1920s : Fashions of a Roaring Decade

[DosViolines]

Two great resources on the evolution of 1920's fashion:

• 1920-1930 - Fashion History of the 1920's
• Fashion in the 1920's (slideshow)

vintage streetstyle: 1920's thread at tFS
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[DosViolines]

The simple shape of twenties "flapper" shift dresses meant that bold decorative geometric designs were very popular. Simple lines of beading and dropped waist-lines help to create a very understated and elegant look, whilst the emphasis on movement can be seen in the extensive use of pendant tassels and layered uneven hem-lines. Shading and bold colouration were also popular so that the wearer would stand out on a dance floor or in a cocktail bar.

Beaded dresses were particularly fashionable, and were surprisingly heavy towards the hem, due to the huge numbers of glass bugle beads forming the patterns. They were never intended to be permanent creations, and over the years this weight can easily tear the narrow shoulder straps, whilst the beads can snag and come detached. Surviving examples should never be worn, and they need to be displayed carefully and stored flat in trays or drawers rather than on hangers in wardrobes. There are several beaded 1920s dresses on view in the Gallery, with a modern sample to touch, and there is also an example of beading in our Schools Handling Collection.

manchestergalleries

Artist/Maker: Maison Ross
Role in production: Make
Place of Creation: Europe, France
Date: 1925

Tunic of pale pink silk crepe (georgette). Shading to deeper pink at hem.

Sleeveless. Low round neck. Cut straight with side seams to petal shaped hemline of alternate long and short points, each with shallow scalloped ends. Bead embroidered, clear glass and pink towards hemline, mainly in vertical lines with pointed shapes towards neck and shoulders. Large bow of pink net, ends falling below skirt at right hip. Small bands with press fasteners inside shoulders to hold straps. Underslip of silver and red lame with top edged and shoulder straps of cream georgette.

 

[DosViolines]

Date: 1924-1926

Orange silk crepe with all-over beaded design of Egyptian design, following discovery of tomb of Tutankhamun.

Neckline square at back and v at front, gathered at shoulders; front and back each cut in one section, back overlapping front at hip and fastening with three press studs. Glass beads of various colours applied in complex geometric design with bead fringes. Petersham belt inside waist. Slip of orange silk crepe, stitched to dress at shoulders.

manchestergalleries

 

[DosViolines]

Date: 1928-1929

Dark blue sheer silk dance dress, entirely worked with lines of silver-coloured glass bugle beads and small beads mounted on metal sequins in concentric geometric pattern; sleeveless with v-shaped neckline and dropped waist.

manchestergalleries

 

[DosViolines]

Place of Creation: Europe, UK
Date: 1928

Pale pink silk taffeta: sleeveless dress with round scoop neckline and plain bodice; calf-length skirt, sides longer than back and front, of applied "petals" made of individual pink silk squares, each fixed to skirt at corners to produce a three-dimensional, petal-like effect;

manchestergalleries

 

[DosViolines]

Artist/Maker: Molyneux, Edward
Role in production: make
Place of Creation: Europe, France
Date: 1923

Cream silk crepe printed with bold Japanese deisgn of birds and branches in black. Orange sun at lower centre front.

Round neck, lower at front, bound in white crepe. Very short cap sleeves edged. Dropped waist seam tying in bow on left. White silk bodice lining in two sections. Narrow silk satin shoulder straps. 4" opening all down centre back over cream crepe underskirt. Back lined in white silk. Black crepe gusset inserted underarms.

manchestergalleries

 

[DosViolines]

Beaded French Evening Gown, c. 1929

whitakerauction

 

[DosViolines]

French beaded chiffon flapper dress, c.1925

The dress is fashioned from cherry red silk chiffon embellished with red crystal beads and glittering rhinestones. The scalloped layers, swaying when the flapper danced the Charleston, were considered risqué at the time.

