A Magazine #12 curated by Stephen Jones

[mistress_f]

(on the cover "Anna & Stephen," by Gladys Perint Palmer )

“I like a magazine that looks like a magazine,” he said yesterday. “It’s not a book. I didn’t want it to be page after page of slightly meaningless photographs. That’s why I thought illustration. I love illustration, I draw every day. And that’s the way designers communicate, through drawing.”
Jones’ choice of medium couldn’t be more timely, with the revival of interest in the work of Antonio Lopez and the spotlight that Anna Piaggi’s recent death threw on Vanity, the mythic magazine she produced with Antonio in the eighties. Piaggi was a close friend of Jones’. It was actually Vanity that brought them together. (Jones’ single interaction with Antonio was when he asked if he could see the picture the artist was drawing of him. Antonio crumpled it, threw it in the trash, and offered a flat “No!”). And Jones sees this current project as a kind of tribute to his late friend and inspiratrice.
There’s no theme, unusual for Jones, whose hat collections usually revolve around a story. “When I saw the work coming in, it was very much about the illustrators themselves.” The roster of talent includes David Downton, one of whose pet subjects, Dita Von Teese, models accessories semi-naked and centerfold-style; Peter Turner, Galliano’s illustrator at Dior, who contributes a story on men’s underwear (Jones advertises, “Entirely gratuitous nudity”); and the legendary Howard Tangye, head of womenswear at Central Saint Martins, who illustrates spring for A Magazine’s pullout calendar.

Jones’ sole brief to the illustrators was that they could draw whatever they wanted. At least half the images are of hats. “It’s you, Stephen,” they told him when he complained that he wanted his magazine to be about everything. He had to shut up and take the compliment. Anyway, there’s always Donald Urquhart’s images of Leigh Bowery to balance the hattage. He drew them with his own genitalia, dipped in ink.

Jones’ own contribution is a selection of ten favorite drawings, which he spent the Christmas holiday picking out of the thousands he’s made since he launched himself as a milliner in 1979. There are also some “conversations in drawing”: Jones would send Mugler or Montana or Kawakubo a suggestion to accessorize a collection, they’d send it back with comments. He’s also included drawings from industrial designers like Zaha Hadid and Marc Newson, as well as some of Raf Simons’ college work. None of it has been seen before.

“I did try to feel like, ‘Think Pink,’ ” says Jones of his guest stint as a magazine editor. “Editing things down is what an editor does. I wanted to edit things up, make it a fantastic showcase. I didn’t want to be restricted by this season’s story. But I didn’t want to be timeless, either. Always what’s interesting for me is doing an amazing hat for Marc or Raf, but then making a baseball cap for a young Japanese guy who comes into the shop. I love variety. That’s what the magazine is about.”

style.com

 

[mistress_f]

some previews:

"Dita in a Top Hat," by David Downton

"Vivienne Westwood Fall 2010 Look 53," by Richard Kilroy

"Upstage Downstage," a portrait of Leigh Bowery by Donald Urquhart

"Comme des Garçons Women's Spring 2012 Look 29," by Howard Tangye

all style.com

 

[Scott]

about bloody time it's somebody interesting again! the illustrated aspects actually kind of remind me of the initial incarnation of A magazine(when they used the actual alphabet)...and i love the tribute to anna piaggi. perfectly appropriate for stephen,A and the fact this is in belgium since she supported so many of the designers.

 

[Pricciao]

I wish they still keep the big A on the cover

 

[YoninahAliza]

I think it's wonderful that Stephen wanted to pay tribute to Anna, it's a sweet nod to their friendship and her legendary work in the industry. And I love the concept of illustration, it's creative and interesting.

 

[mistress_f]

more previews:

The Aalto University collection of Elina Laitinen, Tiia Siren & Siiri Raasakka illustrated by Johanna Härkönen

a magazine's facebook page

 

[MulletProof]

Illustration galore . Love it, can't wait to get my hands on this..

 

[haoshcn]

Wow, this is lovely! I wonder when this would be out. It's been a while since their last issue, right? I even thought it's been shut down. I got to say I was kind of losing interest in A Magazine. I had bought almost every issue until the Giambattista Valli one, which I didn't find terribly interesting either. Sometimes a collection of photographs only speaking a lot to the edtitor's personal experience don't make a good fashion magazine.

 

[Flashbang]

The cover of the magazine..



Facebook/A Magazine

 

[Scott]

the cover looks fantastic. reminds me a little bit like dirk van saene's first issue of the magazine. bringing back a lot of the old spirit again....i love it!!

i agree haoshcn. as much as i've loved this magazine and the approach since the very beginning(pre-MMM,that is),the last few have been horribly commercial and uninspired,imo. they went away from the foundation and ideals the concept set forth....and i haven't bought a single one since riccardo's issue.

 

[Scott]

btw,i just wanted to point out that part of the reason i believe the magazine has changed so much is that kaat debo is no longer ed & chief nor are luc franken and phil wright and art director paul boudens the latter whom were with the magazine since its initial inception(the dirk van saene,bernhard and chalyan days). aussie journo dan thawley now edits the mag and they got a new art direction team as well. it really seems to be the reason the magazine's vision has significantly shifted following branquinho's curated issue. which was the last i actually enjoyed.

 

[Avant Garde]

Issue looks amazing! Has anyone seen it for sale in any London stores?

 

[Pricciao]

btw,i just wanted to point out that part of the reason i believe the magazine has changed so much is that kaat debo is no longer ed & chief nor are luc franken and phil wright and art director paul boudens the latter whom were with the magazine since its initial inception(the dirk van saene,bernhard and chalyan days). aussie journo dan thawley now edits the mag and they got a new art direction team as well. it really seems to be the reason the magazine's vision has significantly shifted following branquinho's curated issue. which was the last i actually enjoyed.

yes it changed a lot that I don't quite expect, cuz they practically used different crew every issue. apparently Paul had the whole aesthetic in charge, I'm eager to know how this issue will be like since it's the first one after Paul's depart.

 

[Scott]

well they've always kept the same team who ran the magazine involved and collaborated with whomever the curator invites to contribute. but they've completely changed the whole background narrative now.

to me what has lacked in the last few is that comprehensive sense of idiosyncratic of the creator....it just hasn't felt wholeheartedly authentic for a while. it's been watered down a lot--if just the choices in their curators haven't been indicative enough. but hopefully this issue will be a step in the right direction.

 

[JuiceMajor]

Luvly illustration!