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nytimes.comMILAN — A diary of a 1963 visit to Japan, long stored in a small box, inspired the new Brioni collection a half a century later. The designer Brendan Mullane found the diary, written by the brand’s co-founder Gaetano Savini in the archives and used it to connect the Italian fashion house to a Kyoto aesthetic.
A Japanese artisan drew a crane that became a pattern on a jacket, while the traditional kimono silhouette inspired a fresh take on tailoring with a loosely belted jacket. Mr. Mullane used the deep-color palette of an Italian master of chiaroscuro, Caravaggio, added a screen projection of falling pink cherry blossoms — and there you have the new Brioni collection.
This sartorial work of art, shown in a space framed by Japanese panels, had a powerful conviction of luxury as something quiet and beautiful.