To some retailers, Mr. Costa's collection was the hands-down leader. "It set a new standard for American fashion," said Robert Burke, the fashion director for Bergdorf Goodman. "That's what American fashion should be." When Ronald Frasch, the vice chairman of Saks, was asked who had the best collection, he replied: "Calvin Klein." From the first white outfit to the last, Mr. Costa had something original to say about American ease and fabrics like cotton and organdy. And he kept the conversation going at a remarkably high level, first with a high-waist pleated skirt in cotton voile and a silk top bonded with circles of tulle, then a square-neck voile dress under a floaty piqué jacket, then a trouser suit in crisp cotton. To give weight to his airy dresses, he added a layer of voile; to give volume to a silk jersey, he added side pleats.
Mr. Costa is the most natural-thinking designer America has produced in a long time. If Calvin Klein executives are smart, they will make him creative director. They will be put him in charge of advertising. They will give him anything he wants. Because it is in their interests.
