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Published: Tuesday, November 15, 2005
Fashion History Here to Stay at FIT
By Rosemary Feitelberg
NEW YORK — The Fashion Institute of Technology, which routinely looks to the past to help designers find inspiration today, has done some groundbreaking on its own.
FIT has opened the first U.S. gallery that houses a permanent exhibition devoted to the history of fashion and textiles. Recapping the last 250 years is a challenge, but museum director Valerie Steele managed to do it in four adjoining rooms.
As workers touched up the space last week, she explained how she hopes others will respond to the Fashion and Textile History Gallery. "If you look back at fashion, you get a better understanding of the present and the future of fashion," Steele said. "Our shows are usually so cutting-edge. This is a way to provide some context."
She continued, "This will also be a real revelation for students. Professors can walk them through or they can have self-taught classes since everything is perfectly dressed and put together. That is much more meaningful than bringing out something on a hanger in front of a class."
On entering the street-level space, a Ruben Toledo-designed "wheel of change" graces one wall and a Charles James' petal ballgown adorns a wall highlighting Steele's belief that fashion is a barometer of cultural, social and technological changes. She quickly pointed out that every six months, 100 pieces from the museum's 50,000 garments and accessories and its 30,000 textiles will be chosen for a new display.
One of the more interesting ensembles is the chemise and pantaloons Paul Poiret made for his wife. The museum acquired them at a recent auction, Steele said. "Long before Chanel was in the business, Paul Poiret was revolutionizing things," she said.
Chanel is also represented, as are the Callot sisters, Madame Grès back in her Alix days, Vionnet, Elsa Schiaparelli, Adrien and Christian Dior. Balenciaga, past and present, is also on display. In terms of today's designers, Steele pointed to a few standouts.
"Rei Kawakubo, I think, is one of the most important designers in recent times,'' Steele said, pointing to her ballerina-biker look for Comme des Garçons on display. "She has done so much experimenting with decoration, volume and explaining symbols of fashion." Gesturing toward the red dress and capelet nearby by Isabel Toledo, Steele said she is "a huge fan" of that designer. Ralph Rucci, John Galliano for Christian Dior, Proenza Schouler and Zac Posen are some of the other contemporary designers whose work is on display.
Still, even the museum staff was disheartened that they could not feature more designers. Steele said she was interested in touching upon the neo-Victorian theme, but that was out of the question since the trend is under way.
"The only thing that consoled us is we already started pulling for the second rotation," Steele said.
Fashion History Here to Stay at FIT
By Rosemary Feitelberg
NEW YORK — The Fashion Institute of Technology, which routinely looks to the past to help designers find inspiration today, has done some groundbreaking on its own.
FIT has opened the first U.S. gallery that houses a permanent exhibition devoted to the history of fashion and textiles. Recapping the last 250 years is a challenge, but museum director Valerie Steele managed to do it in four adjoining rooms.
As workers touched up the space last week, she explained how she hopes others will respond to the Fashion and Textile History Gallery. "If you look back at fashion, you get a better understanding of the present and the future of fashion," Steele said. "Our shows are usually so cutting-edge. This is a way to provide some context."
She continued, "This will also be a real revelation for students. Professors can walk them through or they can have self-taught classes since everything is perfectly dressed and put together. That is much more meaningful than bringing out something on a hanger in front of a class."
On entering the street-level space, a Ruben Toledo-designed "wheel of change" graces one wall and a Charles James' petal ballgown adorns a wall highlighting Steele's belief that fashion is a barometer of cultural, social and technological changes. She quickly pointed out that every six months, 100 pieces from the museum's 50,000 garments and accessories and its 30,000 textiles will be chosen for a new display.
One of the more interesting ensembles is the chemise and pantaloons Paul Poiret made for his wife. The museum acquired them at a recent auction, Steele said. "Long before Chanel was in the business, Paul Poiret was revolutionizing things," she said.
Chanel is also represented, as are the Callot sisters, Madame Grès back in her Alix days, Vionnet, Elsa Schiaparelli, Adrien and Christian Dior. Balenciaga, past and present, is also on display. In terms of today's designers, Steele pointed to a few standouts.
"Rei Kawakubo, I think, is one of the most important designers in recent times,'' Steele said, pointing to her ballerina-biker look for Comme des Garçons on display. "She has done so much experimenting with decoration, volume and explaining symbols of fashion." Gesturing toward the red dress and capelet nearby by Isabel Toledo, Steele said she is "a huge fan" of that designer. Ralph Rucci, John Galliano for Christian Dior, Proenza Schouler and Zac Posen are some of the other contemporary designers whose work is on display.
Still, even the museum staff was disheartened that they could not feature more designers. Steele said she was interested in touching upon the neo-Victorian theme, but that was out of the question since the trend is under way.
"The only thing that consoled us is we already started pulling for the second rotation," Steele said.
