Daniel Lee - Designer, Creative Director of Burberry

[Lola701]

Ahaha Snatching people from the LVMH camp!
Yes, best news at Kering for years.

 

[dodencebt]

If he’s as talented on his own as he is handsome, he’ll do just fine. I can’t wait to see what direction he takes the brand in, it’s going to be exciting.

 

[fashionista-ta]

I heard this news at Celine today, but when I heard the name, I wasn't expecting a guy with freckles I'm excited that this could become clothes for actual women ... something in tremendously short supply with Alber and Phoebe not working.

 

[fonghay]

It's bound to happen if they are working under Hedi Slimane
Looking forward to rejuvenated BV.

 

[Phuel]

Always been quietly in love with the menswear, mixing it with Neil Barrett, OG Helmut, 2000-era Lanvin, and Hedi’s Dior Homme pieces seamlessly. The suits and suede pieces are my favs, and the fuller pants are perfection.

Hope this new guy doesn’t revise the menswear into overpriced boyswear basics with logo-OD and stupid gimmicky prints, like most labels these days. God I loath prints in menswear.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ I don't think the logo issue can possibly happen, since the no-logo thing ("When your own initials are enough") is the most essential part of their DNA.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ I’ve no confidence in the current dumbed down fashion era. When we’re at a state when even Miuccia is plastering tacky/ugly logos on every single item of clothing to be down with the kidz; and logos prominently displayed even in her mainline campaigns to rival knock-offs— it’s so hard to have any confidence that restraint will remain an objective for any label, anymore.

And after what they did to Lanvin— I admire your optimism, babe.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ LOL ... I better be right.

I'd like to believe that the big conglomerates are a bit brighter and more pragmatic than Madame Wang, but ... we'll see.

 

[perhydrol]

^^But literally they don't even have a proper logo to begin with, just because their name itself is registered. And don't forget that his approach at Céline was way more intellectual than the whole streetwear thing.

My only fear here is he wouldn't be able to live up to the suits' expectations due to the fact that they could have thought that he can transform BV into something close to Philo's Céline.

 

[dodencebt]

Tomas Maier Brand to Cease Operations

PARIS — Kering is to end its partnership with Tomas Maier in his signature brand, and cease its business operations, WWD has learned.

The development comes a few weeks after Maier parted ways with Kering-owned Bottega Veneta, where he served as creative director over a storied and fruitful 17 years.

It is understood the winding down of the Maier label will affect between 20 and 30 employees. Its two Manhattan stores — one on Madison Avenue, the other on Bleecker Street — are expected to go dark at the end of the year, along with e-commerce.

Writing appointments for the resort 2018 and men’s spring 2019 collections have been cancelled and it is understood the next collection probably will not be produced.

Kering confirmed the shutdown to WWD in a brief statement, noting that, "Mr. Tomas Maier remains the owner of the Tomas Maier trademark" and that the group “would do its best, over the next few months, to safeguard employment, in coordination with local unions";

Parent of luxury brands including Gucci, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent and Boucheron, Kering recently disclosed it is in talks to sell its shares in Christopher Kane back to the namesake designer, ending a five-year attempt to transform the London fashion wunderkind into a luxury brand.

The French conglomerate, which is positioning itself as a pure luxury player, has also spun out of the group its stake in Puma, and is selling its holding in Stella McCartney back to her.

Kering invested in Tomas Maier in 2013, describing a joint venture with the designer to develop his brand, founded in 1997 and known primarily for swimwear, knitwear and jersey.

The partners expanded the product range to a complete lifestyle assortment, dovetailing with its leisure-oriented spirit.

Financial terms were never disclosed, but it is understood Kering held a significant stake in the Florida-based company, infusing it with the capital needed to ramp up expansion.

At the time of the investment, market sources estimated the brand generated revenues of below $10 million, and was wholesaled to about 100 doors, including specialty and department stores.

The brand had recently fortified management, tapping Gautam Rajani from Diane von Furstenberg as global director of sales and business development. Last summer, Laurent Claquin, head of Kering Americas, took on the additional role of ceo of the Maier brand. He is to remain in the former role.

"I am looking forward to the next chapter in my life," Maier said.

Under Maier’s watch, Bottega Veneta revenues swelled from around 50 million euros in early 2000 to nearly 1.2 billion euros in 2017. However, the brand lost momentum in recent years, prompting Kering to initiate a change in creative leadership. It tapped 32-year-old Daniel Lee, most recently director of ready-to-wear at Céline, to succeed Maier. He starts July 1.

