What do stylists do at fashion brands?

[Overindulgence]

I've always been curious as to what exactly is the role of a stylist to a fashion brand or creative director/designer? I'm familiar with what stylists do when it comes to campaign/editorial styling but it seems like they have a more integral/involved role when it comes to runway collections. Some stylists' influence are so clear that you can recognize when a collection is styled by them. Do they consult when collections are being designed or are they only involved in creating the looks with the already-designed pieces for the runway show (or both)?

I'm talking about stylists such as Marie Amelie-Sauve, Carine Roitfield, Marie Chaix, Emanuelle Alt, Olivier Rizzo, Lotta, etc.. Stylists whose role seem almost as important to the development of a collection/pieces and the overall look of a brand as the creative director's.

 

[Phuel]

The ones with a close personal relationship with the designers that’s as important as their professional relationship, absolutely have massive sway on the designer’s output. Nicolas and Demna clearly have more of an unofficial collaborative relationship with their stylists. The lines are blurred in these stylists’ roles— which isn’t uncommon when it comes to these high profile titles in the industry. Roles blur into one another. I’ve seen many times when young, new designers I’ve worked with will get so excited when certain stylists/fashion directors will pull a generous selection from their offerings, even commission pieces, only to have not a single piece— including the commissioned pieces, show up in the final editorial. Maybe the pieces didn’t work with the direction of the shoot; or maybe the photographer didn’t like the way that the pieces look with the overall aesthetic; or maybe the CD/AD didn't like it... They all influence one another’s creative decisions.

 

[Mutterlein]

It really depends on the relationship.

Sometimes a stylist is only booked to style the show or the lookbook. In those instances the they are usually booked for a few days to help edit the collection, put together looks, advise or even oversee casting, direction for hair and make-up, and advise during the fitting.

But sometimes their involvement is much deeper.

They are often booked to serve as design consultants and can be involved in everything from the color concept, sketch review, proto and sample development, even the marketing and campaign concept.

I know one stylist who was so involved that he basically replaced the designer in the studio. It was SD styling HB by BP.

In those instances they usually have a retainer contract and are required to give the brand a certain number of days a month or season which they then ration out over the specified period . But not always.

The stylist I used to assist had a 10k day rate and she would sometimes just go to the client and give her opinion on sketches and prints.

Other times we would go out and shop for things for them to knock off.

It's very common for stylists to call in press samples "for a shoot" only to lend then to client for them to knock off. I believe Carine Roitfeld got in trouble for this. The stylist I worked for never did this.

Camilla Nickerson and Melanie Ward are notorious for being very hands on in the studio.

But sometimes they'll just get booked to style a perfume as.