The Business of Magazines

source | nytimes


The only thing missing is “style.” The new Los Angeles Times Magazine;
T’s women’s fashion issue.


Magazines | Seeing Double

By Jonathan S. Paul

West Coast magazines have bitten our style before. And last weekend a rival New York newspaper introduced a glossy that people have attempted to compare to T (as if). Now this: the newly made-over Los Angeles Times Magazine has arrived, and we’ve got to say that the logo looks awfully familiar. (Rip Georges, the magazine’s creative director, says any resemblance is “utterly coincidental” — he’s more inspired by Mister Cartoon’s tattoos than T.) Fair enough, but we’ll still take it as a compliment.
 
I read Toby Young's book & I'm looking forward to the movie.

Getting ousted from Vanity Fair becomes a career.

Q&A: Toby Young

by Irin Carmon
Posted Friday September 12, 2008



Toby Young


Jeff Bridges as Graydon Carter

Just behind Toby Young’s shtick of describing himself as “loud, pushy and obnoxious, prone to committing faux pas” is the fact that all of it is still a way for Young to talk about himself — and hope others do, too. The gambit’s relative success in keeping Young in the public eye is partially because his book, “How to Lose Friends and Alienate People,” was a glimpse into rarefied circles of Manhattan media in the late Nineties, long before “The Devil Wears Prada” and daily blog posts about Graydon Carter and Anna Wintour. The long-talked-about film version of the book, starring Simon Pegg as Young, Kirsten Dunst as the love interest and Jeff Bridges in the Carter role, will be released in October. WWD caught up with Young at, naturally, Soho House to compare then and now.

WWD:
The movie is set vaguely in the present time, but your book seemed very specifically about what it was like in New York in the Nineties. If you were going to come to New York now, how would the story be different?

Toby Young: I think it’s probably tougher to make it here now than it was 13 years ago, particularly in the print media. I don’t envy young Brits crossing the Atlantic to make their fortunes today….Probably the difference is I’d rent somewhere in Brooklyn rather than in the West Village. I probably wouldn’t be working for Vanity Fair, I’d probably be working as Nick Denton’s slave at Gawker and being paid nothing. I’d probably be sleeping on Euan Rellie’s floor.

Everyone said to me growing up, “You’re like an American. You have to go to America. That’s your spiritual home.” I was every Londoner’s stereotypical idea of a brash, vulgar American. When I got here, it turned out that London was the Wild West, and New York was like London at the height of the Victorian era, in which everyone was far more obsessed with table manners and status-climbing than they are in London. In London, everyone was just crawling over this blizzard of cocaine. Here, if you have more than a glass of wine with your meal, people refer you to Alcoholics Anonymous.

When I was working at Vanity Fair, publicists like Pat Kingsley had enormous ability to almost entirely control what was written about her clients….[She had] the ability to dictate to Vanity Fair more or less exactly how her clients were covered in the magazine. I think that the power of the publicists like Pat Kingsley has certainly been diminished by the growth of Web sites like Gawker, TMZ. Publicists now can only control a fairly small part of the media, and not necessarily the most important part. If a story breaks about Tom Cruise on TMZ, that’s going to hit the national media instantly, and it doesn’t really matter who the photographer is for the forthcoming cover story on Tom Cruise in Vanity Fair.

WWD:
And yet the movie operates under the assumption that these people are as powerful as ever.

T.Y.: I think that magazines like Vanity Fair are still operating under the old rules, and that if you come to work for a magazine like Vanity Fair, even today, you’re certainly expected to treat people like Peggy Siegal very deferentially.

WWD: Have you been to the Waverly Inn?

T.Y.: No.

WWD: Do you want to go?

T.Y.: Graydon was quoted saying that there’s a height requirement.

WWD: Have you spoken to him at all?

