The World of Fashion Critics

Discussion in 'Fashion... In Depth' started by BerlinRocks, Jun 28, 2009.

  1. BerlinRocks

    BerlinRocks New Member

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    I don't know if this is worth opening a thread ...
    - couldn't find any interesting title, any mod with litterature skills can edit it !
    ;)


    I opened this thread just for this
    - I don't know if this has already been posted somewhere or not :

    NY Times

    The rest of this thread could a place where people share their opinions, informations about Fashion journalists and critics ...
     
  2. mikeijames

    mikeijames no tom ford, no thanks.

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    i do believe that some fashion journalists have agendas and believe themselves to be some sort of divine oracles. it's fifty times easier to find something negative to say about a collection than to write something positive. especially in america, we have an obsession with building people up only to sell papers and get ratings when it's time to tear them down.

    i love the new york times and cathy horyn remains an outstanding writer, but she does cross that line many times into commentary that's uncalled for. i truly admire suzy menkes, but i feel that she has a very specific vision for how women should or should not dress; she judges shows with a very small lens that doesn't always comport with the way real women actual dress.

    on the complete flip side, i think the way that ediatrix anna wintour and her crew judge shows remains the model by which other should follow. if it's a good show, talk about it, photograph it, push the look. if it's bad, simply omit it. to get left out of the pages of vogue seems to hurt far more than a negative sentence would and it leaves the personalities and the grudges out of it.
     
  3. BerlinRocks

    BerlinRocks New Member

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    funny you say that, because i did think about this yesterday while i read comments on TFS - and was writing one, that i didn't post in the end ....

    imo Horyn is great critic, but too often she writes her columns 'sur un coup de tête' ...
    and that one problem with fashion critics during FW .... You see tons of shows in a very short period of time. Sometimes you're tired (and tired of seeing the same stuff over and over again), so once it came to a big label you can totaly lose your mind and be mean because you didn't take too much time to focus and think about it.

    the whole problem in fashion critics is TIME !

    I think they should rethink it ...
    Those newspaper critics are very different from the style.com ones - where sarah and tim only copy/paster the press file and s*** designers ...
     
  4. mikeijames

    mikeijames no tom ford, no thanks.

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    i don't think the issue is time. i think the issue is that some newspaper critics -- not just in fashion -- have made up their minds before they even sit down to a show. perhaps they have three quarters of their review written before they even see it and just plug in a couple of details from the actual show to make it real....who knows? however, i think many newspaper critics have lost credibility because they frequently pan things that are cultural sensations.

    i won't even read a newspaper review of a film before i go see it. ditto a book from my favorite authors.
     
  5. Squizree

    Squizree Looking Up

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    A lot of critics are biased depending on their personal view on style and beauty and their vision on the "perfect woman". And dont get me wrong sometimes I love hearing about other people's opinion on what a woman should look like, such as Suzy Menkes. She has such a focussed image in her mind and anything that falls short of this image instantly becomes questionable for her. At the same time this is a really bad thing. Narrow mindedness becomes irritating and makes the critic sound like a complete bitch.

    BUT that being said I like reviews that are inclined to one side rather than neutral most of the time, because you learn much more about a collection that way.

    Im getting sick of critics who just suck up to everyone and just want to keep everyone happy.
     
  6. BerlinRocks

    BerlinRocks New Member

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    critics are not really journalists .... they don't only 'review' things, they give their opinions regarding past and future and present ... it belongs to 'personnal opinions' imo ....

    the problem atm, imo, is blogging (and then TIME and SPEED) ...
    because of blogs and internet, fashion critics have to write very quickly because (i guess) they have pressure from their superiors ... So they write on first sight before thinking more than 30sec. about it ...

    The whole problem stands there.

    Blogging sort of installed a sort of "fashion critics crisis" ....
     
  7. gius

    gius chat~

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    i often just skim through articles by these critics/writers.. i think they are better and more useful to other people (readers, designers and fashion enthusiasts/consumers alike) if they are able to describe the designer's vision and collection's story..so that others can maybe understand the reasons behind it or find a different way of appreciating it, sharing ideas... i could care less about their actual opinion. everybody can develop their own.
     
