Balmain F/W 2021.22 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[jeanclaude]

Olivier discovered Helmut Lang military clothes. Then he just made an 80s caricature of them.

 

[THD96]

This look like 3 different collections that have no connection with each other.

Some of the looks reminding me of Christophe Decarnin, but only worse because CD made the looks light and fun while Olivier maade them look heavy and tacky. His used of neon colors and metallic are just atrocious. That last look, tinfoils couture much.

And someone need to tell him to stop forcing that ugly Givenchy knockoff logo to us. It's not gonna work.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I also see Helmut Lang, Tisci already made bank for Givenchy by glamorizing Lang's ideas but I don't think it works here. The cheesy Michael Kors background is not helping make this look like a credible fashion proposition for 2021.

I like Sarah Grace's outfit and that's all.

 

[caioherrero]

The first collection under him that I liked

 

[Lola701]

This is a good departure from what we have been used those last few years. It’s refreshing and while there are still some tacky details (too much gaudy accessories and quilted details) there are pieces and silhouettes that I find incredibly desirable, modern and that I would actually buy!

I see Helmut Lang, I see a bit of Ghesquiere too in the boots (the Palms Springs resort) but look 1 and 10 are the best thing I’ve seen from Olivier in a longtime! It’s modern sensuality!

And kitten heels at Balmain? Why not!

I think working with a good stylist can help Olivier to show some versatility!

 

[TaylorBinque]

Not bad. I sort of wish he edit and be more directional. The fist quarter of the show was quite nice. He can save everything else for the pre-collections. At least it's a departure to somewhere nice, hopefully.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

A part of this collection is heavily inspired by Bottega Veneta in term of proportions.
With chunky boots, soft bags, ruffled dresses...

Still it's kinda good, Balmain wise, less costum-y than the last seasons which were too "pop star doing a tour" oriented

 

[fakeawake]

All his handbag attempts have looked like Pierre Cardin for Loehmanns...

 

[gossiping]

i like the stripes and the colours the red looks really good, but there's still a lot of err...trashy style. but i like the presentation!

 

[Sai]

This show is always good for a hard laugh

 

[Phuel]

Olivier discovered Helmut Lang military clothes. Then he just made an 80s caricature of them.

His Balmain is always a high fashion caricature. At least he’s consistent.

It’s like when Gianni did “punk”… Someone like him could never really understand punk the way that Viv/Gaultier/Rei would. So it’s this OTT, glitzy, froufrou and very much a caricature of punk— with the huge shimmering golden safety pins on sexily slashed evening gowns for celebrities and debutants. Same thing here with Olivier: It’s Nicole and Paris camping it up on a farm in Wisconsin wearing Versace in The Simple Life. It’s gaudy classic eurotrash fun.

His essence is always there, I’ll give him that.

 

[perhydrol]

Do you remember Rousteing's couture collection? Yeah, this collection is even worse. I have to say that it was fun to watch the video, but the majority of the clothes is just ugly and messy in terms of silhouettes. He really needs to learn how to edit things because while his Balmain has been consistent when it comes to being loud and tacky, I don't think he can do that forever. There are looks that are really strong and appealing, but they got completely lost in the sea of ugliness.

 

[reese06]

Loud and tacky is an aesthetic and there is a market for that. He has tapped into that market and has a loyal fanbase where others seem to really be struggling and Balmain does actually sell clothing. I would guess most of the revenue does not come from his runway collection, but from t-shirts, moto denim/joggers/etc, blazers and men's shoes.

they have not had a decent handbag since they launched them and the women's shoes have not been great since Decarnin left. It's a shame really.

This is actually more edited than normal and one of his stronger recent collections. I think I have a more favorable opinion of this one because I can see some of the Decarnin references in styling, etc.

 

[jeanclaude]

His Balmain is always a high fashion caricature. At least he’s consistent.

The funny (and sad) fact here is that Olivier does not get that everything he makes gets the caricature treatment. He really takes it as seriously design!

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Yes— but that’s also a charm to what he does. It's loud/tacky/crass… and also this unwavering sincerity and (I’d like to think) genuine passion in his offering of opulence and decadence. There’s not a lick of pretension nor self-importance in his fashion :cough:JW Anderson/Raf Simons/Kim Jones:cough: nor any whiff of cynicism :cough:any/all American designer ripping off the Europeans wholesale:cough: His fashions doesn’t have women dressing like clowns and men dressing like toddlers— which is what JW and his ilks are doing in this current fashion era. I'd easily take Olivier's anytime, any day, anywhere over clownwear/infantwear.

 

[badgalcrush]

Some greats ideas ... but some IDEOUS LOOKS !!
I miss his debuts collections really..
My problem with Olivier is than he is over the place.
The guy got good ideas but it seems that he can't stop mixing them and add something to make it extra to finally turning to a whole mess and I think that's because they game him Carte Blanche to do whatever he wants.
Rousteing you need to tone down your work and we would all appreciate a bit more your work

 

[jeanclaude]

^^^ Yes— but that’s also a charm to what he does. It's loud/tacky/crass… and also this unwavering sincerity and (I’d like to think) genuine passion in his offering of opulence and decadence. .

That´s exactly the reason why I liked Gianni Versace back in the 90s...but I can´t feel the same with Olivier clothes.