1891-1956 House of Paquin

[Whitelinen]

Jeanne Paquin (1869 - 1936) was a French fashion designer, known for her resolutely modern and innovative designs.
Born in Saint-Denis in 1869, Paquin trained as a dressmaker at Rouff and later opened her own fashion house in 1891, the first woman to ever do so. The Maison Paquin quickly became known for its Eighteenth Century-inspired pastel evening dresses and tailored day dresses, as well as for its numerous publicity stunts, including organizing fashion parades to promote her new models and sending her models to operas and races in order to show off her designs. Paquin also frequently collaborated with the illustrators and architects Leon Bakst, George Barbier, Robert Mallet-Stevens, and Louis Süe for the creation of stage costumes, the publication of dress albums and the decoration of her private residences, reinforcing her reputaion as a thoroughly modern designer.
Jeanne Paquin withdrew from the House in 1920, leaving the administration with Henri Joire, and the artistic direction to Madeleine Wallis. The direction of the House later returned to Colette Massignac who was able to adapt the style of the collections to the popular “New Look” of the 1950s. In 1953, the Maison Paquin purchased the French branch of the House of Worth, but financial difficulties forced the House to close down in 1956.
In her time, Paquin had a prestige equal to that of Charles Worth and Jacques Doucet but is nowadays largely forgotten.

wikipedia.org

Chimère, evening gown. Beaded silk, French, 1925.
www.artdecoblog.blogspot.com

 

[DosViolines]

Thanks for the thread WhiteLinen
Took me two weeks to find it!

It's so sad that the first woman to open her own fashion house is relatively unknown

 

[Whitelinen]

I know, she should get far more recognition. Do you know where I could find more photos or info of her work? Those pictures posted are the only ones I managed to find online.

 

[zamb]

if you ever get a chance to visit a fashion college, or any library in a big city with a fashion department you should be able to find imformaton on her work.
i remember reading a lot about her when i attended college and did work study in the library.........................

 

[DosViolines]

Found some

vam.ac.uk

Walking costume
(Coat) Sybille
(Coat) summer 1907 (Designed)
(Coat) Woollen facecloth, decorated with applied soutache braid

Pastel colours combined with textured decoration were very fashionable in the early 1900s. This walking costume by Paquin shows how designers of the period lavishly adorned plain cloth with a variety of rich trimmings. Skilled seamstresses in the embroidery workshop would have applied the narrow braid with great precision. This ensured that the design achieved a perfect balance between the plain and decorated areas.

 

[DosViolines]

vam.ac.uk

Fan
1911
Printed and hand-coloured paper, with painted silk on reverse, and painted bone sticks and guards
Barbier, Georges, born 1882 - died 1932 (designers)
Paquin, Madame

Georges Barbier was a leading fashion illustrator in Paris in the early 20th century. He collaborated with the most avant garde fashion designers of the day, such as Paul Poiret and Madame Paquin. The elaborate oriental costumes of the Ballets Russes, who performed in Paris, strongly influenced fashion in the 1910s. Madame Paquin worked with Barbier to develop a series of fans on an Eastern theme. The woman depicted on this fan wears a headdress identical to one designed by Madame Paquin. The style and content of the fan's design looks forward to the 1920s and Art Deco.

 

[DosViolines]

Found some more images and info of the first dress that was posted

vam.ac.uk

Evening dress
1925
Embroidered silk
This sleeveless, below-the-knee evening dress is made of embroidered and beaded silk, showing motifs of Chinese dragons. It was designed by Jeanne Paquin for the Paris exhibition of 1925.

 

[DosViolines]

I've found two other Paquin creations that date back to the 1920s, but they were probably not designed by Paquin herself since she retired in 1920.

Then again, was the dress from post #1 and #8 designed by her or by Madeleine Wallis? According to the source it was

 

[Whitelinen]

Thank you for all this and thank you Zamb for advice. Would you want to tell more about it? Is there anything you especially liked on her work? What do you think of her work, as from the point of a designer?

 

[DosViolines]

doylenewyork

Paquin Ecru Silk and Lace Afternoon Gown
French, 1912

The underskirt of silk overlaid with three tiers of Alencon lace, applique with a garland of silk rosebuds at the front of the skirt, the empire waist with pleated satin cummerbund sash with coral trim at the back, the V-neck, lace bodice extending to a cape at the back, labeled: Paquin/Paris/Rue de la Paix/London/39 Dover Street/Ete 1912.

