No one mentioned anything by MGC, Anthony, Blazy, JW, PPP, Sarah B, Demna… And many of them were working 10 years ago.
It’s also a question of generation, personal taste, real aesthetic shocks and personal sensibilities.
Nobody mentioned Margiela either. The spring 2007 collection was quite an iconic and revealing moment for me (but didn’t have time to make an endless list). There’s very few Gaultier or Helmut Lang also. Those are iconic designers with iconic, game changing collections.
For me MGC doesn’t have an iconic show at Dior. She had moments. PPP had amazing Couture shows but I’m sure they are all blending on everybody’s mind because once he found that formula, he pressed it to death.
I still think their Avatar collection for Valentino was stunning. Again an aesthetic shock despite it rigorous classicism.
Demna’s first collection for Balenciaga was a fantastic collection. A game changer and something that he won’t ever top unfortunately. The same for Michele’s Gucci but it’s maybe too soon to appreciate their work while we are still trying hard to move on from their aesthetic.
Blazy’s second collection for BV was stunning but it was 3 years ago? A bit too soon to appreciate it in terms of impact and in his body of work as a solo act.
Sarah Burton’s first McQueen collection was stunning too. But too soon again?
I feel like what we can see on the lists are designers who have left a mark on the industry. Not so much people who are still building something.
I could have added Dries too. SS2009, FW2010 are my favorite collections from him. I don’t know if they left so much of an impact to be best collections of all time though.