Daniel Lee - Designer, Creative Director of Burberry

[dodencebt]

After 17 years, Tomas Maier is leaving Bottega Veneta."It's largely due to Tomas's high-level creative demands that Bottega Veneta became the House it is today. He put it back on the luxury scene and made it an undisputed reference. With his creative vision, he magnificently showcased the expertise of the House’s artisans. I am deeply grateful to him and I personally thank him for the work he accomplished, and for the exceptional success he helped to achieve," said François-Henri Pinault, head of parent company Kering.

wwd.com

 

[embrionar]

Nooooo.. That is such sad news...

 

[Lola701]

Finally.
It was about time...
Of course like all the others «*Tom Ford’s camp designers*», he was fired because of slow sales.

The Pinault can finally have the group modeled to their wants and I guess it will be a mess oriented towards instant success.

 

[Yohji]

That's sad. Amidst the designer musical chairs, it was particularly refreshing to see him quietly do his own thing.

 

[GERGIN]

Hey Phoebe...we have a job for you!

 

[dodencebt]

According to Vanessa Friedman from the New York Times, Maier is leaving effective immediately and he won't be doing the September show.

This must have caught all journalists off guard because there are no pre-prepared articles about his tenure, more information about him leaving, business analysis and speculations for the future. These things are always known a bit in advance, I haven't seen such scarce reporting in years.

 

[Marc10]

I saw it coming. He was really in that fase of a designer's tenure when you're just burned out, nothing left to say, just phoning in.

He's a great designer tho, hope to see him making great clothes again soon somewhere else.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

That took longer than I expected... I am surprised it seems to have happened suddenly with him leaving immediately always knew his days were numberedd but thought they would have had a more harmonious transition.

 

[orchidee]

Not surprising, but certainly disappointing. He hasn't produced a collection of note in a few years now and he probably needs a break to refresh his point of view.

 

[mathiaskatz]

Bottega Veneta would have been long dead without Maier. Will be looking forward to his future.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

There comes a time when a designer has to move on. He had a good run, unfortunately he had nothing left to say these past few years. He let sales overtake his creativity and vision. At his peak he produced luxurious artisanal clothing that was undeniably chic and very Italian. He dropped the ball after he combined Menswear with Womenswear. Both were very individual and fabulous on their own, but it was obvious that he wasn't giving them the attention they needed. Now would be the perfect time for Stefano Pilati or Frida to get back into the game.

 

[Fiercification]

Sad! Yes, recent collections were somewhat forgettable but he's produced so many great ones over the last decade and a half (just great clothes in general!)

Hope to see him pop up again somewhere soon...but the talent in fashion seems to be fading into the background these days and perhaps understandably not reappearing.

 

[Benn98]

As Tomas Maier Departs, What's Next for Bottega Veneta

Maier transformed the ‘stealth wealth’ label into a billion-dollar brand, only to see sales slow. Parent company Kering is set to announce a new designer imminently, say sources.

By Chantal Fernandez
June 13, 2018 17:44

MILAN, Italy — Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier is stepping down from the Kering-owned luxury brand, which came to embody the concept of "stealth wealth" during his 17-year tenure. An announcement of his successor is expected imminently.

"It's largely due to Tomas's high-level creative demands that Bottega Veneta became the house it is today. He put it back on the luxury scene and made it an undisputed reference," said François-Henri Pinault, chief executive and chairman of Kering. "I am deeply grateful to him and I personally thank him for the work he accomplished, and for the exceptional success he helped to achieve."

The German designer was named the creative director of the Italian leather goods maker in 2001 after Tom Ford, then creative director of Gucci and Saint Laurent, enlisted Maier to lead the brand and bring it out of debt and obscurity. Under Maier, Bottega Veneta grew at a rapid pace, surpassing $1 billion in sales by 2012. It became, at the time, Kering’s fastest-growing label and second-largest after Gucci, while still managing to maintain its signature sense of luxury and exclusivity. In 2013, Kering invested in Maier’s namesake brand, which he founded in 1997.

But in recent years, Bottega Veneta has failed to keep growing and its profits have taken a hit. Sales started slowing in 2015 and then dropped 9 percent to €1.173 million ($1.4 billion) in 2016. Leadership cited decreased tourism to Europe as a factor and while Asia accounts for about 40 percent of overall sales, the recent growth other luxury brands have seen in that continent was not enough to offset the slowdown. Revenue growth was essentially flat again in 2017.

It’s unclear how this will impact Kering’s relationship with Tomas Maier, the brand. Representatives for the conglomerate declined to comment. In July 2017, Kering's head of Americas Laurent Claquin added the role of the brand's chief executive officer to his duties.