  8. Squizree

    Squizree Looking Up

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    ^The problem is some critics dont know the story or the purpose of the collection and end up writing something really bullsh!t.
     
  9. gius

    gius chat~

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    that's what i dont like about so many of the 'blogs' out there.. almost writing for the sake of writing.. so Horin and Menkes are usually up on my list in that case B) (and there seem to be a bunch of other writers i find at IHT.) it's what separates a great review from the meaningless sea of others. many times there isn't even any reasoning to back up a person's opinion in one of these blogs, which is even more pointless.
     
    #9 gius, Jun 28, 2009
    Last edited by moderator : Jun 28, 2009
  10. Squizree

    Squizree Looking Up

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    ^ Very few bloggers actually see the true meaning of fashion. Most of them just look at collections and categorise them into either Sexy, Elegant or Cute, which is SUCH an....uneducated way to define a collection, very inadequate. Very few blogger actually look at a collection and compare it to previous collections and designers and refer to certain historical inspirations and manage to filter meaningful conclusions about collections' personalities and moods. Its so frustrating.....sifting through useless blogs over and over again.
     
  11. iluvjeisa

    iluvjeisa clever ain't wise

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    I find most fashion critics very predictable. I read it mostly to hear something about the references cited as important for the collection.
     
  12. Spike413

    Spike413 barcode

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    Horyn is really one of the only fashion critics I pay any attention to. I think it's mostly that there is a sense of honesty to her reviews. They're blunt, sometimes painfully so, but I find that she's good at not going on a power trip and simply ripping a collection apart for the sake of ripping it apart. Her criticisms are thoughtful.

    It also helps that she has a blog, and usually posts about the collections within the same day they're shown. I check On The Runway at least twice a day during fashion week.
     
  13. Squizree

    Squizree Looking Up

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    ^Whats her blog Spike?
     
  14. Spike413

    Spike413 barcode

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  15. Squizree

    Squizree Looking Up

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    Thanks heaps Spike. I like seeing her in videos after fashion shows to hear what she has to say. The thing I like about her is that her analysis is usually detailed with a good explanation.
     
  16. Spike413

    Spike413 barcode

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    ^ That's what I like about her as well. Even when I don't agree with her take on a collection, she presents her opinion well enough that I can usually admit that her criticism is valid.
     
  17. Pastry

    Pastry New Member

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    Cathy Horyn is an exceptional fashion journalist.
    She is a good writer. Her writing is clear in style and intellectually stimulating.
    She has a very good grasp on the current political and social situation, which obviously helps her construct very thought-provoking reviews.

    The quality I admire the most in her reviews, though, is her ability to look at every situation "correctly". She has said it before herself. Every collection, depending on the situation of the brand, receives a different kind of scrutiny.

    Another excellent skills she has as a "fashion critic" is to be able to recognize and understand good DESIGN, in a world, where fashion blogs focus on instantly desirable clothes.
     
    #17 Pastry, Jun 29, 2009
    Last edited by moderator : Jun 29, 2009
  18. Pastry

    Pastry New Member

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    ....Tim Blanks is another individual who makes very very valid points and has the ability to gain insight into the psychology of a collection. He either takes the words right out of your mouth, or lays out the facts so beatifully, you're left feeling lame.
     
  19. Squizree

    Squizree Looking Up

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    ^ :lol: To me this has ALWAYS what distinguishes between good and bad fashion critics.
     
  20. mikeijames

    mikeijames no tom ford, no thanks.

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    i cannot agree more. tim blanks also alerts the viewer to some of the other things going on at the house -- historically and in the moment -- that inform the collection. his coverage of the balenciaga spring 2003 collection and his interpretation of the scuba experience as something erotic made me look at that collection IN A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT LIGHT than i ever would have on my own. that's criticism at its height.

    simply saying something to the effect of "carolina herrera is irrelevant" is criticism at its lowest ebb. i mean, we can say that here as a gut reaction, but i'm sorry, i expect more from a new york times columnist who has sat through her show. like, why say anything at all?
     

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