Altuzarra Resort 2016

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Twitter/Vanessa Friedman

 

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By Jessica Iredale

“I was really interested in the idea of color and texture,” said Joseph Altuzarra, as a model in a slimly tailored white suit, plain but for the subtle fringed seams, opened his resort presentation. If the look didn’t exactly illustrate his point, it provided the fundamentals on which the collection was built: tidy yet subtly sensual tailoring and texture that accented the body. From there, Altuzarra’s thesis unfolded beautifully in a lineup that honored the commercial demands of the pre-collections while progressing his aesthetic.

Altuzarra’s sharp tailoring was softer, less severe on bright sheath dresses and jackets shown with elongated, flared trousers. A vivid mix of pale pink, red, cobalt blue and yellow came in ikat and elaborate embroidered fringe draped on lean shirts and dresses, offering a whiff of the tribal attitude with which the designer has worked before. But he also experimented with color in a new minimalist way: Maxi T-shirt dresses with color-blocked suede and leather stripes felt fresh and directional for the collection.

Handbags, now in their second season, were developed with intricate leather work that reflected the color work in the clothes. For shoes, exuberantly feathered sandals that resembled multicolored feather dusters, gave the otherwise chicly grounded collection a touch of impulsiveness.

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[Kite]

Jesus christ what a mess.

 

[perhydrol]

Oh my God. It's like Cavalli on acid and it's not a good thing. And what's wrong with these shoes? Every pair is so bad.

 

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Full Collection



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[GivenchyHomme]

The suit's are great, unfortunately the rest is a hot mess.

 

[lelaid]

The prints and shoes aren't working but beyond that I like it.

 

[Rigida]

Tbh I don't see anything wrong with this collection. I like it! If you look at the pieces one by one its more interesting, and I love the colors too.

 

[Phuel]

I've no idea how this man is able to maintain a label of his own. Everything he designs is a heavy-handed, charmless knock-off of greater designers. Here, it's Miuccia, Frida and Cavalli. Such "talent" is best reserved for department-store versions of high fashion.

In Joseph's case, I guess good looks really does take one quite far.

 

[Lola701]

It's a good collection, as usual with him.
But what i'm missing from Altuzarra is a real point of view, a passion...
When i'm looking this and his others shows, i can see that he is someone who knows his classics. He was/is inspired by his favorite designers: Nicolas Ghesquière, Riccardo Tisci, Helmut Lang & Tom Ford.
Everything is perfect in his work but it is not inspiring at all. He is not taking risks and maybe having his own fashion house was a little bit too ambitious for him.

I really want him to be in a big fashion house (maybe Bottega Veneta). Maybe he will finally find his own voice.

It's a pity that out of all this fabulous clothes, i don't find something strong enough to make me want to go and buy Altuzarra.