NYTimes Magazine: Beauty Fall 2005

DosViolines

far from home...
Joined
Aug 21, 2005
Messages
3,219
Reaction score
12
source: nytimes.com

Shape Shifting
The silhouette this season gets into haute gear.
Photographs by Javier Vallhonrat

16graphic_slide01.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Javier Valhonrat[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Bowed
Alexander Mcqueen silk faille bow dress, $3,290. At Alexander Mcqueen, 417 West 14th street. Neiman Marcus. Ikram, Chicago. Fashion editor: Tiina Laakkonen.[/size][/font]

16graphic_slide02.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Javier Valhonrat[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Latticed
Jean Paul Gaultier silk taffeta pleated-collar trench coat, $3,160. At Barneys New York. Select Nordstrom stores. Beauty note: to achieve a Sophisticated eye, apply Bare Escentuals Bareminerals All-over face color in warmth.[/size][/font]

16graphic_slide03.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Javier Valhonrat[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Curved
Valentino dress, $5,990. At bergdorf Goodman. Saks Fifth Avenue. [/size][/font]

16graphic_slide04.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Javier Valhonrat[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Poufed
Louis Vuitton wool drill bell sleeve fitted jacket, $1,854, and matching straight skirt, $1,070. Go to www.vuitton.com. Beauty note: for glowing skin, layer Shiseido accentuating color stick, in glistening flush and peach flush, from temple to cheekbone. [/size][/font]

16graphic_slide05.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Javier Valhonrat[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Angled
Yves Saint Laurent bouclette wool belted jacket, $2,840, angora wool skirt, $1,135, and patent-leather belt. At Yves Saint Laurent boutiques.[/size][/font]

16graphic_slide06.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Javier Valhonrat[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Twisted
Dior by John Galliano silk vegas dress, $8,395. At select Dior boutiques. Fashion associate: Lindha Jacobsson. Fashion assistant: Anouk Beguery. Hair by Yannick D'Is for Management Artists. Makeup by Alice Ghendrih for Jed Root. Model: Ilona Kuodiene.[/size][/font]
 
source: nytimes.com

Fall's Cast of Characters
This season fashion has compelling new looks.
Photographs by Lee Broomfield

16season_slide01.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Lee Broomfield[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]FRESH
The barely there look ruled the catwalks, from Marc Jacobs to Chloé. Any woman can pull it off, especially if she has nice skin, like the model Cintia Dicker. Start with a good moisturizer, says the makeup artist Romy Soleimani. Then a blush, like L’Oréal Paris True Match Super- Blendable Blush in Subtle Sable. Finish with matte lipstick, like L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Rich Creamy Lipcolour in Nature’s Blush. To keep waves in place, try L’Oréal Paris Studio Line Fast Forward finishing spray. Burberry Prorsum blouse, $570, and cardigan, $690. At select Burberry stores. Fashion editor: Anne Christensen. Hair by Teddy Charles. Makeup by Romy Soleimani/Tim Howard Management[/size][/font]

16season_slide02.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Lee Broomfield[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]POSH
This sophisticated look mixes two big trends: shimmery eyes and a berry pout. Use an eye gloss or a pewter shadow with sparkle like Aveda’s Petal Essence Single Eye Color in Willow. Line and fill in lips with a deep red. But not too dark, says Soleimani, or the vamp aspect will be ‘‘too literal.’’ For a shade like Hye Park’s, try Aveda’s Lip Color Concentrate in Mauve Mantra. For an imperfect updo, finish with a volumizing hairspray like Aveda’s Pure Abundance. The hairstylist Teddy Charles says, ‘‘It can be hard to work with hair when it’s too clean or fine.’’ Ralph Lauren Collection sweater with scarf, $1,098. At select Ralph Lauren stores.[/size][/font]

16season_slide03.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Lee Broomfield[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]POLISHED
Serious mod eyes were winking at Dior and Chanel. But they don’t always translate off the runway. Soleimani suggests a simpler version paired with a pale lip. Apply light blue eye shadow like Fresh Eye Shadow in Ethereal all over the lids and line the eyes with a dark pencil like Fresh Eye Contour in Morel Noir. Finish with Fresh Blush Cream in melancholy Baby, Fresh Lip Shine in Wallflower and mascara. For voluminous hair like Valerie Avdeyeva’s, Charles says to blow it out and tease it at the crown. Fresh Extra Definition Hair Cream gives manageable hold. Dolce & Gabbana dress, $27,500. At Dolce & Gabbana boutiques. Fashion assistant: Melissa Ventosa. Manicurist: Tatyana Molot. Reported by Alexandra Zissu, Anne LeBlanc and Celia Ellenberg.[/size][/font]
 
source: nytimes.com

The Beholders
A portfolio of men and women who pleasure the eye in more ways than one.
Photographs by Robert Maxwell

16originals_slide01.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Robert Maxwell[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Catherine Deneuve[/size][/font][font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1] | Actress[/size][/font]

