"Catwalks: Seriously Outdated "

Lena

etre soi-meme
Joined
Jun 9, 2002
Messages
23,856
Reaction score
6
here are some extracts from a very interesting article from The Guardian,
on the way fashion industry really works :flower:

The catwalk, darling? It's so last year
Jess Cartner-Morley

....The demise of the catwalk is a reflection of its increasingly flimsy role in the industry. The Italian design duo Dolce & Gabbana recently told Italian newspaper La Repubblica that their catwalk shows were just for fun, and served no purpose in selling clothes. "The product has been sold at least two months beforehand", :shock: said Domenico Dolce. He described the clothes shown on the catwalk as "exaggerated", and said they accounted for 20% of business at most.

Prominent members of the British fashion retail industry concede that catwalk shows have become secondary to the business of selling clothes. "Around 65 or 70% of our budget is spent before the shows start," said Ivan Donovan, senior buyer for the longstanding London boutique Browns. This is especially true, he said, of brands which the store sells in high quantities, such as Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni and Jil Sander. Susanne Tide-Frater, head of creative direction for Selfridges, concurred, saying that for "meaty brands" such as Dolce & Gabbana, around 70% of buying takes place in showroom appointments some time before the catwalk collections are shown. :wink:

The shift in emphasis towards "pre-collections" - clothes sold to buyers before the show, which may have only tenuous links to the collection that appears on the catwalk - reflects the fact that while catwalk shows have become increasingly fantastical, the bread-and-butter of the retail trade remains grounded in more wearable clothes. "With Dolce & Gabbana, we can buy the more commercial pieces, the classic suits, great dresses and trousers, before we see the show, because we know what our customer will want," Mr Donovan said.

Even so, most in the industry remain wedded to the catwalk concept. "Fashion is not just about a rack of clothes," said Mr Donovan. "It's about seeing them on gorgeous women in a fabulous setting."

Ms Tide-Frater is convinced that "we can't do without shows, because they are what gets across the message of the season." She gave the example of the aftermath of September 11, when some American designers cancelled shows and displayed their wares on the internet. "It just didn't have the spark," she said. "The shows are like storytelling. And then we convey that story to the customer."

Ms Tide-Frater was speaking before the Dries Van Noten show in Paris last week. When the show began, it perfectly illustrated her point. It was staged in the imposing Ecole Nationale des Beaux Arts in the St Germain district of Paris, with foliage visible in silhouette through the picture windows at the end of the catwalk, and a soundtrack of eerie instrumental music. The floor was sprinkled with silver crystals which crunched like sugar underfoot as models emerged from a mist of dry ice. The entire event was orchestrated to echo the ethereal, fairytale mood of the clothes, bringing the collection to life and so catching the attention of stylists, editors and clients in the audience.

For smaller designers, moreover, the catwalk can still be crucial, as stores keep aside a portion of the budget to buy from collections which catch their eye on the runway. According to Mr Donovan, the Browns team attended the Sophia Kokosalaki show at London fashion week undecided as to whether to stock the collection, "but we loved the show, and so we placed a :huh: substantial order. In that case, the catwalk was crucial".

*well, it seems catwalks are now only a showcase of the collection's clever (or not) styling and co-odrination and of course a clever way for 'free' publicity of the label and its products. (still a very ...expensive 'free' service since to put up a fashion show usually cost quite a chunk of money)
since 70% of the buyer's budget is already been spent months before the shows, cheers to the new generation of designers who prefer low key-low cost 'presentations' as films or web events.

so what do you think, are catwalk shows worth the investment from a business prespective?
are they passè or not?
 
Hmm, interesting question. :ninja:

I've always regarded fashion shows as just that: shows. Hardly anyone wears looks straight off the runway, or at least I hope not. Also, I think it all depends on how you show your collections whether it makes it passé or not. The simple and boring straight runway is a little tiring and cliché. I find designers like Martin Margiela, Rei and Junya, Yohji and various others, try to incorporate their surroundings into the theme of their clothes. That's the type of show I want to see. :unsure:

Thanks for the article, Lena. :flower:
 
of course show looks are not there to be reproduced on street astrid, not even on editorial pages if you want my take on those looks.

fashion shows used to exist as traditional commercial showcases of collections, aiming first to international buyers, secondly to Press and a tiny bit to 'faithfull' customers, so i was more questioning the business side of the investment in fashion shows production, much more now that orders get already placed during pre-collections showroom presentations.

times have changed, why shows remain the same?
is it worth it as a 'free' advertisement -which is no free at all, considering fashion show productions to be the most expensive entertainment media around.

please consider, a fashion show lasts about 10-15 minutes max, then try to imagine how very expensive the production costs are, much more since it only lasts for 10 minutes. Until quite recently -lets say three/four years ago, shows were leading tool for selling a collection, so the expense was somehow 'understandable'
Now that no client waits for the shows to place orders (some dont even bother attending the shows) i wonder if they are still worth the heavy investment, which has occasionally thrown 'smaller' labels completly out of budget.
 
