1880-1936 Jean Patou

[Whitelinen]

I didn't find a thread on him

Jean Patou (Paris, 1880-1936) was a French fashion designer.
The designer, who was born in Normandy, France, opened his couture house in 1919 after serving in WWI. He became known for eradicating the flapper look by lengthening the skirt and returning to a natural waistline. Patou also is credited with introducing sportswear for women and is considered the inventor of the knitted swimwear and the tennis skirt. He also was the first designer to popularize the cardigan, moving fashion towards the natural and comfortable.Jean Patou invented the designer tie in the 1920's. He used women's dress material for his ties and they were displayed in department stores next to women's perfume counters. In America three out of four ties are bought by women. The designer tie style is still prominent amongst contemporary fashion designers, such as Louis Feraud, Patrick McMurray, Timothy Everest Simon Carter,Duchamp and Paul Smith.
Patou's clothes were marketed mostly to wealthy American women. When the stock marketcrashed, however, so did the market for luxury fashion. The House of Patou survived through its perfumes, which remain well known today.
The best known of Patou's perfumes is "Joy," a floral scent; another is "Sublime," which combines floral and musky tones. The world's second best-selling scent (the first is Chanel No. 5), Joy was created by Henri Alméras for Patou at the height of the Great Depression(1935) for Patou's former clients who could no longer afford his haute couture clothes. Patou died in 1936. His sister and her husband, Madeleine and Raymond Barbas, continued the House of Patou, which remains a family-owned enterprise. Other designers to have been associated with this house are Jean Kerléo and Karl Lagerfeld.

wikipedia.org

Cape and Dress, ca. 1931
Jean Patou (French, 1887—1936)
Ivory china silk with multicolored floral print
Gift of Madame Lilliana Teruzzi, 1972 (1972.30.17a,b)

met.org

 

[Whitelinen]

Day suit, ca. 1937
Jean Patou (French, 1887–1936)
Black wool gabardine with silk grosgrain inserts
Gift of Mrs. Stephen M. Kellen, 1978 (1978.165.20a,b)

met.org

 

[ultramarine]

OMFG! There isnt a thread on Patou!!!!

I love how houses like Celine, Patou and Chanel started sportswear -and now .. its moved to the americans? /with the exception of Lacoste/-

Hes soooo must-check-out-worthy

 

[MUXU]

great thread!
i remember seeing some of his dresses from a book and they were lovely
i love the bias dresses from the 30s. i love how it slims and lengthens the figure.

 

[ultramarine]

I remember how Lagerfeld mentioned he used Patou as inspiration ...

 

[BaroqueRockstar]

the first dress is so gorgeous!

 

[rollagasper]

^ It Is!

 

[ultramarine]

Are there any more pics of his works?

 

[SomethingElse]

http://www.jeanpatou.com/

vintageous.com . oac.state.oh.us . tias.com

 

[SomethingElse]

bio-byte.com . rubylane.com . ebayimg.com . retro-fashion-history.com

 

[SomethingElse]

Phew, not very easy to find... This is my favorite! (so far...)

char.txa.cornell.edu

 

[SomethingElse]

You can find more at http://www.beverleybirks.com.

 

[Whitelinen]

lilyofthevalley.se

The other dress is Christian Dior, the other Jean Patou.

 

[SomethingElse]

1929 Black rayon knit jump-suit with cape

kci.or.jp

 

[SomethingElse]

(Translated 1925 Evening dress.

Link to the source/article: http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/fr/00artsdecoratifs/02collections/2004_08.html

 

[SomethingElse]

Day suit, ca. 1937 Black wool gabardine with silk grosgrain inserts.

Patou constructed a tailored suit as if it were a jigsaw puzzle. Formed as a gabardine suit with all the pattern pieces wholly constructed, the silk grosgrain diamonds were inserted replacing gabardine squares. Each diamond is composed of four mitered elements. By this analytical technique, the suit is integrally conceived, and the front of the suit reveals the wool ground as a full surround.

metmuseum.com

 

[SomethingElse]

1934 - This long sleeveless evening dress made of tulle is entirely covered in pink sequins. The bodice is loosely draped and has a slightly pleated peplum at the front. There is a golden sequinned belt at waist level. The skirt of the dress is tubular and ends at the bottom with a trompe-l'oeil effect of pleats.

During the first half of the 1930s, evening dresses were designed to wrap women in luxurious, body-hugging sheaths, replacing the short and flat square gowns of the 1920s. Evening gowns were mostly sleeveless, often displaying a bare back or a low neckline and inevitably touching the floor. During the Depression, designers were forced to explore simpler lines and shapes, whch they found in classical architecture and dress. The glorification of the body, central to classical dress, inspired fashion designers to display the female body as much as possible while concealing it with softer fabrics. In the same search for classical simplicity and purity, designers discarded the heavy embroideries of the 1920s, for the simple use of evocative fabrics such as lamés and satins.

vam.ac.uk

 

[DosViolines]

Jean Patou
1932 - 1933

White silk organza evening dress. Bias-cut bodice with small pieces of organza forming cap/shawl sleeves which hook to center back straps. Criss-crossing straps covered with irridescent white sequins and tiny silver bugle beads. Full skirt covered with scallops, each edged with organza ruffle and decorated with sequins and beads. Self-fabric sash. Back closure of self-fabric buttons and loops. Cream silk crepe chemise. Clutch purse covered in irridescent sequins to match dress.
Clothing label: Jean Patou/PARIS

dlxs.lib.wayne.edu

 

[DosViolines]

Jean Patou
1933 - 1937

Sleeveless floor-length dress with matching long-sleeve jacket in coral silk crepe. V-shaped neckline in front and back; floating curved panels over bust; sewn tucks over midriff. Self-fabric button closure in back leaves small, diamond-shaped opening in middle of back. Short half-belt in back. Seams curved over hips with slight fullness below knees. Weighted bottom. China silk half-slip in matching color. Waist-length, double-breasted jacket with suplice closure and 2 self-fabric buttons. No collar. Elbow-length bell sleeves. Machine and hand sewn.

dlxs.lib.wayne.edu

 

[SomethingElse]

^ When a dress is made for your body, like this one, it is one of the most comforting sensations in the world. The coral color is a completely satisfying dream! Bravo, DV!