Alaïa S/S 2023 Paris

[JohannesL]

VIA WWD

 

[JohannesL]

via WWD

 

[JohannesL]

via WWD

 

[JohannesL]

via WWD

 

[JohannesL]

via WWD

 

[JohannesL]

via WWD

 

[JohannesL]

via WWD

 

[YohjiAddict]

Confusing. Some ensembles are straight out of a very cheap cabaret show (the mirrored look!), some others are interesting but unwearable (the giant coats) and one or two actually make sense for this brand (Mica’s bodysuit).

The raw edged leathers and the rows of cheap-looking pearls are more than questionable and only contribute to the overall sensation of directionless chaos.

It would be near impossible to not have some redeeming looks, considering the atelier’s expertise, but there are some abhorrent creations too…although not as bad as the knee-curtains from last time, those will hunt me to my grave.

 

[THD96]

Tbh I don't hate it as much as the last season, there are some looks that I love but still, I'm not convinced with Pieter's vision for Alaïa.

It's better than last season, I guessed the only way is up from the last collection.

I see a hint of Nicolas here and there throughout the entire collection, which is understandable since Nicolas was inspired by Alaïa a lot. I prefer Nicolas's version because it has more confidence. Here, Pieter still has some doubts and it shows in the collection.

The first few bodysuits are good, and look number 9 burgundy oversized coat is sublime and the coat after that is my favorite of this collection.

And then it goes downhill, look 7 fringe coats look like a rejected BV. And I hate the gimmicky styling like the fringe scarves with the fringe bags and the pearl necklaces styled with denim, it is just so fussy and tries hard. And that mirrored look on Sherry makes no sense for the house.

I don't think Pieter understands the spirit of Alaïa, he is overanalyzed and tries to intellectualize everything, and that is not how you do Alaïa.

 

[Norden]

The collection feels unfocused and not directional enough to warrant so many statement looks.
Some of it looks great, and really capture the spirit of Alaia, but he has big shoes to fill, and hes barely filling half.

It especially goes wrong in the asymmetric looks, these feel over designed and don't necessarily flatter the body or extend the body into more interesting dimensions.
the head covers, although they refer to iconic looks feel inauthentic in spirit here, you need way more animation and drama from a model to carry such a look.

I think its impossible to revive this house with this current scale and a designer that can meet the challenge. I simply think there is none with the same spirit, taste and sense of craft.

 

[tatouejeremie]

^ yes, what's the point of all these show pieces?
it's all too much too quickly, a bit of humility is needed

they should've given the reigns alaïa's right hand instead and work from there

 

[90sFan]

Poor Azzedine :-(

 

[90sFan]

This is a bad Ungaro, after Ungaro left..

 

[Lola701]

Why is he destroying this brand and why everybody seems to enjoy it?
I think only the coats and the motorcycle bodysuit are good in this collection.

Azzedine didn’t deserved this mess. I refuse to believe that Carla Sozzani approved this mess.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I was pleased with 4 looks whose some bodysuits, it says a lot...

I really don't like Pieter at Alaia and never will.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Where’s the fun? Alaïa always imbued a joyousness/lightness into his collections alongside a mature sexiness. This has none of that whatsoever. It feels so clinical.

It is better than last season, but that was so dreadful you’d think it couldn’t get any worse. There’s some nice jackets and coats spattered about and some of the bodysuits are good (this seems to be such a go to for so many designers now though I’m frankly sick of them). It’s infuriating that this isn’t getting critiqued strong enough. This all looks so 2006-2011 “Contemporary Fashion Design” book of that makes any sense…

I actually don’t mind the shredded leather/fur looking pieces. But not for Alaïa. They’re more Rick Owens for Revillon than Alaïa.

 

[velvetandsilk]

He doesn't understand women body. Everything is so cold and deterrent. That is spring collection but look like pre-fall. Shoes is awful. His vision of fashion is very school project/ art gallery, but not fashion house.

Why is he destroying this brand and why everybody seems to enjoy it?
I think only the coats and the motorcycle bodysuit are good in this collection.

Azzedine didn’t deserved this mess. I refuse to believe that Carla Sozzani approved this mess.

They hired new CEO in 2019 - Myriam Serrano previously worked at Chloe. For two years she searched for designer and chose him...

 

[Vitamine W]

The moodboard was probably a mix of goth Kpop and Hervé Leger. Disappointing.

 

[aracic]

I like some parts, some parts I highly dislike but overall it feels rather clumsy and incohesive. It goes from Alaska winter, some boho wrap situations to a motorcycle event (my favorite part of the collection), a jungle realness and it ends with some weird take on Space Age. I'm so confused. There's so much going on and yet nothing notable is happening here. And it's too winter-y for a Spring collection.

I loved the white dress with the choker on Anok, but the weird styling with black tights and the ugly shoes is off-putting. Should've tossed the bag too.

 

[helmutnotdead]

I think someone is completely missing the point…