Originally posted by Lena@Oct 19th, 2003 - 5:03 am
of course show looks are not there to be reproduced on street astrid, not even on editorial pages if you want my take on those looks.
Yes, I understand that, Lena. :lol: No need to talk to me like I'm ignorant on the subject. I was expressing my thoughts on the presentations only as I do not know how the business side of it works.

times have changed, why shows remain the same?
is it worth it as a 'free' advertisement -which is no free at all, considering fashion show productions to be the most expensive entertainment media around.

please consider, a fashion show lasts about 10-15 minutes max, then try to imagine how very expensive the production costs are, much more since it only lasts for 10 minutes. Until quite recently -lets say three/four years ago, shows were leading tool for selling a collection, so the expense was somehow 'understandable'
Now that no client waits for the shows to place orders (some dont even bother attending the shows) i wonder if they are still worth the heavy investment, which has occasionally thrown 'smaller' labels completly out of budget.
I'm aware of how long they last. :wink: What are you suggesting? That shows should be done away with altogether? IMO, I think shows still have an importance on the selling front, maybe not as much as they used to, but any little bit helps I would think. I think some designers do spend too much money on their shows (Galliano) when they could be spending it in other ways. :huh:
 
Originally posted by Astrid21@Oct 19th, 2003 - 1:21 pm
:lol: No need to talk to me like I'm ignorant on the subject.

....I'm aware of how long they last. :wink: What are you suggesting?
:blink: i'm not suggesting anything astrid and i'm surely not thinking you -or anyone else- as "ignorant on the sublject"

i just wanted to hear FSpotter's views on the decline of the importance of the catwalks in fashion business, thats all :flower:
 
Originally posted by Lena+Oct 19th, 2003 - 5:39 am--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Lena @ Oct 19th, 2003 - 5:39 am)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-Astrid21@Oct 19th, 2003 - 1:21 pm
:lol: No need to talk to me like I'm ignorant on the subject.

....I'm aware of how long they last. :wink: What are you suggesting?
:blink: i'm not suggesting anything astrid and i'm surely not thinking you -or anyone else- as "ignorant on the sublject"

i just wanted to hear FSpotter's views on the decline of the importance of the catwalks in fashion business, thats all :flower: [/b][/quote]
That's not what I meant. :lol: I meant what do you suggest they do about the shows. B) I know you didn't mean it in that way.
 
fashion would be nothing without the shows.........they stimulate people into talk about whats hot and whats not.....which then filters down to other people and pressures them into wanting something.

no show, no nothing
 
Originally posted by Acid@Oct 19th, 2003 - 6:14 am
fashion would be nothing without the shows.........they stimulate people into talk about whats hot and whats not.....which then filters down to other people and pressures them into wanting something.

no show, no nothing
I kind agree with Sean. :flower: :wink:

Plus where will you get pics to show your clothing on mags, etc. .. whereelse but from the runways. :wink:
 
glad there is no miss-understanding here astrid :flower:

my personal opinion, is not important, i'm more interested in other's ideas from a strictly business (not entertainment) perspective, still, since you asked...
i find the shows totally outdated, extremely costing, useless regarding their old raison d'etre e.g. sales/buyers.
Since i've covered them for seasons i also find them extremely boring & tiring to attend (in flesh)

still enjoing a painless, stress & boredom free look on line. i'm mainly looking for new styling ideas, colors and ideas which could still be available to us if designers decided to show short films or creative online presentations (like Bruno Pieters, Berhard Willhelm and more just did for ss04 )
 
Originally posted by Lena@Oct 19th, 2003 - 6:52 am
glad there is no miss-understanding here astrid :flower:

my personal opinion, is not important, i'm more interested in other's ideas from a strictly business (not entertainment) perspective, still, since you asked...
i find the shows totally outdated, extremely costing, useless regarding their old raison d'etre e.g. sales/buyers.
Since i've covered them for seasons i also find them extremely boring & tiring to attend (in flesh)

still enjoing a painless, stress & boredom free look on line. i'm mainly looking for new styling ideas, colors and ideas which could still be available to us if designers decided to show short films or creative online presentations (like Bruno Pieters, Berhard Willhelm and more just did for ss04 )
Wait. So buyers have already seen their works and bought things?? I always thought that it was afterwards that buyers go into the showroom to make purchases? Unless,that's just big designer dribble? :lol:

Anyway,I hate traditional 5-mile catwalks. Its so boring. I much prefer installation presentations like those Jurgi Persoons or Cosmic Wonder designer made famous. I think spectators get a better look at the collections as if it were being shown in the showroom. Films are also brilliant!
 