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Though she did face time for Chanel No. 5 in the early 1980's and had her own fragrance (Deneuve), Catherine Deneuve is more comfortable (and memorable) in the film world - for example, as the sexually adventurous housewife in "Belle de Jour." Beauty gigs, while challenging, have to come second for an actress, she says. Besides, she jokes, "I'm not 20 anymore." Not that she's concerned. Asked why French femmes age better than American women, she unhesitantly replies, "A mature woman in Europe is considered sexually powerful." But we may be catching on: in February, Deneuve appears as the face of MAC Cosmetics[/size][/font]



16originals_slide02.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Robert Maxwell[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Serge Lutens | Fragrance Designer

He may have made a name for himself creating brilliant palettes for Dior cosmetics in the late 60's and for Shiseido in the 90's, but Serge Lutens is equally at peace with less fantastical visions of beauty. In fact, he welcomed the demand of the women's movementfor more freedom - including freedom from cosmetics. "I participated in that revolution, a natural evolution," he says proudly. Lutens is now also a perfumer, and his fragrances use rare ingredients from exotic locales like Morocco, where he lives. This year, he will be launching a new makeup line.

[/size][/font]

16originals_slide03.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Robert Maxwell[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Liya Kebede | Model

In her hometown, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, Liya Kebede was the tall, skinny girl. But today the rest of the world views her quite differently. Ever since Tom Ford hand-picked her to strut the runway for Gucci in 2000, she has had great success, culminating in a contract that has made her Estée Lauder's first spokeswoman of color. "I hope that it inspires others to embrace the beauty in all people," she says. Kebede moonlights as a World Health Organization Goodwill Ambassador for Maternal, Newborn and Child Health - and as a mother of two.

[/size][/font]

16originals_slide04.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Robert Maxwell[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Oribe | hairdresser[/size][/font]

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]As the man responsible for giving Jenny (from the block) the smooth, honey-brown locks that transformed her into Jennifer Lopez (the empire), Oribe Canales has earned his one-name moniker. The first American hairdresser to work the couture shows in Paris, Oribe cultivated his scissor skills on troll dolls that he had as a child and honed them in the 80's and 90's on the likes of Linda, Naomi and Christy. Besides flying all over the world for shoots and tending to his Miami salon, he is something of a beauty philosopher. "Most women," he says, "look good in false eyelashes, big hair and high heels."[?][?][?]Interviews by Celia Ellenberg and Alexandra Zissu.[/size][/font]
 
source: nytimes.com

The Camera in Love

By A. A. GILL
Published: October 16, 2005


From an industry whose apogee is an acceptance speech of sentimental blather, there is an old, fondly persistent cliché that says the camera has favorites. It loves certain faces, women's faces, like a leering Lothario, an Arriflex Alfie. There is a testosterone ghost in the machine.

The thing I was most often told about Keira Knightley was that the camera worshiped her, loved her to distraction. It moped inside when it wasn't filled with her, but its clockwork heart went tic-a-tic-a-tic when it had Knightley in its gate. It's nonsense, of course. A camera doesn't love your face any more than a bicycle seat loves your bottom or the washing machine despises your underwear. The truth is more obvious and prosaic: it's cameramen who like women's faces; it's directors who are wide-eyed for Keira Knightley.

In "Pride and Prejudice," the latest movie version of the Jane Austen classic, out next month, the camera follows her around like a besotted puppy. It flings itself out of windows and over furniture and through walls just to be close to her. When she's not there, it frantically rushes around whimpering, sliding off the rest of the cast in anticipation, and when it finally gets her on the sofa or backs her into a corner, it just licks her all over, in an ecstasy of devotion.

I am late for our lunch. When I get to Le Caprice in St. James's in London, the maître d' gives me a disapproving look and whispers that she has already been there for two whole minutes. They've lowered the blinds behind her. Outside the paparazzi are beginning to gather like Hitchcock crows.

I apologize. Knightley says it couldn't matter less. And then I take a proper look at her, and it comes as a bit of a shock - she is radiantly beautiful. I'd been girded for pretty, young, handsome, sexy, attractive, nubile, lithesome, toothsome even - and the face has all that - but all of it is concocted to a recipe that is really, rarely singularly beautiful. And it's sort of unexpected.

Are you eating?

"I'm starving."

One course or two?

"Three" - gazpacho and risotto, then Eton mess (meringue, strawberries and sugar).

She already has the practiced and teasing trick of deflecting and pre-empting inquiry by asking me questions.

"Where have you been? Oh, to your tailor - how wonderful. I'd love to have things made. What's it like?"

Reluctantly I drag the conversation back to her. Do you mind talking about being beautiful?

"Oh, no, it's sort of why I'm here."

It's just that a lot of actors are touchy about their good looks. They think it trivializes their massive talents.

"It's an awful lot of what this business is about, especially if you're a girl. And it can make you very insecure when so much concentration and expectation is staring you in the face. I can look into a mirror and tear my looks to bits. I know there are dozens of things wrong with me."

Like what, for instance?