Estimate $500-700

 

[DosViolines]

doylenewyork

Paquin Lavish Embroidered Opera Coat
French, Summer 1920

Referencing the Orient, black silk and cinnabar printed brocade lame in a cartouche and flaming chrysanthemum and sunburst pattern, applique with copper lame embellished with applique lotus, rose and crescent-shaped foliate motifs of bronze lame, gold bullion, couched and Oriental metallic embroidery accented with royal blue and copper silk floss, lame ribbon applique, wide set in sleeve, shawl collar, chocolate brown silk charmeuse lining, size 8/10, labeled: Paquin/Paris/Londres/Buenos Aires/Madrid/Unis France/Ete 1920/(?)0661.

Excellent condition, relined.
Estimate $5,000-7,000

 

[DosViolines]

Paquin Chestnut Velvet Walking Suit
French, 1912
The frock coat style jacket thigh-length, with front placket concealing covered buttons, the lower portion cut away in curves at front, to draped weighted tails at back, with middy collar and military detailing at sleeves, geometric vertical motifs worked in top stitching in self color, copper satin lining, the flared skirt worked with similar stitching, draped in pouf and cut away at front below knee, waist size of skirt 27 inches, labeled: Paquin/3.Rue de la Paix/Paris/39 Dover Street/London and handwritten in ink on underside:?327 Rosenberg 229.
Very good condition, train of skirt shortened, some loose stitching on coat lining, discolorations in lining at armscyes, minor marks to skirt velvet at hem.

doylenewyork

 

[ilaughead]

That opera coat is beyond amazing! (And it's priced to match!)

 

[SomethingElse]

"Mme. Paquin is usually credited with a list of honors, including being considered the first major female couturier, the first Parisian couturier to open foreign establishments in London, Madrid and Buenos Aires, and chairing the 1900 Paris Exposition. In 1913, she was the first women dress designer to be awarded the Legion of Honor and was the President of the Chambre Syndicate from 1917 to 1919. For a time, she was known as the queen of Paris Couture. The House of Paquin, located at 3 rue de la Paix, was founded in 1891 by M. and Mme. Insidore Paquin. M. Paquin, a wealthy banker and businessman, provided the initial backing for the couture house, which Mme., Paquin ran single-handedly for a time.



The lace dress on the left in this image is from Paquin.


c. 1911

The one in the middle is John Redfern, and on the right is Callot Soeurs, both c. 1908.

cti.itc.virginia.edu . nkim.museum.no

 

[SomethingElse]

1911 Off-white and silver silk jacquard with floral motif in Renaissance style; bodice and skirt; bead embroidered belt; scarab shaped ornament; skirt of asymmetry design.

kci.or.jp

 

[DosViolines]

Paquin Couture Evening Gown, c. 1913

whitakerauction

 

[DosViolines]

House of Paquin (France, 1891 - 1956), Madame Isadore Paquin (Jeanne Beckers) (France, 1869 - 1936)
Woman's Evening Dress, 1927
Costume/clothing principle attire/entire body, Sequins and glass beads on silk satin-backed crepe, 41 1/2 in. (105.4 cm)

lacma.org

 

[DosViolines]

House of Paquin (France, 1891 - 1956)
Woman's Cocktail Dress with Matching Belt and Hat, 1939
Costume/clothing principle attire/entire body; Costume/clothing accessory/headwear, Wool jersey with rectangular plastic spangles

lacma.org

 

[DosViolines]

Jeanne Paquin (1869 – 1936) opened her couture house in 1891 on the Rue de la paix, next door to the House of Worth. President of the Fashion Section of the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1900, Paquin later became the first Parisian couturier to open branches in London, Buenos Aires and Madrid.
Jeanne Paquin designed gowns of quiet sophistication, which appealed to women of refined taste. Her clients included the queens of Belgium, Portugal, and Spain. As Robert Forrest wrote in 1925: “Fashion once simply did not know what to wear until Madame Paquin brought out her season’s models; and as for her competitors, their plight was pitiful.”

Jeanne Paquin, afternoon gown (rear view), 1910, France, worn and donated by Mrs. Henry A. Rumsey, photograph by Irving Solero

fitnyc

 

[SomethingElse]

Black velvet and organza halter-necked gown, early 1950s, bearing the Paquin `Les Couturiers Associés 'label, the slim fitted bodice with cross-over pleats of organza to the decolleté which emerge behind to frame the low-cut back, with voluminous soft velvet skirt, large organza bow to the back.

kerrytaylorauctions.com