Originally posted by Scott@Oct 19th, 2003 - 6:05 pm
Wait. So buyers have already seen their works and bought things??


I always thought that it was afterwards that buyers go into the showroom to make purchases? Unless,that's just big designer dribble?
exactly scott*
and this is not just for the huge brands.
if buyers spend 70-80% of the budget pre-shows,
it makes sense that all order money is basicaly
been already invested :shock: months before
the fashion weeks shows :P

this is a relatively new situation in fashion marketing
that i think that simply adds to collections feeling
even more 'stale' and outdated by the time they actually hit the stores.

eg: spring collections are 'constructed' by end of June,
ordered by the end of July,
in the shops not until February.
no wonder they are sooo outdated,
when designer almost one year before...

weird & interesting eh? :huh:
 
I totally agree with Sean!... shows brings the feeling and ambiance of the season, and leads the buyers into the essence of the collection... we would think that Galliano is even crazy if we dont hear the music or see the show that he displays.. :lol:

catwalks are a must!
 
I feel liek the catwalk is a part of fashion tht can never be replaced becuas as it said in the article it puts the messege across, and for me fashion , like most art, is a bout a messege and a statement so still we will have teh messege in the clothing wetehr or not we have the show, but the show makes it stronger and clear. I however feel that runways have become to much of an event for entertainment and advertisement purposes, I do however think shows from the likes of boudicca and cosmic wonder that are more low key and focus more on teh messege of the cloths are what should be happening. Its all about hype anyways.
 
I like the cat walk/fashion shows, they are for entertainment, but like any form of art it allows the designer the opportunity to truly state their vision. It may be a tad dated for trying to sale clothes, but it still gets people buzzing and they are fun to watch. I think its all a show and should be treated as such. But buyers do come so I can't say its not to sale clothes, maybe not for every designer. But these shows are important for the unknown/new designer as well, especially places like Gen Art etc.
 
fashion is the power to control people by impression

fashion shows along with the clothes provide the power to impress and control
 
I would disagree that fashion is about controll, but I agree its deffinently about impression and catwalk controlls thats :flower:
 
I have been to only 2 runway shows...both of them being what I assume is the standard "5 mile runway" ( is that how you call it?).
I was honestly bored out of my mind by the end....I would have much rather seen the designer incorporate the environment by linking the fashion and surroundings conceptually. Giving more of a story.
 
Welll maybe those of you in the know can give a rough idea of the costs associated with a basic runway show.

It seems to me that the shows generate an energy, a buzz, an enthusiasm that plays to human nature. We watch the shows, we get caught up in "oooh ahh and did you see that"...in essence it gets fashion minded people together and talking.

Media is generally willing to use many forms of visual image...if catwalks were eliminated and replaced with a video of models in ateliers for example...it might show us more of the actual design...it might show us more of the designers skill, inspiration, etc. One drawback -- it there's not the same drama. But video producers can still build in appropriate drama...and after all the Style network would still have something to run between all of its millions of reruns of "Fashion Emergency" and "Style Star". :smile: :winkiss:
 
Originally posted by Sugo@Oct 22nd, 2003 - 3:58 pm
I have been to only 2 runway shows...both of them being what I assume is the standard "5 mile runway" ( is that how you call it?).
I was honestly bored out of my mind by the end....I would have much rather seen the designer incorporate the environment by linking the fashion and surroundings conceptually. Giving more of a story.
i doubt it was a 5 mile runway :lol: the poor models feet would have falen off

as for them becoming boring towards the end.......i kinda agree......even at the jean paul gaultier couture show i went to :wacko:

there needs to be some kinda musical and visual spectacle. the clothes are all great to look at........but there needs to be something else to keep your attention on the show
 
Probably another reason why people think catwalks are seriously outdated, is because of the clothes. Majority of the clothes going down the runway these days are recycled, un-inspired and un-original :doh: , though there are some exceptions. That's why people are looking for other ways to look at clothes. They think "What's the use of going to this venue (and the next, after next..) to see this show if they clothes are not going to be intresting?"

But to be honest catwalks should'nt be taken so seriously. It's a part of fashion, it's needed.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

New Posts

Forum Statistics

Threads
210,543
Messages
15,118,452
Members
84,198
Latest member
Realktz
Back
Top
monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"