T.Y.: No….I’m going to invite him to the premiere and I hope he comes, and if he does, I’ll shake his hand and say thank you. I think when he sees the film he’ll be pleasantly surprised. But actually, the portrait of him in my book is fairly affectionate. And I don’t think he minded that. When I initially showed it to him, he thought it was quite funny and offered to throw me a book party in New York. I think at that stage he thought it would never be published.

[Graydon] was asked who he wanted to play him, and he suggested that Verne Troyer play me….I think insofar as he is a bit cranky about the book and the film, it’s because they aren’t things that he can control. It’s someone else out there, defining him. I don’t think it’s because the portrait of him in either the book or the film is negative. I think it’s because it’s unauthorized. I mean, he once described the book as an unauthorized biography of him.

WWD: Somebody at Vanity Fair told me they thought it was remarkable that Toby Young had managed to make his entire career out of nine months at Vanity Fair.

T.Y.: Graydon once reduced it to two weeks. I remember being interviewed by The New York Times, and the fact-checker called me because they simply could not believe my claim that I had worked there for two-and-a-half years. I actually had to fax them my employment contracts….I certainly got a lot of mileage about the book, but the book is not just about working at Vanity Fair. It’s about the five years spent in New York. And to the extent that I’ve been energetic about promoting the book and that it’s become a movie, well, that’s what you dream about happening. If the film becomes a huge success, I guess I’ll be accused even more of living off my short stint at Vanity Fair, but I think that comes with the territory.


Graydon Responds (via e-mail) :lol:


WWD: Have you seen the movie? If not, will you see it or attend the premiere, to which Toby said he’ll invite you?

Graydon Carter: I’m not sure of the date of the premiere, but I believe I have a previous engagement.

WWD: How do you feel about Jeff Bridges playing you?

G.C.: I was hoping for someone with a more developed pectoral region and more chiseled features for the part of the editor. But in a pinch, Jeff will just have to do.

WWD: Toby says you once described the book as an unauthorized biography of you. Is that true? And how accurate of a portrait did you find it?

G.C.: As a fictional work of nonfiction, the book has few peers.

WWD: The movie and, to some extent, the book portray a magazine that is under the thumb of celebrity publicists who first police access to the stars and then actually approve copy. How close is that to Vanity Fair’s reality?

G.C.: Plus, the publicists have to assign and edit the stories, and tell us how they like their coffee. The really good ones sell advertising, too.
 
Well-connected British 'loser' who always falls on his feet, makes roaring success out of continuing to play the loser. It was amusing when I read the book, but all this self-publicising irony isn't funny, it's an old pose - I wish he'd get on with something else instead of beating the same old drum, in terms of his big writing projects.

Graydon Carter must love it that he's finally made it into the movies, can't let Anna have all the glory.
 
It's my first time to see this thread, I like it so much, Thank you MissMagAddict and any one who post in this thread, I love style magazine and interesting in magazine business too(but I'm art-dealer).
When I have a trip to New York or London I never miss to buy the Saturday or Sunday newspapers for their glossy supplement, last trip in New York the same week of Fashion week, I went to some show with my friend who was fashion editor in Thailand glossy magazine( her colleague skip the show), I quite exited with all the glossy supplements that I can pick up for free in the Tent at Bryant Park even you walk by in front of the Tent they'll give you some copy of the Daily, ‘New York LOOK’ so amazing, It's my bedtime reading till today, T magazine(Men's fashion Fall) is great and I love ‘Fashion Week Daily magazine’ most (you can load pdf file at www.fashionweekdaily.com). Even early in the morning at the Subway station you can pick up a free copy of ‘Am New York’ newspaper (load pdf file at www.amny.com), that have the section about Fashion Show everyday in that week,WWD (for free ,newsstand price is 3 dollars) or when you take taxi,the TV mornitor show channel NY1 and they have news about the fashion show, I feel like at that week New Yorker breath with fashion and make all the city more energetically. This the reason I like New York Fashion Week more than Paris Fashion Week, I know many best designs are in Paris.
but the atmostphere of the city I think New York have more attractive because fashion comunicate with you everywhere. cause I don't know French but I think in Paris they don't have glossy supplement about fashion in Fashion week as much as New York .
 
