Alaïa F/W 2022.23 Paris

[Frederic01]

Preview from Vogue Arabia!

 

[jeanclaude]

Mother of God...there are a couple of looks which bring Alaïa to mind...but the rest...

The red lace dress, covering part of the models face, is totally Alexander McQueen (and some other looks as well).
And the flare jeans are

To Pieter Mulier: you are at Alaïa, don´t forget about that again!

 

[Frederic01]

Olivier Gabet

 

[GivenchyAddict]

He needs to leave.

Alaia is very special to my heart. It is one of theses houses that should close when the designer dies.

There are so many things with this collection that would make Alaia crazy.

 

[THD96]

I'll wait for the picture, but first impression that he seriously need a good shoe designer. None of the shoes look desirable. I'm not ready for the Aläia women to walk around with over-knees boots ... That have curtains on them. Unacceptable.

 

[Frederic01]

VOGUE RUNWAY

 

[Frederic01]

Review from Vogue Runway, with some information about the collaboration with the Picasso Foundation.

Pieter Mulier refers to the atrium in Azzedine Alaïa’s building as “the cathedral.” His nickname for the space paints an appropriate picture for the house of a departed designer with a following so devoted that Mulier got half a standing ovation when he took his bow there on Sunday evening. That’s unusual for a second collection. “We translated the DNA of Alaïa with a little bit more of what I like,” he said after the show, understandably careful not to insert himself too much into the holy grail. “It’s basically about beauty. It’s the next step after the last collection: a push forward. I didn’t want a concept. Just beautiful girls and beautiful clothes.”

Beyond Alaïa’s loyal following, Mulier is faced with bringing the brand into the consciousness of new generations. His method seems to be this: stick to the codes but turn up the volume. He did so in a collection largely dedicated to bell-bottoms derived from Azzedine Alaïa’s Spanish skirt shapes. Their presence was determined, from denim bell-bottoms to a one-legged jumpsuit bell-bottom and bell-bottoms attached to thigh-high boots that bounced up and down and looked like chopped-off bloomers. Maybe it’s a generational thing, but some of us had to think of Madonna’s Jean Paul Gaultier costume for the Holiday performance on The Blonde Ambition Tour.

The silhouette was echoed in dresses like those of Mulier’s first collection with lively mermaid hems, and in ladylike peplums on skirts that were positively polite compared to their effervescent cousins. While jaunty bell-bottoms are sure to get attention on the daily algorithm scroll of younger generations, there were more intellectually intriguing elements to Mulier’s collection. A series of knitted dresses with face coverings executed in close collaboration with the Picasso Foundation (Azzedine Alaïa was a collector and friend of the family) interpreted ceramics created by the artist in the 1940s through impressive embroideries that turned the models’ physiques into optical illusions.

“There’s a rough, pagan beauty about it. Ultimate goddesses,” Mulier said of the dresses. Exactly that component was an interesting contrast in a collection otherwise embodied by upbeat sass and glamour. They kind of cut right through the fun and made you take notice. If they inspired a surrealist streak in the collection, it was there in the biker and flight jackets Mulier morphed into body-con dresses, padding and all, or the dress made entirely out of Alaïa multi-buckle belts. Young people are loving body-con again and Alaïa wrote that book.

A variety of coats showed what a new Alaïa could also be: big, enveloping shapes borrowed from the gentleman’s wardrobe and sculpted in thick wools, then nipped-in delicately at the bottom of the back to define a feminine silhouette. Mulier said that “the little bit more” he had added of himself to the collection’s genetics was mainly tailoring-focused. That was clear in those coats, but also in louche suits and tuxedos, which accomplished a delicately oversized line that didn’t get overwhelming.

Matthieu Blazy

 

[dior_couture1245]

Absolutely atrocious. ATROCIOUS.

 

[TianCouture]

brutally astoundingly hideously bad

 

[jeanclaude]

This guy does not care about Alaïa at all...a collaboration with Picasso Foundation? Give him time till he launchs a collab with Supreme...

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I'm kind of confused as to how almost zero industry people ever publicly critique anything. Ever. All reviews of this I've seen so far have been . I want someone to write an article saying "this is f*cking stupid". Maybe there would be some sort of cultural reset. So tired of e v e r y o n e jerking each other off

 

[YohjiAddict]

Disastrous show! Clearly, he has NO idea of what it means to flatter a woman…those boots are vile. To add insult to injury, many of the garments look impossible to walk in and that’s not Alaïa at all!

Vogue clearly rewriting history by claiming that Alaïa never did masculine inspired outerwear…you just need to look at his work from the 80’s! Which remains lightyears ahead of whatever the hell this is…

 

[Sai]

I'm kind of confused as to how almost zero industry people ever publicly critique anything. Ever. All reviews of this I've seen so far have been . I want someone to write an article saying "this is f*cking stupid". Maybe there would be some sort of cultural reset. So tired of e v e r y o n e jerking each other off

Bravo. well said !!

 

[Frederic01]

VOGUE RUNWAY

 

[Frederic01]

VOGUE RUNWAY

 

[Frederic01]

VOGUE RUNWAY

 

[Norden]

It’s a complete mess. This collection could’ve used a concept to edit it and give it some focus.
I feel like he doesn’t have the eye to see real beauty, like an optimistic playful beauty. His work feel insincere and pretentious. It’s not it.

 

[Bernie Flood]

Reminds me of YSL by Stefano Pilati

 

[Lola701]

What a mess….
Pieter is lucky that Alaia’s partner isn’t like Pierre Bergé. He would have received the same letters Pierre sent to Tom.

In 15 minutes on the runway, he really destroyed 50 years of legacy (talk about being dramatic lol).

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I would love to talk to Naomi Campbell about what she thinks of this. Just imagine the shade.