When former Hugo Boss executive Claus-Dietrich Lahrs was named chief executive of Bottega Veneta in October 2016 — succeeding Carlo Alberto Beretta, who went on to become the chief client and marketing officer at Kering before stepping down last year — he emphasised the need to invest in the existing stores and diversify the brand's category product offering. About 85 percent of Bottega Veneta sales come from leather goods: quiet, logo-less handbags that stand in contrast to the maximalist and label-heavy era ushered in by Gucci and the growing streetwear movement in the last three years.

Since Lahrs' arrival, Bottega Veneta has made attempts to increase its relevance through various marketing efforts. When it celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2016, it re-released a clutch made famous by actress Lauren Hutton in the 1980 film "American Gigolo," bringing her on as a brand ambassador. More recently, it experimented with pop-ups shops in Los Angeles and New York, and shook up its runway show format in February when it took over New York's Stock Exchange building during New York Fashion Week with a theatrical installation.

But in recent seasons, Maier’s subtle and sensual ready-to-wear collections were often met with lukewarm reactions from critics and, more importantly, did not appear to generate excitement and a sense of newness for luxury consumers who rush to buy Balenciaga's sneakers and menswear, turning it into Kering’s fastest-growing brand. While other "stealth wealth" luxury brands, including Hermès and The Row, continue to experience success despite the prevalence of maximalism in the market, Bottega Veneta has been unable to tap into the current zeitgeist.

While Kering has varied in its approach to hiring creative directors — promoting a long-time designer at Gucci, bringing in a buzzy young name at Balenciaga — the company has reaped the benefits of enlisting designers with strong, youth-driven visions and the talent to shake up a brand. Their collections have appealed to both established luxury consumers and young millennials in Asia.

A feel for handbags will also be essential for Bottega Veneta, bringing another high-profile name to mind; Phoebe Philo, who left Celine about six months ago. "Phoebe has proven to be exceptionally talented when it comes to creating blockbuster high-end handbag styles," Luca Solca, head of luxury goods at Exane BNP Paribas, told BoF when she exited. "With their icons seemingly tired, both Chanel and Bottega Veneta would need that capability."

Source: Businessoffashion.com

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Now would be the perfect time for Stefano Pilati or Frida to get back into the game.

I just remembered that things did not end well for Frida or Stefano, whoops. A few people have bringing up Phoebe Philo. Whoever takes his place should have a keen eye for bags.

 

[Lola701]

Only BOF can dare to put The Row alongside Hermes...Please!

Phoebe will not return now (even if she wanted it would it impossible considering the non-compete agreement of 1 year).
I think Kering will as usual go for the unknown person maybe but if they wants a star designer, they should try to convince Alber.

I don't think that Frida, Stefano or even Facchinetti would ever go back to Kering.

He could be the Margiela/Gaultier of BV because he knows the lifestyle and the desire of that wealthy clientele and a brand like that needs some Glamour.

Whoever they choose, please bring some glamour! Pagliangula if he go back to his Vionnet days could be perfect.

 

[TaylorBinque]

Maier was a quiet force in a very loud world and that what makes me really appreciate him. I wish him the best. My only hope is that they don't ruin this brand with some street style nonsense. We need at least a house with class, elegance and luxury.

 

[kasper!]

Only BOF can dare to put The Row alongside Hermes...Please!

Yes it bugs me also.All those random articles from C-list journalists...They just should hire someone like Bridget Foley. They still look like an advanced version of fashionista.

I will miss Mr Maier. He always produces the most beautiful ads

 

[TaylorBinque]

Bottega Veneta Names New Creative Director
The British designer, who was most recently director of ready-to-wear at Céline, begins July 1.

MILAN, Italy — Bottega Veneta has appointed Daniel Lee its new creative director. He succeeds Tomas Maier, who stepped down on Wednesday after 17 years in the role.

Lee, who was most recently director of ready-to-wear at Céline, begins in the position on July 1.

"Daniel Lee has a deep understanding of the house’s current challenges, both in terms of creation and development," said Bottega Veneta's chief executive Claus Dietrich Lahrs. "He will bring to Bottega Veneta a new and distinctive creative language that will continue building the house's success based on the ambitious foundations already developed over recent years."

"The singularity of [Lee's] vision, inspired by a very personal creative approach, convinced me that he was best able to open a new chapter in the history of the House. His work is characterised by great rigour, a mastery of studio expertise, a true passion for materials and an energy that I cannot wait to see take shape at Bottega Veneta," added François-Henri Pinault, chief executive and chairman of Kering.

via Business of Fashion

 

[Melancholybaby]

Hello there.

Glad to see they didn't go for a hyped, streetwear name. I guess they'll continue going for the quietly luxurious, minimalist approach they're known for.

 

[Marc10]

I had a feeling that Phoebe's team would be snatching big jobs left and right, a la Nicola's team.

Hope he does well!