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About ‘the post no.# 111 Fashion 2.0 | Top 10 Online Fashion Magazines.’

Thank you MissMagAddict for this post I have new website about style and fashion to enjoy.
 
^Thank you A.leean & welcome to tFS! I'm pleased to know that you are enjoying what you have found in the thread.

:flower:
 
I am looking forward to the movie, and thanks for the interview i especially enjoyed Gordon's anwsers, hahah.
 
Thanks for the interview. Great answers, very amusing! Definitely looking forward to the movie.
 
source | mediabistro

The Cult of Wintour Is Strong With This One

While other teen magazines struggle (CosmoGirl down 10.7 percent, J-14 down 8.5 percent, Seventeen down 5.7 percent) Teen Vogue soldiers on (despite occasional rumors of its shuttering).

Starting in February 2009, the magazine will increase its rate base from 950,000 to 1,000,000, up 122 percent from its launch six years ago. During the first half of 2008, TV overdelivered by 7 percent, prompting the raise.

But what about the ad pages?

After they increased almost two percent in 2007, Teen Vogue has seen them jump 4.5 percent in the first half of 2008 (517.81 vs. 495.39), while revenue is up 15 percent (51,477,690 vs. 44,763,807). Compare this with industry-wide sales that are down 7.4 percent so far in 2008 and the fact that teen mags saw a decline of 4.5 percent over the same period (which includes TV's gain) and you have a magazine doing pretty well.

The Vogue brand, presumably with an assist from the publishing force that is Conde Nast, continues to mint money. (Although Men's Vogue is another case.)

Conclusions: Anna Wintour has some life left in her and the rumors of Teen Vogue's demise are greatly exaggerated.
 
Completely by accident, I've found circulation figures for individual issues of UK Vogue, as officially released by Conde Nast (so who knows if they're 100% true or slightly massaged in some way:(

The 'post reply' box won't let me format these figures in any decent-looking way, mods, help out!

VOGUE Total Circulation Total Active Sales
Feb-08 227,121 223,838
Mar-08 234,058 230,705
Apr-08 216,319 212,874
May-08 216,885 213,377
Jun-08 216,252 212,649
Jul-08 215,901 212,941
Average 221,090 217,731

Source: http://www.condenast.co.uk/circulation-data/
 
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^That's amazing Yohan went bankrupt & so quickly! Kinokuniya will take over now I suppose. They offer great incentives if you subscribe via them. I'm lucky we have a Kinokuniya in the city I live in & I get all my Japanese magazines there.

Thanks for posting the link tigerrouge :flower:
 
Confirmed: Katie Grand to Condé Nast

Source | UK Vogue

Grand's Plan

01 October 2008, 01:33PM

SUPER-STYLIST and original Popette Katie Grand is joining Condé Nast - the publisher of Vogue, Glamour and GQ - to launch an unmissable new biannual style magazine.

With the title yet to be revealed, we can confirm that the tome will be as edgy and experimental as one should expect from one with a fashion calibre as impressive as Grand's; this will be the fourth magazine she has launched (with the debut of Pop in 2000 perhaps the one for which she is best known), and her CV boasts styling stints for the likes of Prada and Louis Vuitton.

"I can't wait to get started," she says of her the venture. "I feel the time is ready for a new magazine, a new arena for new ideas. This time we'll have a larger format, bigger budgets and broader horizons than ever before. With the wholehearted support of Condé Nast, there will be nothing to limit our imagination."

Comments Nicholas Coleridge, managing director of Condé Nast: "It is a new departure for Condé Nast UK to publish an edgy, high-end style title in this sector, and in Katie Grand we have the perfect Editor who brings the perfect team. This promises to be a very exciting launch."

The first issue is due to hit newsstands in March.
 
^ :woot:

Can you tell me which magazines she's started before? :unsure:
 

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