Cool, Colorful and Clever Burberry
June 27, 2004 - Milan
They kept the air conditioning on for three days before the Burberry show in a custom-built Milan tent Sunday before designer Christopher Bailey presented the best argument we have seen in years for men dressing head to toe in cool, colorful cottons.
Using a palette that one would normally find in a David Hockney painting, Bailey cut, chopped and generally reined in his silhouette to create one of the tighest looking collections of clothes from the UK label in memory.
Tight, but also wearable, as Bailey sent out peg leg pants in white cords, snug orange cotton slacks and super light plaid pants, worn with the snuggest of jackets whose hems ended several inches above the hips. The designer paired these with horizontal striped ties, acid green cabans or lime safari jackets.
The look was alternatively anchored by elongated white cricket shoes made in regulation standard white canvas, or jazzed up with snappy cardigans with appliqued summer flowers. Though he works for a slickly managed, albeit hip, corporate label Bailey still has enough guts to take a few arty risks and is not afraid to revamp recent fashion ideas in his own likeness. His shrunken leather jerkins recalled Rick Owens but in the hands of Bailey they evoked a far more upbeat mood that the gloomy gothic minimalism of the LA designer.
And the casting of slicked back long-haired youths summoned up the image of a racy cricketing weekend in some very fun country house, where there is the strong likeihood of lots of fun and good clean sex.
“I was a bit nervous at first as I was taking a lot of risks. But once I had the whole collection together I saw that it could work,” the whip-thin and ever modest Bailey told FWD backstage.
As if echoing his concern, Burberry CEO Rosemarie Bailey asked FWD seconds later, “It did look English didn’t it?”
Yes, very Anglo, and, more relevantly, extremely new.
Bailey opened the show soundtrack with “Shout to the Top” from Style Council. Half way through that Mod classic, Paul Weller sings out:
“I was halfway home - I was half insane,
And every shop window I looked in just looked the same.”
His line could not have been more ironic, given the context, as I saw nothing remotely like this great new Burberry collection on any fashionista or in any Milan boutique this opening weekend of the Italian season. Bring on the new.