Alexander Wang F/W 12.13 New York

[ScarlettLover]

After a disastrous collection last season, Wang has finally redeemed himself. I personally love this collection, I think it is incredibly modern and strong.

 

[Donatello89]

it looks comfortable ! I like use of white in winter collections, as gucci did it really good last winter

 

[KaraDanielle11]

I definitely think the stage/set and the mirrors are what made the show. It was cool looking but also a great way for buyers/editors/us to see the pieces as a whole rather than just the front quickly and then the back quickly. That said, I'm not sure how I feel about the collection itself just yet. I am obsessed with the white wool coat though!

 

[Miss Dalloway]

I feel like this collection smacks on the head, and you are left with the buzzing sound for a while. Why so aggressive? If the styling was pared down, some of the nice coats would be more evident.

 

[lelaid]

god damn that is some jacked styling...

 

[lmelanie]

i loved this show. Not only because I am a big fan of Wang but he really did what he does well. The post apocalyptic muse seemed to be right on. Something that I'm expecting from a lot of the designers since it is 2012. The casting was brilliant and he made the show more of a performance art piece. Either way, great show and I'm def looking forward to the backstage videos to come.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

Style.com's review (truncated Interesting to know about the custom made fabrics.

Wang continued the trompe l'oeil theme of his pre-fall collection, this time taking "a surrealistic approach to fabric manipulation," as he explained in a preview. "It's this idea of shrink-wrap, lamination, covering up, lacquering." Nearly every surface seemed to have a slick sheen or gloss. He lacquered the tweeds on coats, hooded jackets, and even chunky wool sweaters. Leathers were glossy and seamless, and suede pants and coats came with waxed panels. The clothes themselves were also covered up. Wang sent out mid-calf-length skirts (with those great, soon-to-be-ubiquitous knee-high boots), buttoned-up coats, and fishnet turtlenecks pulled up over models' faces. This was definitely Wang in a more grown-up, if not dystopian, mode. (Those turtlenecks recalled surgical flu masks.) His designs exuded a new precision, as well as a new, expensive polish. And we're not just talking about the all-gold hardware. Ninety percent of the fabrics here were custom developed, and it showed.

Lately Wang has been shrinking from his so-called downtown reputation. But he also recognizes that his cool factor is part of his stock-in-trade. Witness his T campaign featuring freaky-cool, of-the-moment South African rap group Die Antwoord, who attended the show today. Wang, much like his fellow New York talent Marc Jacobs, is proving he can play to both sides. To wit, his new Pelican bags in vachetta leather. Their raised geometric motif may have been inspired by industrial metal crates, but they looked as structured and finessed as it gets.

 

[Machinegumm]

I love how the coats look like armor.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

this season NY is looking like Paris with some designers

 

[Crying Diamonds]

This has to be Alexander Wang's strongest collection to date - the cheap flapping oversized draw-string looks have been replaced with rigid leatherwork reminiscent of those cocoon coats at Balenciaga 08-09.
Though I do not feel that all of the looks work, there are some undeniably wearable, entirely luxurious and desirable coats in this collection that would survive more than one season. Tweed hooded coats finished with a plastic visor-like edging
One of my only hang-ups in this collection is the type of leather used on a few of the coats (see picture), they appear to be made of recycled Balenciaga handbags, and it makes them look cheap, when they certainly would not be.

style.com

 

[Tentacl Ventricl]

I agree with the post-apocalyptic assessment, and I really loved the use of mirrors, how the models stopped and looked in them. This reminds me, in tone, of last Fall's Marc Jacobs show, with all the "hard edged" shine, but Jacob's looks with all the pencil skirts, pill box hats and polka dots, was retro. Wang's take this year is definitely futuristic. And I am sold on it. The military inspired leather, the encase shiny mesh, the black gauze and down. It's all about protection and survival. It's clever and coherent, it makes a statement. SMART SHOW!!

I do see this yes but I think the collection also has another dimension beyond functionalism. And that's it's the interplay that makes it so interesting. That other dimension - it's also very sexy.

The mesh rollnecks worn up as oral masks can also be read along lines of sensory deprivation. And with all the leather and high boots that reading becomes all the stronger.

And that same mesh being concealed under the outerwear posits a play of hiding and showing. Wang entered the tease by asking us to imagine the remainder of the inner layer.

And if you're just doing a survivalist political message I don't think you go with quite so lustrous a shine in the fabrication. The sheen has an element of eroticism.

So not just armour, survival of the fittest or save the planet but Eros and Thanatos too. If the Wang woman finds herself in a post-apocalyptic world this season she's it's perfect femme fatale.

A fantastic collection and I agree that Wang has migrated from his riffing on American sportswear in favour of a more Parisian aesthetic.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

Yes, I see the presence/absence play. And the tough chic can definitely be erotic too. Good point!

 

[helmut.newton]

HQ's anyone? The coats look amazing in detail! And I love the accessories! The bags inspired by gun bags and those boots!

This was a strong collection overall. His Fall Winter collections are always much stronger than his Spring Summer.

 

[Lee MG Tisci]

 

[RedandNavy]

I had to think a little and come back to the pictures to find out whether I like this or not.

I don't like it. The fabrics look cheap, the cuts are unflattering, the colors don't excite me... I don't see one piece that looks stunning to me. Yet another season when I feel like I should see the genius that is Alexander Wang but somehow he just doesn't speak to me.

 

[WilhelmF]

what a joke. And I thought he was moving in a positive direction after his pre-fall.

 

[ForChicSake]

loved this gosh all that amazing leather

 

[Niusity]

Ugh, there always like some pieces I like from his collections, I can't see anything good about this one.

Shelton123 is right, he's trying way too hard!

 

[Chris_Couture05]

It was'nt that great but it was'nt that bad either. I liked a lot of the leather peices and the rouched chiffon looks aswell

 

[JuiceMajor]

his design has gone from good to pretentious!