Bruno Pieters: Antonioni in Antwerp
October 05, 2004 - Paris
The biggest star of the cerebrally chic collection presented Monday in Paris by Bruno Pieters, the fashion graduate of Antwerp, was Michelangelo Antonioni.
Not the great Italian movie director himself but his celebrated vision of the aggressiveness of American materialist culture, Zabriskie Point. That film’s brilliant images of the desolate Western deserts and parched Death Valley were projected above the models in the show in Espace Cardin, while the movie soundtrack – a weird mix of the Grateful Dead, Pink Floyd and abstract sounds - burst out of the speakers.
The choice of images was ideal for this collection, which featured a sandy or old silver colored baby doll dresses, hooded tops and safari jackets, worn with faded gold jacquard pumps.
Pieters, a 27-year-old Belgium, was a former assistant of Martin Margiela, and he shares that mysterious designers penchant for arty fashion. Like Margiela, he did not take a bow at the end of his show.
However, Pieters is far more of a genuine couturier, with an impressive ability to create novel handcrafted leather skirts and intricate tulle tops, dusted with tiny sequins. He also can cut a beautiful dress – one, an Aran extended, ragged edged Aran sweater was exceptional. Like Zabriskie Point, it was both provocative and poetic all in one go.