Ann Demeulemeester F/W 2018.19 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Phuel]

Oh I just adore this. Going back back back to the mid-90s for sinister Nick Cave-esque Ann. So lush and so sharp.

Such a restrained, but full of mood and effortless attitude.

Thanks vogue28

 

[Machinegumm]

My favourite collection so far! Meunier never disappoints.

 

[Nocturnal]

Love it! Black and white looks are my favourite.

 

[Nymphaea]

Great collection, but a bit too repetitive.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Nothing against a good pair of Ann Demeulemeester boots, but I hate it when her (or rather, his) runway looks like the accessories' department of her company piled up all the gloves, belts and boots on the runway. While it all looks very cinematic and picture perfect, it's also a little bit too far into costume-y territory for my taste.

The charm of Ann Demeulemeester by Ann herself was that she dressed real women with character that found her clothes to be trusted companions in their active lives. For me this feels by far less rooted in reality than when people ditch The Row for dressing a woman that lounges in her mansion all day long.

 

[readings]

Love forever.

 

[sore]

Nothing against a good pair of Ann Demeulemeester boots, but I hate it when her (or rather, his) runway looks like the accessories' department of her company piled up all the gloves, belts and boots on the runway. While it all looks very cinematic and picture perfect, it's also a little bit too far into costume-y territory for my taste.

The charm of Ann Demeulemeester by Ann herself was that she dressed real women with character that found her clothes to be trusted companions in their active lives. For me this feels by far less rooted in reality than when people ditch The Row for dressing a woman that lounges in her mansion all day long.

Interesting. For me it was the complete opposite.
I think styled differently, most of the pieces are wearable, and I would certainly wear many of the pieces, especially the tops and the outerwear, toned down with just a pair of black jeans. (Edit: Thinking about it: I WANT THEM ALL)
I don't mind the accessories either, they seem a bit heavy on some looks, but I think it looks mostly very balanced.
(That being said, imagine the outcry the day we see an actually wearable collection from him.)

For me, this is the most refined Ann collection in a while. I lost interested in the brand a while ago, but this was certainly a nice surprise.

 

[MulletProof]

For me this feels by far less rooted in reality than when people ditch The Row for dressing a woman that lounges in her mansion all day long.

Both are soulless and out of touch in my eyes. I like the idea of settling for watered down or crude remakes because hey, you get to relive 2002 or purchase pieces you can only find in a museum's freezer now, but settling feels so sad in every aspect of life.

I look at this and yes it's very much everything I always loved about Ann Demeulemeester's work and yet it does nothing for me, it's too harsh, too perfectly assembled and tribute-y and lacking warmth, like a doodle someone random like me would come up with to sum up Ann Demeulemeester.. not unlike these twin celebrities' work, I see them and yup, everything I love there too but with the starvation and calculating eyes of a celebrity that realised that being a celebrity is kind of tacky, that a perfume or a fashion line is any celebrity's vanity project (and a joke) and that undeniable level of authority is only obtained from that microscopic, Japanese design-loving intellectual group everyone else just nods to and wouldn't dare questioning.. and you know, that's not a crime, I would definitely want that over catering to the godawful Versace/Hedi Slimane demographic, but what kills it is the solemnity, that self-righteousness that smacks you in the face.. when I see their work (and then the prices), I just find it so insufferable and opportunistic and standard Hollywood celebrity BS that.. I just pretend I didn't see anything for my own good. Same for this. Except I'm here today.

 

[Lola701]

It's a very good collection. I actually like it but i totally get what Mulletproof and Tricotineacetat said.

Everything is styled to the point! It's extreme master styling here and the thing is that i'm sure that the pieces broken apart are totally fine and wearable but i also feel like the pieces lost their effect that way. Without the gloves, the belts, the boots it may just look very generic and anybody who will want to buy it will also want to keep the effect or the spirit of the runway show...

The boots are mad! I love them! I have to have them!

 

[Phuel]

I adore your cynicism, Mullet.

In the most mediocre of all fashion eras, this— and the Olsens, are the last individuals I’d wish to see your wrath directed towards, though. I get you, babe, just that as contrived, and as rather reductive as this may all seem to be, there’s still a reference point that seems sincere to its OG source, rather than this obnoxious, desperate begging to be down with the kidz that so many more venerable labels have shamefully, and fully given in to. Or the most unforgivable fashion sin as far as I’m concerned: these overhyped lessors like JW and Jacquemus, just all such basic a poor poor poorman’s versions-- and sloppy versions, of Phoebe. These two charlatans are the most soulless of all the lessors. (And has be loving this collection even more for its nostalgia factor, admittedly. Likely their best since the first showing without Ann.)

 

[helmutnotdead]

Is it capturing the DNA of Ann Demeulemeester? Yes.
Is this quite dark, incredibly wearable and strong? Absolutely.
Truth to be told, this is kind of amazing. A masterful proposal.

My only problem with this is that I've seen all this before. The collection should be called "Ann Demeulemeester Greatest Hits". I mean, he's not offering nothing new to the clientele. And I wouldn't spend my money in something that I bought in 2011.

 

[MulletProof]

These two charlatans are the most soulless of all the lessors.

haha

To be honest, I try not to pay much attention to how deep fashion sinks. It's down there for sure and I'm somewhat versed on what is to blame and who the termites are, but there is such a thing as observing for too long and knowing too much and how you then look back at the things you only liked with deeper affection or even love because they exist at all.

This reminds me of when I called Victoria Beckham vulgar (because she is?) and someone was like "doesn't make any sense, in a time when the Kardashians exist...". Now let's imagine this totally surreal scenario when you wake up by accident in the trash and go back home and even your laundry basket looks so pristine after all the filthy horrors you've seen, so you give it a few more shots. Or say, you end up with a reality-tv star as your president that suddenly makes s*it politicians seem "good" because at least they don't have cognitive issues. Let's not lower standards to the ground just because times are bad.. bad is bad, it doesn't become good just because there's worse than bad.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

I like the shearling pieces; they feel grounded and yet new. Maybe something to build on there?

The white and ivory blouses bring a levity, poetry & romance that recalls Ann-D, too.

 

[FashionMuseDior]

It's like this sort of street warrior prepared for the next war. I like it.