The simple chemise style slips over the head with no closures. The label reads "Made in France/Rue de la Paix Gowns/Paris."

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Juliette-style rhinestone flapper cap, late 1920s

Authentic beaded flapper evening caps in good condition rarely come on the market. This lovely rhinestone cap is a special find for the serious collector. The name comes from the Renaissance-style cap that Juliet might have worn in 15th century Verona in the most famous love story of all time, Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet.

The cap is fashioned from a diagonal mesh pattern of twisted bronze metallic wire that radiates out from a center diamond of prong-set rhinestones. Each intersection of the mesh has a prong-set rhinestone. The cap is bordered with a single row of rhinestones.

Like many true metallic pieces, the cap has developed a rich patina over time. The contrast of glittering rhinestones with burnished old metal conveys a feeling of old wealth seasoned over the generations. The patina on the metal is the tribute that time pays to beauty.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

A PALE PINK BEADED MUSLIN COCKTAIL DRESS, FRENCH, CIRCA 1926-27

covered with a shimmer of pearlised bugle beads, with gold beaded flowerheads and bands, asymmetric skirt

sothebys

 

[DosViolines]

A BEADED AND EMBROIDERED SATIN TRAINED EVENING GOWN, FRENCH, CIRCA 1920

the ground of green satin changing to black at the skirt with elaborate copper thread embroidery and pink and blue beading, matching belt

sothebys

 

[DosViolines]

A BLUE AND GOLD BEADED COCKTAIL GOWN, EARLY 1920S BUT ALTERED LATE 1920S

cloth of gold ground with elaborate peacock in flight and prunus beading

sothebys

 

[DosViolines]

A CORAL BEADED COCKTAIL GOWN, FRENCH, CIRCA 1926-27

of pale pink chiffon plastered with coral coloured beads and diamanté, tiered skirt

sothebys

 

[seanutbutter]

The 1920s held some of my favorite clothing. Certainly not very flattering, but comfortable and unique. Revolutionary, if you will.

 

[SomethingElse]

Fantastic thread, DV. Having a place for some anonymous designers will be terrific fun! In the meanwhile....

1924 silk, wool. Seeking in both the new cylindrical silhouettes and in her characteristic robes de style to adorn flat planes with new designs associated with Art Deco, Lanvin developed a repertoire of motifs at once modern and decorative. Black cutouts are stitched by hand to a contrasting white dress. The design is even further integrated into the dress by the stitching's being hidden under the edge of the appliqué, thus making it appear a pieced rather than an applied patterning.

metmusemu.org

 

[SomethingElse]

1928 silk and feather, by Louiseboulanger (French, 1878-1950). Feathers of the 1920s swayed with the new music and dance, benefited from Orientalism's panache and bent for the exotic, and allowed clothing to be more fluid and flexible than ever. Here, the feather trim is individual filiments of ostrich plume knotted together to form longer strands. Each is dyed a different tone for the effect of an ombré cascade. The feather in nature is a beautiful form, but Louiseboulanger's feathers are purposely governed and distilled beyond natural beauty to achieve a trim synthetic and sophisticated silhouette.

metmuseum.org

 

[cheiby11]

I adore the era - the dresses are divine!!

thank you for sharing and for this thread!!!

 

[DosViolines]

A BEADED AND SEQUINNED YELLOW MUSLIN COCKTAIL DRESS, FRENCH, CIRCA 1926

with pearlised and silver bugle beads, opalescent sequins

sothebys

 

[DosViolines]

A GOOD BEADED YELLOW MUSLIN COCKTAIL GOWN, FRENCH, CIRCA 1927

the sturdy ground covered with a shimmer of gold, silver and pearlised bugle beads

sothebys

 

[DosViolines]

A BEADED BLACK EVENING GOWN, EARLY 1920S

with radiating panels of bugle beads from central medallion, tulle traintogether with a black beaded tiered gown c.1929and a gold and black brocaded coat

sothebys