Uniqlo x Christophe Lemaire

[Mutterlein]

^ nooooo I’m waiting for the chester coat in navy to come back in s. damnit.

that looks yummy though, pretty palette.. thanks for posting!

Although the collection is not intentionally limited, they really aren't reordering out of stock items outside of Japan and maybe France.

So, once it's gone, it's gone.

 

[Mutterlein]

I know the new collection intimately. It's maybe more essential, more straightforward this season than ever before. You're really getting a purer distillation of Lemaire's vision for Uniqlo rather than Lemaire's designs by Uniqlo. If that makes sense.

But the design team is also world class, most come from the luxury world like Lemaire. A mix of European and Japanese.

Highlights for women are the outerwear, the wholegarment knitwear, the jeans and the swimwear.

For men, the blocktech coat is beautiful, the true basics like the tees and crewnecks (slightly more interesting than Uniqlo's main offering and better in quality though slightly more expensive), and the pants which have more range than last season and are easily the most design conscious and well-made you can find at this price.

 

[MulletProof]

So, once it's gone, it's gone.

NOOO. I know but no. I’m still refreshing every morning in total denial.

I feel it’s so cringey.. first just to even show up on the first day of one of these collaborations but I’ll swallow my pride and do it (local Uniqlo that carries this is in a freakin’ mall so double the horror..).. but rock bottom is buying the same item in two different colors (hello ebay reseller), so I didn’t thinking I would have the energy to go back.. and here I am now. Should’ve gotten the jeans, the crease front pants, the tshirts and coat in all colors.. and walk out like I own some yeezys too.

 

[tricotineacetat]

It will be interesting to see where Uniqlo U will be headed from here on. On one hand it's great that the collection is staying staying very much consistent, but I can't deny I will most likely come back to buy things I already have more or less in slightly different nuances from previous seasons at Uniqlo U.

I feel with the price points firmly set in the 'very accessible' reach (compared to COS or H&M's designer collaborations, Uniqlo U is priced more or less the same as other Uniqlo articles), I'm sure there must be some constraints on what is possible to propose in this line, both in terms of fabrics as well as more specific/fashion-oriented styles that might not make the final cut when they edit the final line up. Most likely this is due to Uniqlo U not being a completely seperated entity from the regular Uniqlo business, as that would allow (and demand) for the collection to be differentiate itself more.

 

[Mutterlein]

It will be interesting to see where Uniqlo U will be headed from here on. On one hand it's great that the collection is staying staying very much consistent, but I can't deny I will most likely come back to buy things I already have more or less in slightly different nuances from previous seasons at Uniqlo U.

I feel with the price points firmly set in the 'very accessible' reach (compared to COS or H&M's designer collaborations, Uniqlo U is priced more or less the same as other Uniqlo articles), I'm sure there must be some constraints on what is possible to propose in this line, both in terms of fabrics as well as more specific/fashion-oriented styles that might not make the final cut when they edit the final line up. Most likely this is due to Uniqlo U not being a completely seperated entity from the regular Uniqlo business, as that would allow (and demand) for the collection to be differentiate itself more.

It's very much a platform for experimentation and testing. The ideal is that best sellers from U would be be adopted into the main collection and sold in a much bigger volume with much bigger distribution. Right now the full U collection is only available in big flagships (except for a few countries like Japan an France where it has a much bigger presence). Uniqlo calls it "the future of LifeWear," LifeWear being their philosophy on clothing designed to make the wearer's life better (rather than chase trends). So it's very much the pioneering end of the company.

 

[tricotineacetat]

It's very much a platform for experimentation and testing. The ideal is that best sellers from U would be be adopted into the main collection and sold in a much bigger volume with much bigger distribution. Right now the full U collection is only available in big flagships (except for a few countries like Japan an France where it has a much bigger presence). Uniqlo calls it "the future of LifeWear," LifeWear being their philosophy on clothing designed to make the wearer's life better (rather than chase trends). So it's very much the pioneering end of the company.

I saw that being the case with some of the +J designs, namely some outerwear pieces that made it back into the regular Uniqlo line some seasons ago, in slightly different fabrication (sadly a little bit downgraded, but I still remembered it from the first time around). It was a bit confusing because at some point there was a clearly marketed 'let's bring back the best pieces from +J another time' capsule collection that was labeled again as such and then there was Uniqlo putting some select models back in production as mainline Uniqlo.

I have no doubt Uniqlo sees what U and +J brought to their company but the question is if they are thinking to keep furthering on these initiatives or if it's a matter of 3-4 years after which the story of Uniqlo U is told for them and Lemaire. Both him and Jil Sander are of a specific breed of designers that really suited Uniqlo perfectly, I'm not sure there are that many I could otherwise suggest in that spirit.

 

[MulletProof]

has anyone checked out the fall collection? drooling over that v-neck cardigan, I was thinking some months ago "I need a v-neck cardigan.. thick but not stiff or chunky.. red, and black and mustard" and BAM ... I will go livid if that's just the pictures and he actually made it belly button length or worse, ribcage length..

 

[tricotineacetat]

You could always just buy the men's V-Neck cardigan which seems to be made from the same knit as the women's, if you prefer a longer length. I'm not necessarily in big need of another V-Neck cardigan but that very appealing oxblood color got me fixed, so I might buy one, nonetheless.

