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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by vogue28, Dec 7, 2020.
It's too much VETEMENTS, I love Balenciaga for the sharpness and the lines, all I see is VETEMENTS look alike clothes with medieval leg warmer and a hint of oversize clothes...
When Dolly Parton said "it costs a lot of money to this cheap" Demna really felt that.
Cristobal, sweetie, I'm so sorry.
This is the most Vetements collection he's done here, some looks are even straight up revivals of Vetements looks. It's always part of his aesthetic, but in the past he at least tried make it a bit more elevated. This time seems like he didn't even try...
Don't get the whole armour gimmick too.
The boots are cool. The rest is very much in line with his work for the house.
It is obvious that Demna nowadays is way more focused into HOW to present his clothes than into WHAT his clothes are like (answer: pretty much the same as always).
And under this aspect as well, he is a symbol of his generation of designers and a harbinger of the current state of the industry in general.
p.s.: if the armor-like boots are a reference to Nicolas's SS07 collection, it is a very lame one and a further proof, if one ever needed one, of his heavy touch.
Anyone wearing a Balenciaga Gilet Jaune in Paris will look very stupid...
This looks like a retrospective already...
Randomly generated looks on Sims 4. That's all I see
Alessandro Michele is pretty much in that same boat, they've both made it clear that presentation cannot substitute content, no matter how hard you try and how much money you waste. Gucci I completely forgot about and by tomorrow I will have done the same with this one.
Galliano on the other hand demonstrates how presentation can enhance great fashion; His mini-documentaries on both his last shows, reveal the underlying layers of meaning he imbues in his clothes and underlines the team effort that makes it possible in the first place. That is presentation that complements and enhances the garments, it does not obscure them nor hide them out of fear that people notice their absolute mediocrity.
P.S: Showing rendered images instead of pictures just played against him, the garments look even flatter than usual.
I'll admit I played the videogame and it's really quite boring and a waste of time, I liked the vibe of the hiking trail that leads you to some weird rave and that moment when the bus magically morphes in front of your eyes but the characters that actually wear the clothes are just annoyances you bump into the whole time. To he honest a normal video where the models walk in these virtual lanscapes and/or a simulator that allows you to style the garments yourself would have been much more impressive.
An important message to Kering and Demna Gvasalia:
I'd find loads of pieces here to wear, even amidst all the logos and hype, and the meta approach that he has to the house is a million times more interesting than what is being done at Margiela, where the former sharp modernity of the house has been replaced by a a sort of melancholic, out-of-touch idea of fashion that feels utterly dated to me.
He tries too hard. Which is funny considering the result LOL
Which is perfect for his try-hard consumers.
To me it's super interesting that he went for a total Vetements mood. When Demna does tailoring and it's not about weird and unflattering pagoda shoulder, it's usually really good. This collection feels like a lazy attempt to 'shock' people with that armour and chavalier boots and the tailoring here is almost non-existing. The rest is so offensively ugly and could have been bought few times already during Gvasalia's tenure at the house. It's not even about taking the easy route, it's more about being burnt out and having no fresh ideas. It's not even ironic now. With this in mind, I don't want to think about his upcoming couture and I can't wait to see the news that he's already out.
Agree! The Galliano Margiela is one of the saddest things in fashion if you asked me. Does everyone have to look like a 1950s hooker?!?! The outdated sense of his design logic is probably only loved by Anna Wintour. And his British pals (Tim Blanks etc ) who are all a bit stuck in their youth of 1950s...
It's not a great one by Demna, but still more interesting than crap that's out there lolz
I saw a Twitter post last night of some account trying to defend this junk. It basically read on behalf of Cristobal speaking as if the legend himself would support this collection as it is causing a stir and is so against the norm. However, in my humble opinion, it just comes down to the fact that Demna puts absolutely no effort into the clothing. Can you imagine how naive one would sound trying to study this collection or pour over the "craftsmanship" that went into it!?!? Printed t-shirts, distressed jeans, sweatsuits, and XL coats! It is not daring or even remotely fashionable. I got thrift-shop vibes from the entire collection. I love a good thrifting adventure, but for the price points and reputation this house has it is entirely unacceptable. I enjoyed the Fall 2020 collection as the cuts and proportions were exciting, and the references were deep and meaningful (the clergy looks representing Mr. Balenciaga's ties to the church for example). In a way, I feel as though Demna is trying to copy what Miuccia did in the 1990s with her "ugly chic" collections, but how can you create a stir or incite controversy with an oversized NASA coat? I am rambling at this point, but wow, to say I am disappointed does not even begin to scratch whatever emotional pull I get from this. Perhaps he is putting more effort into his couture debut, but at this point, who knows what is happening.
Demna's concepts and ideas sound great when he explains them in interviews or press pieces. Then it's something else entirely when the clothes are there to see in material form. I have rarely felt energized or more creatively curious by looking at his collections. The presentation seems to always be where the effort and time is spent. His shows almost always have the best set designs of any runway. But we're here to look at clothes, not theater.
His clothes are tired now. I'll always take his first Balenciaga collection over anything else he's done. I feel like I see this post-war Eastern-Europe aesthetic every other season.
A bit of palate-cleanser is so much needed in this thread (from Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum in Guetaria, Spain)