Alexander McQueen S/S 2019 Paris

The craftsmanship is exquisard as always, but all in all, not my favorite McQueen collection. Some silhouettes aren't very flattering at all.
 
Why do I always have the impression that Sarah Burton´s collections are similar to each other? Oh wait...because she always makes more or less the same things each season!

Her stucked idea of McQueen style once again. Sarah McQueen or Alexander McBurton? In any case I am fed up of her way of dressing the models like human dolls: very fragile, very static and very boring!!
 
There was a little hope for a change after FW collection, but she is back to her girly laces, frills and embroidered flowers once again
 
The press always fantasize about the idea of women designers...
Sarah, like Maria Grazia, Nadège and Julie, is not helping the cause.

Why, instead of this fake edgy stuff, she is not putting the fairly good commercial collections she is doing for the pre-collections?
 
Her menswear is 100 times better. They need a new womenswear person ASAP.
 
While I like Sarah Burton, this feels really phoned in and redundant...

All of these pieces we’ve seen before...even down to the braid pony tails.
 
The press always fantasize about the idea of women designers...
Sarah, like Maria Grazia, Nadège and Julie, is not helping the cause.

Why, instead of this fake edgy stuff, she is not putting the fairly good commercial collections she is doing for the pre-collections?
I completely agree.

The press harping on and on about needing more female designers doesn’t ultimately add up. It’s a ridiculous argument, anyway. What we really need? More TALENTED designers.

Don’t forget to add to your list Clare Waight Keller...a competent designer, but one who ultimately isn’t bringing anything to the table...not unlike the list you’ve already mentioned.

The press acts like women have been restricted from being design directors when that simple isn’t true, historically or currently. Firstly, during the golden age of Couture, many, many houses were founded by women. Secondly, in the current landscape, who are three of the most respected, adulated, revolutionary and impactful designers in the industry? Rei, Miuccia and Phoebe.

Ultimately, it should not matter at all whether you are a man or a woman when it comes to being a designer. It should only matter if you have something worthwhile to offer. And in this particular case, Sarah Burton has made it very clear she has nothing to bring to the table. Her work is beyond trite and cliché and extremely one-dimensional.
 
I love Sarah's work but I do find this quite uninspired and too similar to her previous collections.
 
At this point you can literally trace the similarities straight to her debut collection. Sarah is monotonous and there's nothing we can about that. However, her recent collections are getting a bit interesting. As it includes more tailored looks that posses a stimulating practice of draping and pattern cutting. Maybe the house acquired a capable Lead/Assistant designer? Hopefully they did, because we would finally have an Heir to replace Sarah.
 
For me, the name "Alexander McQueen" has such a magic about it. I'm so ready to love that label again, but I can't help but being disappointed everytime I see a collection from her. I think I could enjoy at least some of those looks if they didn't come by the name of Alexander McQueen.
 
Everybody thought the brand was going to die under her hands and it’s almost 10 years now. Maybe this aesthetic is working for them and that’s why she’s insisting.

It’s beautiful no matter what.
 
It’s clearly working from a business standpoint...

The monotony of Burton’s work speaks both of her limitations, but also that, despite her creative shortcomings, she has a customer base who buys.

Try going into a McQueen store, though. It’s tragic. Honestly - some of the tackiest, trashiest, most garish clothes and accessories I’ve ever seen. It’s almost a joke. Everything is suffocatingly encrusted and weighs a ton and looks beyond cheap.
 
It’s clearly working from a business standpoint..
When I go to some « international women business meetings » or when in the more corporate world, you talk a little bit about fashion, McQueen (with Valentino) is certainly one of the most mentionned name.

In this type of event, fashion has more to do with Power, name-dropping than style. But those women are buying the tailoring or the very structured dresses or something that has a peplum.

But those women don’t know about or care about Burton. They are buying the idea of extreme avant-garde high fashion installed by Lee.

Plus, McQueen is not that expensive when you compared to a lot of brands.
 
There are some pieces that reminded me a lot of Givenchy by Tisci collections, specially the ones with the leather belts and the one on Lineisy Montero.
 
I have loved McQueen since the nineties and I really wanted to brand to cease when Lee did. Sarah’s same-same, heavily embellished and often unflattering designs don’t resonate with me. I can’t see these as freeing, armour like and empowering clothes which is what the McQueen aesthetic always was. There no newness, no commentary in this collection which, with fashion in its current state, is very much needed by a power house that has previously represented women so well.
 

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