Maier had been one of the longest-serving creative directors at a European brand.

Born in 1957 in Pforzheim, Germany, Maier trained at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris. Before joining Bottega in June 2001, he worked for Guy Laroche, Sonia Rykiel, Revillon and Hermès.

At Bottega, he mapped out the core values: fine-quality materials, extraordinary craftsmanship, contemporary functionality and timeless design. Maier also affirmed that Bottega would return to its logo-less heritage, conveyed in the famous slogan, “When your own initials are enough.”

It is understood Lee’s mission at Bottega is to widen the audience for the brand, and further grow its ready-to-wear business."

wwd.com

This is awful! I realize Kering is trying to position itself as a luxury conglomerate but they seem to be burning bridges with young designers left and right. They better hope it doesn't backfire in five to ten years.

 

[Lola701]

^^
In typical Kering fashion.
Another messy designer exit.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

wwd.com

This is awful! I realize Kering is trying to position itself as a luxury conglomerate but they seem to be burning bridges with young designers left and right. They better hope it doesn't backfire in five to ten years.

Gucci and Balenciaga won't last forever in their current form. Once the slowdown begins, Alessandro and Demma will find themselves thrown to the wolves. Kering seems to treat their designers as disposable pawns. Tom Ford, Frida Giannini, Stefano Pilati, Nicholas Ghesquière, and Hedi Silmaine have all been burned by Kering. Hell, they underpaid Hedi over €9.3 million, and look at how he transformed YSL. Why would anyone want to work for them? Is the fame worth being fired when things get rough?

 

[kasper!]

Pathetic news. Pinault family doesn't respect creative people at all. After all they began their business with wood business not fashion. See?

BTW Kering just closed a Stella McCartney/Christopher Kane outlet in Florence, replaced by a Chloe outlet.

 

[Lola701]

^^
Exactly. The Pinault unlike the Arnault, never had respect for fashion brands. They started in wood, went to retail and took the opportunity the enter the fashion world thanks to Ford and De Sole.

Arnault wanted Dior and fought for LVMH. Even if some of his decisions are questionable, he knows and respect the value of his brands and designers.

At Kering, it’s all about short term strategies and getting rid of designers as soon as there’s a bit of slowdown in sales.

If Marc Jacobs was owned by Kering, I think Marc would have been fired or sold a longtime ago.

 

[mepps]

At least he gets to keep his name.
There's nothing more important than your name.
Just ask John Galliano.

 

[Lola701]

^^
Galliano is a result of the pettiness of the Arnault. The brand has never been profitable, I don’t think it will ever be at this point and yet they are still on it. It’s sad...I wish he will be able to have his brand back.

 

[kasper!]

I am sure we are bound to see a drama between Alessandro Michele & Kering in the future. This maximalism trend will fade some time. We just don't know when..

 

[Benn98]

Bottega Veneta to Skip Spring 2019 Runway Show

Newly appointed creative director Daniel Lee will make his debut for Bottega Veneta on the catwalk in Milan next February.

By Alessandra Turra on July 18, 2018
NO SHOW: Bottega Veneta will skip the catwalk in September.

The Italian luxury company under the Kering umbrella won’t host a runway show to present its spring 2019 collection, the first designed by creative director Daniel Lee, who was tapped by the brand in June.

According to Bottega Veneta, Lee, who succeeded former creative director Tomas Maier, will make his runway debut in Milan in February. Maier held the position for 17 years.

A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Lee, 32, was most recently director of ready-to-wear at Céline, owned by rival French conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. This follows earlier stints at Maison Margiela, Balenciaga and Donna Karan.

Bottega Veneta, which will present its spring 2019 collection to buyers at its Milanese showroom, won’t be the only big name to skip Milan Fashion Week in September. Power fashion house Gucci will decamp from Milan for one season to unveil its spring 2019 collection in Paris on Sept. 24.

Source: WWD.com

 

[TaylorBinque]

Daniel Lee, Bottega Veneta’s New Creative Director, Lays Down the Framework: Sophisticated Elegance, Savoir Faire, and “Clothes to Live In”
I guess this is Kering's answer to the new Celine. Go to underserved market.

 

[helmutnotdead]

Daniel Lee, Bottega Veneta’s New Creative Director, Lays Down the Framework: Sophisticated Elegance, Savoir Faire, and “Clothes to Live In”
I guess this is Kering's answer to the new Celine. Go to underserved market.

Suzanne Koller and Bibi Cornejo Borthwick shoot recently the same fotos with the same styling and the same models -Malgosia n Veronica- for ZARA. This is so pointless.