The collection seems a bit smaller than the summer range and definitely focussed on updating previous season pieces in new fabrications (as the collection brief already mentioned). That's kinda disappointing for those customers like me who have already bought quite a lot throughout the range, I feel like I already have a lot of what will come for Fall 2018.

I will probably end up buying knits for the most part and maybe try some of the color since. Of the new pieces, I enjoy the heavy jersey ensemble the most that consists of a loose V-Neck tunic and ankle-length wide pants. Styled in all-white, that reminds me a lot of Lemaire's first collection for Hermès, even though I will probably get that in tobacco instead and wear that with boots.

It would be interesting to know what the long term plan is for Uniqlo U now that Lemaire's contract has been renewed and that Fast Retail bought a minority stake in his own collection as well - Seems like they would like to invest in this partnership on a longer term.

 

[MulletProof]

You could always just buy the men's V-Neck cardigan which seems to be made from the same knit as the women's, if you prefer a longer length. I'm not necessarily in big need of another V-Neck cardigan but that very appealing oxblood color got me fixed, so I might buy one, nonetheless.

Tried both (m & w).. the men’s one looked exactly as the last men’s cardigan I bought: strange... shoulders too wide, and yeah.. like \ / lol, except the chest area has zero volume (of course).

Didn’t like the texture on both.. didn’t like most things to be honest. I hate sweatshirts but was secretly hoping for this one to be a good one and nope. Also tried on all the pants and the more interesting-looking ones had a strong 70s vibe that I just can’t.. these were a disappointment too cause I want red pants so bad!

I got the lambswool mock neck sweater in mustard cause it was just so comfortable and lovely, plus the work jacket.. which was one of the usual surprises of his line for Uniqlo, didn’t like it in the pictures but it feels great once you put it on.

 

[tricotineacetat]

The collection won't release in Europe before Thursday next week so my judgement is still based on the images, but I was also a bit underwhelmed by it - They went a bit too far pushing all these brights for winter, especially that turmeric yellow, when there is very often no black color option offered on a lot of the pieces. The oxblood and curry colorways offered in some of the men's knits would have been nice repeated in the women's, generally you get the idea that the color schemes in general were not so much thought out to offer a cohesive merchandising throughout the collection - The styling in the lookbook reflects that, all these clashing colors don't do anything to create harmonic looks.

I'm sure I will find a few knits this time but I'm afraid there is not that much new stuff for the person like me who has already a wardrobe full of Uniqlo U.

 

[MulletProof]

^ yeah, I let my hopes go up under previous experience of "everything that looks bad will be good and everything that looks good will be bad" and most of these pieces looked bad haha, but sadly, they are.. maybe not bad, just so not my style. The others like you said, I already have..

Will still check out the second batch.. ..

 

[tricotineacetat]

Pictures of the upcoming SS'19 collection have surfaced on Instagram from their Tokyo press day.

Here's the first part of the womenswear:







(picture source: instagram)

 

[tricotineacetat]

(picture source: instagram)

 

[tricotineacetat]

last two pictures should be part of the menswear.

The attentive follower will recognize a few re-issues in the collection, let's see how it looks like in it's entire line up. So far I'm mostly enthusiastic about the abstract, multicolored prints made up in what seems like a wide pair of shorts and a hawaiian shirt - I hope that print made it into the menswear as well, it feels unexpected and fun for Uniqlo U and an easy way to wear allover print.

Not feeling the color palette otherwise, I could have done with less shades in the pastel pink spectrum, at times I feel it's a bit stuck between Lemaire's sensibility and the need to appeal to a much more mainstream audience.

I'm sure I will find something again I will love to wear when this collection is out but can't help to shake off the thought that it would be nice to have this collection with a slightly more elevated 'designer' point of view as a stand alone concept, possibly at a slightly higher price point that would ensure no compromises in quality of the fabrics would occur again as in the current fall collection.

(picture source: instagram)

 

[tatouejeremie]

full lookbook is online now:

Uniqlo U 2019 Spring/Summer Collection | UNIQLO

looks good

 

[MulletProof]

All good but let's just talk about how his dresses continue to be the worst of both worlds (Lemaire and Uniqlo), matronly, weird and.. plain ugly. Lemaire, honey, you got down the hardest part (great pants), now just connect one leg to the other but with opposite materials, grab some scissors and just when you think 'that's short enough' KEEP GOING.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Thank god there are plenty of pieces in the women's collection that qualify as 'unisex' as most of the menswear is really nothing much to talk about if you've already bought into the collection from the very beginning - I feel like I already have most of this. I might wanna get the basketball shorts and try the women's print shorts. Quite disappointed they didn't use that print for any men's pieces or added an oversized t-shirt blouse in the womenswear, it's really a nice touch that he brought the SS'18 watercolor prints of his womenswear show to Uniqlo and it's an easy way to update an existing Uniqlo U wardrobe with just a piece or two.

 

[Mutterlein]

Men's was a bit lackluster this season. A lot of pieces are reissued from seasons. Still, there's some good basics to pick up but definitely women's is a lot stronger.

 

[softgrey]

first time I've thought the womenswear was stronger than the menswear...

 

[SophiaVB]

I wish they would do more neutrals. Sorry if that's too sad for spring!

I hope the material quality improves as well. The fall collection was a bit cheap in some pieces and incredible in others.