AZ Factory S/S 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

Designed by Lutz Huelle:



VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[dodencebt]

I had no idea Lutz was designing for AZ Factory this season, and when I got to the last photo on Vogue Runway I was like "Of course". There are some incredibly desirable everyday clothes here. Love the sequin denim jackets so much!

 

[Scotty]

That print is so ugly. Alber had better taste than that.

 

[WAVES]

a different print would’ve made a HUGE difference. who looks at that and thinks ‘oh, such a good print’ ??

interesting pieces though.

 

[jeanclaude]

The first looks makes you think about Alber...then it goes downhill to nowhere...

 

[Machinegumm]

That print is atrocious.

 

[YohjiAddict]

The first look with its reference to Alber’s S/S 2012 for Lanvin is quite good. The pants are gorgeous too. The jacket in look 18 is quite beautiful, it really represents Lutz’s talent for taking an everyday garment and turning it into something fabulous.

The print does look like it belongs on an ugly couch or a plastic tablecloth you would find in a home for the elderly, so it’s unfortunate that it’s featured so prominently.

 

[donyan]

more background about the collaboration

 

[disco54]

That floral print is horrifying, Alber would never do that sh!t

 

[donyan]

It’s missing the little edge that characterizes his best work for me but there are a lot of things to love for me. The location looks like a gallery

 

[Norden]

I have a soft spot for him. But his weakness is styling and taste. It just mostly looks really really cheap. He could have used this platform to elevate himself. It’s a missed opportunity

 

[Cocteau Stone]

LUTZ!!!!!!

I really was rooting for him with this but he really let me down. The moment the first inkling of floral hit, it went down hill...

Honestly, had there been no print at all and just really well considered colours - like some Alber jewel tones - with injections of high quality paillettes this could have been a lot better. It feels a little too safe, too stale when a glamourous essence should have been amped up much more. I don't think AZ has the strongest textiles at their disposal at this current point in time, so there's definitely going to be some limitations with that.

 

[Lola701]

I love Lutz and for me this announcement felt like maybe the beginning of something new, close to what we never really experienced with his Delpozo.
This is just a regular but bad Lutz collection under the label AZ Factory.

One of the fabric I associate the most with Alber is Satin Duchesse and I wish maybe he elevated his aesthetic by using Alber’s fabrics…
Beyond satin duchesse, satin lavé, gros-grain..

 

[donyan]

Someone told me over the weekend that work on the collection only started in June, and his brief was apparently just a capsule, not as a homage to Alber but more in the spirit of designers close in spirit to Alber's values., Alber apparently appreciated Lutz' work.
It only turned into a bigger collection and then eventually a show after he started working and the bosses liked what they saw, but the budgets were restricted and not comparable to when Alber was there.
I'm in two minds about this collection. It's true I expected a show of the level of Lanvin or at least the first 2 AZ FActory shows and was disappointed at the lack of the kind of opulent and luxurious feel I associate with Alber's best work. But I like Lutz and can see where he wanted to take this, even with the obvious restraints of budget, which are clearly visible in there being very few materials and the same print being over-used.
There were very positive reviews even from the French Press, which was unexpected, I did think they were going to echo the comments here.
All in all maybe a missed opportunity but maybe he did the best he could under the circumstances. I'll give him the benefit of the doubt

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I find Lutz to be very hit and miss.

I think this is a huge improvement over what the team was creating.

It's not great but there's some nice pieces here and there.

 

[donyan]

I find Lutz to be very hit and miss.

I think this is a huge improvement over what the team was creating.

It's not great but there's some nice pieces here and there.

I was curious to see what the team had created but they only have collaborations by 'amigos' available online. There is Thebe Magugu and Ester Manas and a guy called Cyril Bourez. None of it has anything much to do with Alber Elbaz, it seems more like entirely different collections bar the odd ruffle or flounce. There are some nice pieces though, and although it's not entirely clear where they are heading I'm curious to see what's next.