"Well, when I smile at certain angles, I can look like I've got a broken nose like a boxer."

Oh, puh-leeze. Cut! Knightley's doing her Mike Tyson impression. And she laughs, just to show me.

As a general rule of grin, the beautiful don't have beautiful smiles. Nice smiles are God's consolation for plain faces, except of course that Knightley has a very lovely, utterly unpugilistic, melting smile that makes her look very young. She's just 20, but she has been acting professionally since she was 9. However, it was the appearance of her undulating abs in "Bend It Like Beckham" that kicked off her career.

Her role as Lizzy in "Pride and Predjudice" is an infinitely more assured, subtle performance. Believable, thoughtful, poignant and empathetic. It lays to rest that other Hollywood shibboleth: if the camera loves you, then the script is probably not talking to you. Acting has been a cram course for Knightley, all of it done, unforgivingly, in close-up, 20 feet by 10 feet, in public.

"I know to do less now and that there are things you can do on-screen that would look weird in real life, but what I like best about acting and film is working with directors. I like being inside their heads. Did you like 'Pride and Prejudice'?"


Yes and no. I liked her in it, but it's a loathsome story. In my mind, a 15-year-old girl is abducted and raped by a oldier, and her family pays him to marry her. It's all about selling your useless female children.

"Oh, I suppose so. But isn't that the way it was?"

Perhaps, but Austen wrote it as satire; the movies are always just romance.

"But don't you think that Darcy is a wonderful character?"

He's a snotty prig who for no discernible reason becomes an embarrassing drip. She gives me the 100-watt raging-bull smile.

"It's a girl thing - we think he's wonderful, hard, then soft."

Do you really fall for that stuff?

"Of course, every time."

Knightley asked her mother if she could have an agent when she was 3. She read scripts instead of books as a way of overcoming her dyslexia. Both her parents work in the theater, and she has the movie star's touching reverence for stage acting. "That's what I would really like to do."

There are quite a lot of things that Knightley has missed out on since being married off to a camera so young. She's not had a proper holiday.

"I never got that gap year that all my friends had. I'd really like to travel."

Where?

"I don't know. Around Europe with a rucksack."

She has her own London apartment, which she loves but rarely has time to stay in. After shooting "Pride and Prejudice," there was Tony Scott's "Domino," and now she's filming the second and third parts of "Pirates of the Caribbean," or "Pirates of the Penzance," as my editor inadvertently called it.

"Wouldn't it be lovely if it were 'Pirates of the Penzance'?" Knightley says wistfully.

There is no rest for the beautiful. Do you have a lot of friends in the business?

"No, it's not a friendly industry. I know a lot of people, and I like most of them, but not friends. Not really."

We leave the restaurant by different routes, I through the front door, she through the kitchen and down into the basement garage, where a darkened limousine waits to speed Knightley past the flock of photographers. As we stand making our farewells, I notice that the whole room has fallen silent, stopped midmouthful. The Caprice is a tough place to impress. It gets three or four stars a sitting. With the couples, the waiters, the barmen, the coat check, the flower display, the bottles, the tables and the chairs all staring at Knightley with little, soppy, blissed-out smiles, it's like being out with Snow White.

I expect a brace of bluebirds and singing dwarves at any moment.



16keira_slide01.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Raymond Meier[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Gucci Dress with Sequin Embroidery. Tiffany & Company Swing Diamond Necklace with Pavé Diamond Heart Bracelet, and Lace Diamond Brooch (all attached). Fred Leighton 19th-Century Diamond Arrow Brooch. [/size][/font]

16keira_slide02.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Raymond Meier[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Beauty Note: For eyes as expressive as Knightley’s, apply Lancôme’s Artliner Precision Point Eyeliner in Noir, Le Crayon Khôl in Black Ebony and Colour Focus in Darkroom. Finish With L’Extrême Lengthening Mascara in black. Fashion Editor: Tiina Laakkonen. Fashion Associate: Lindha Jacobsson. Fashion Assistant: Anouk Beguery. Hair by Dai Michishita for India New York. Makeup by Fulvia Farolfi. [/size][/font]

16keira_slide03.jpg

[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Raymond Meier[/size][/font]
spacer.gif
[font=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][size=-1]Dolce & Gabbana Swarovski Crystal Dress. Giles & Brother Silver Chain with Heart Lock. Cartier Diamond Pendant On Platinum Chain. Fred Leighton 19th-Century Star Earring (On Necklace). [/size][/font]
 
thanks for posting! id love to read that issue love that shot of Liya!
 
thank you so much for posting all of this!! those first photos are fantastic, but i wouldnt expect less from such an amazing team...

keira looks great too, those photos are beautiful :flower:
 
gorgeous the ed of Javier Vallhonrat i liked muchh:wink:
 
thanks for posting, violines.
i'm stealing the valhonrat images for 'his' thread.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

New Posts

Forum Statistics

Threads
210,723
Messages
15,125,164
Members
84,423
Latest member
Figedifug
Back
Top
monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"
<-- Admiral -->