Before the Shows, the Videos - NYT article

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source: nytimes.com

Before the Shows, the Videos

By ERIC WILSON
Published: September 12, 2005
There is no more egregious example of a fashion designer's self-indulgence than a runway show that opens with a tribute video. Both Kenneth Cole and Tommy Hilfiger presented 10-minute commercials for themselves on Friday that tested their audiences' patience.

Robyn Beck/Agence France-Presse/Getty Images
Kenneth Cole: High-waisted pants and looser proportions.




Both men are designers who play to the mainstream, and are famous for their marketing abilities. Mr. Cole, who is known for framing his contemporary career wear with public service campaigns, reached out to the victims of Hurricane Katrina. The designer and the models in his show donated a portion of their fees to hurricane relief, the pre-show video explained. This drew applause, until the video concluded with a groaner: "In tribute to our friends in the Gulf Coast, we stand Bayou."

Still, Mr. Cole must have been energized by rallying to another cause because this was his best collection in years, an authentic and articulate distillation of some of the more extreme trends shown by other designers last year into clothes that mainstream shoppers might now accept. For women, he offered long linen shorts and sheer blouses made of crinkle chiffon with raw-edged ruffles, and he dressed his men in Pee-Wee Herman suits cropped like those championed in recent seasons by Thom Browne.

Mr. Hilfiger's opening video made no attempt at altruism. A montage of advertisements, runway clips and gratuitous images of celebrities, it could have served as a sales brochure for the company, which is for sale. It accomplished little more than to illustrate that Mr. Hilfiger's clothes have changed little in 20 years.

For this anniversary collection, he returned to his roots, showing a whopping 100 looks that might have illustrated "The Official Preppy Handbook." Mr. Hilfiger apparently has not passed by a J. Crew, Gant or Abercrombie & Fitch store in the past year, or perhaps he would have considered that the market for pink cotton blazers and pastel pants embroidered with lobsters, lighthouses and frogs has been fully exhausted. As long as there is a middle class, there will probably be a market for polo shirts and khaki pants, and Mr. Hilfiger does a fine job of turning them out, but one has to wonder if he is simply out of ideas.

If Mr. Cole is looking out for the residents of New Orleans, Nantucketers will be glad to know Mr. Hilfiger has their back.

On Sunday evening, just as Diane von Furstenberg's models were taking their bows, a lighting fixture crashed and injured two audience members, causing editors and socialites to storm the exits. Hilary Alexander, of The Daily Telegraph of London, was taken to St. Vincent's Hospital Manhattan. Karl Treacy, a freelance writer, also left with paramedics. Ms. Von Furstenberg, who skipped her bow, appeared at the hospital later, where she said both journalists had minor injuries and were doing fine.

The incident, which took place in Ms. Von Furstenberg's studio on West 12th Street, reminded some of a Michael Kors show in the early 90's, when falling plaster from a showroom ceiling was one of the reasons the New York shows were moved to the less perilous ceilings of the Bryant Park tents.