Alaïa S/S 2022 Paris

[GivenchyAddict]

I could not focus much on the clothes as the shoes killed most of the silhouettes. And these shoes are not from Alaia - bad mules and clogs.

Besides that, you all said it all. I saw the looks and felt like a big mash up when he should have focused on part of alaia's archive he feels close to and "played" with it.

Anyway, he is still more promising than most of the designers we have currently including his former boss Raf.

 

[perhydrol]

I think this debut is confusing on many levels.

First of all, what's the reason behind waiting to reveal the pictures and video from the show? It was yesterday and the guests had already killed the anticipation with their social media posts. The show itself was confusing, too. I don't think making one show for both couture and ready-to-wear makes sense, even if, according to Pieter, the line between the divisions is really thin. It made the message even more diluted.

The clothes themselves are confusing. On paper, it's all about Alaia. We got all his codes and iconic silhouettes. However, there's something wrong with the execution. It's the most visible in the 'white shirt' part and Rianne's gown. It might be the choice of fabric that makes the silhouettes awkward. Look #34 is the worst and should be edited out. I also echo all the comments about insecurities. They are really visible and I'm not sure whether Pieter will manage to overcome them. I hope he'll find the essence of the brand instead of exploring the archives in the future. This show was more about the latter, so the outcome was more like scratching the surface instead of digging deep. At least he has time for that because, well, it's Alaia. I'm also surprised that there are hints of sensuality in those clothes. Let's see if Mulier will explore that part of heritage.

Alaia need to sort things out before the next show. They need to really think about the production of the show and the execution of ideas. As a debut, it really could have been worse. The best look is the one on Marte Mei, the coat is just beautiful.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[jeanclaude]

To my understanding, only a portion of these looks are Haute Couture. The majority of this is ready-to-wear for Spring Summer 2022.

Then it´s worse, because you can´t tell which one is haute couture...and which one is RTW!

 

[GivenchyAddict]

The strongest asset of Alaia is that he knew to perfectly edit : the choice of the garment, the length, the color choices then the casting, the hair etc.

He managed to make things look easy and simple where they were not. My advice for Pieter is truly to bring Carlyne or Joe back. They were his fashion consultants and they know how to edit.

 

[THD96]

It's too young for Alaia. This collection is for IG girls when an Alaia collection should be for women that have a distinct taste.

Some of the looks just doesn't look really well executed and too much unnecessary details on the clothes., and that not good for Alaia. Like those 2 fringe dresses, they look good on their own but the fringe really drag down the dresses. The cage dress with metallic balls and transparent raincoat is just doesn't fit in Alaia universe.

 

[Marc10]

Solid debut. I think he managed to walk the tightrope of updating the archives and signatures of Alaia without losing its essence. This feels glamorous and feminine, and also very contemporary and desirable. That's a good balance, one that I hope he can continue on. Really happy for Pieter, it's lovely to see someone talented like him finally having his moment.

Obsessed with that crop top/skirt look on Mona, so fab.

 

[Deleted member 167090]

Though I don't have high expectations, I would advise them to reissue Le Maestro archive pieces, which are more timeless and modern than this offering. Please bring back the brand's sexuality and sensuality at its core!

 

[Starry]

Some of the looks just doesn't look really well executed and too much unnecessary details on the clothes., and that not good for Alaia. Like those 2 fringe dresses, they look good on their own but the fringe really drag down the dresses.

Those two fringe dresses remind me of some of the problematic designs he and Raf co-worked for Calvin Klein...

 

[Phuel]

Because of who he is associated with, I never had hope in his Alaia. Unfortunately, it is as cold, lifeless— and just devoid of the warmth, smoulder and feminine allure that defined the best of Alaia, as I was hoping it wouldn’t be. And las dior mentioned, some looks look cheap, to boot. There isn’t any soul there. The opening look and the snakeskin trench with the bodysuit are the only looks providing some Alaia heat and smoulder.

Reminds me of when Sarah just wrangled together all the familiar/famous McQueen tropes to desperately remind everyone that it’s Alexander McQueen, but it all felt and look like a hollow designer imposter. At least with Sarah, she’s moving away from the forced tropes and trappings of McQueen-impostor, and into her own strengths as a tailor and dressmaker more and more these days. This is worse because like Lola pointed out— every piece of design that Azzedine included in his presentation, were designed to be worn by women-- whereas this feels and looks so Frankenstein’s Monster overwrought/overdone/overcooked and yet still so incomplete. He has no sense of intuition, flow and lightness nor understanding of what made Alaia looked so effortless on women. I don’t care if this is his first go or if he's a gentleman: He’s a seasoned vet so I have no time to wait for him to come into his own: It’s more Raf-doing-Alaia than anything else, frankly.

Thanks for posting the complete collection, @vogue28.

 

[Lola701]

Though I don't have high expectations, I would advise them to reissue Le Maestro archive pieces, which are more timeless and modern than this offering. Please bring back the brand's sexuality and sensuality at its core!

They have been doing it for years now. They even started to name the reissues « editions » when Alaia died.

 

[GreyVetiver]

I actually feel relieved when I watched the collection, as I was really afraid that he was going to do the same kind of pretentious and "intellectual" collection like Raf. Having said that, what I have always loved about Alaia is how fabulous the shoes are, and I cannot find a single pair that I like. And those fringe boots on Rianne are absolutely hideous. I hope he can define a more focused vision next season and wow us. I really want him to succeed.

 

[velvetandsilk]

Alaia is so iconic and timeless that maybe they could have survived without Pieter.

They have huge archive.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Lacks the heightened sensuality and sophistication of Alaïa, which really is the essence of the house. Maybe not sexiness in recent times but I think there was always an emphasis on the dress, or skirt, or coat that hugs the body in a way that could only be exexuted by a true lover of the female form. I don't think Pieter fits that description and it's not something that can be learned or acquired.

More concrete shortcomings can be seen in the awful shoes, poor flow from one look to the next and unnecessary details such as the fringe or the poorly incorporated hoods.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Looking at it again...I'm sorry, but this is legit Proenza Schouler level. Sad.

 

[Frederic01]

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