I love it. It's a beautifully constructed and edited collection. It's kinda interesting to see how strong and directional her pre-collections are compared to the "chaos" (orchestrated chaos of course) of her main collections.
True to be to told, Philo has never been an innovator. She had some fresh ideas and new ways of interpreting things but like Marc Jacobs, she can absorb ideas and mix them in a different way. She is like a good DJ.
I remember how her first collection ever for Celine was very inspired by the work of Pilati at YSL, who did "minimalism" before anyone else at the time. Over the years, she has been inspired by the greatest: Yamamoto, Kawakubo, Margiela, Beene, Ghesquière...etc.
She was a leader of the pack because she installed a new aesthetic at a time when fashion needed to reinvent itself. Not because she was that innovative in terms of clothing.
This is obviously a Celine collection in the palette, the proportions, the styling tricks and the awkwardness.
The suits are very "Janet Jackson in Alright music videos", which means, an 80's version of 1930's fashion. I see some learly 90's Romeo Gigli in that.
The long dresses are very Tom Ford for Gucci circa 1996 meets Balenciaga resort 2013.
I also see some Nicolas Ghesquiere's Vuitton and some Prada. I mean, you cannot not think about Prada when you're seeing the thigh high boots or the sheer school girl white dress.
The knit dress with the slightly off-shoulders cut is very Balenciaga by Demna and some of the last looks are inspired by Martin Margiela's flat garnments.
It all works because she is just very clever. It all looks familiar but you cannot say it's not Celine. It has the right dose of everything and as i said earlier, it's just the best way to refresh their classics.
Phoebe's strengh is that she has put her stamp in every classic garnment. Women and men who buys Celine are not just interested in bags or sunglasses. From coats to sweaters, the whole thing is appealing and speaks also to a very cliché fashion-obsessed crowd.
She is maybe the ultimate version of a Designer's designer...