Celine F/W 2019.20 Paris

[tricotineacetat]

The funny thing about this collection is, while it seems a real departure of aesthetics on the runway, it will most likely turn out a pretty evenly merchandized situation once this collection hits the stores - There will be a little more camel and brown and a little bit less black and grey, some longer skirts and dresses, but in a way more of the same methodical design-as-editing that Slimane has been doing since Saint Laurent.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I know it's a free world and everyone have an opinion but reading all these comments supporting this crap is beyond.
It's like everyone forgot the last Phoebe collection: really easy, desirable and modern clothes. That's the fashion I want to see today. Not this mountain of boring and mundane garbage.

Well...from my perspective - I think it’s very important that Hedi does not even dare continue on the Philo “look.” Phoebe was such a force...she so completely changed the absolute entirety of contemporary fashion...so much so that anyone who would follow who might try to carry on that aesthetic would inevitably create nothing more than a hollow shell of Pheobe’s legacy. It had to be a clean break.

The market is flooded with her poor imitators, anyway.

So - in a way...I can appreciate this second collection from Hedi here (lets just ignore his debut entirely). There’s no pretense here. No attempt to be arty or intellectual...no attempt even to push a boundary. From a strategic point of view, I think this is actually very smart for this house in the wake of Philo. Any other direction would feel like a false or forced revolution for the sake of it.

Just nice, easy clothes seem right. I don’t see the problem.

 

[Mutterlein]

I know it's a free world and everyone have an opinion but reading all these comments supporting this crap is beyond.
It's like everyone forgot the last Phoebe collection: really easy, desirable and modern clothes. That's the fashion I want to see today. Not this mountain of boring and mundane garbage.

And you can still see it, you'll just have to look somewhere else.

I won't disagree that it's boring. But I would challenge you to consider that in an age of instatgramable clothing, boring is not so bad. Well made, classic and discreet clothing? That speaks more to luxury than to Fashion (with a capital F). Frankly, I'm happy to see him move on from Rock Chic as well as offer something that doesn't look like the '90s threw up on it.

And no sense in pining for the Philo days or compare them to what's happening now. Phoebe didn't invent Celine. She has no ownership over it. She left it behind and the business must go on.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I am starting to think that just about any designer following up on Phoebe Philo's successful tenure would have had a hard time to please - Think about what would have happened, for instance, if Christophe Lemaire had taken over; his style isn't too far off from the previous Céline and while it's clear that he is not an imitator, people would have accused him for anything resembling his own collection or his previous tenure at Hermès, similar to how Antony Vaccarello's work at Saint Laurent is widely seen as a continuation of Hedi Slimane's template for the house.

I keep my doubts if the late 70ies Bourgeois style proposed by Slimane in this collection can be seen as an actual change of direction or if it's just a seasonal theme used to work around his permanent product lines. There are an awful lot of entry-priced products aimed at young customers such as canvas sneakers, print t-shirts and small accessories that look anything but Bourgeois and I'm expecting the stores to be stock unhealthy amounts of that.

 

[Lola701]

There are an awful lot of entry-priced products aimed at young customers such as canvas sneakers, print t-shirts and small accessories that look anything but Bourgeois and I'm expecting the stores to be stock unhealthy amounts of that.

It just kills me!
I mean Phoebe did Logo t-shirts and sneakers but the taste level was different.
Hedi’s appeal is the styling because at the end of the day, his clothes are very simplistic.
Phoebe was doing great pieces that you could integrate in the wardrobe.

I also don’t believe that this last collection is an indication of him doing Bourgeois dressing. I remember that he is limited and in order to work the bourgeois aesthetic, it’s important to use your imagination.

And Slimane’s imagination is maybe DVF level.

 

[Melancholybaby]

There are an awful lot of entry-priced products aimed at young customers such as canvas sneakers, print t-shirts and small accessories that look anything but Bourgeois and I'm expecting the stores to be stock unhealthy amounts of that.

It's quite early to say, but I was in the London flagship yesterday and none of the basic logo hoodies, t-shirts and plain sneakers were on display. It was mostly runway pieces, mixed with Hedi's staples (jeans, shirts, blousons, blazers). The store was quite busy too, with people of all ages.

I'm curious to see which direction he's going to follow, skinny rocker or Parisian bourgeois. Could be a mix of both in the stores.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I don't mind at all if Hedi's idea of simplicity means straight-forward, beautiful and timeless tailoring and outerwear. Other houses such as Max Mara, Burberry, Jil Sander and indeed also any of the brands Hedi Slimane designed for build success stories on these categories (I would go as far as to say that those he designed, were often the last word in terms of cut and finishing) and I wouldn't see how that could not in parts also appeal to the woman that wore Phoebe Philo's Céline. Oddly enough, it might be a strength that just about anyone can enjoy a bit of Slimane without having to be fully part of his diehard fanbase.

 

[perfect blue]

Decided to revisit this thread before Paris Fashion Week comes up. Hope it's still ok to post in it...

I did like this collection when it came out actually, even if it does come off as boring. I had seen some people wearing Celine clothes during my visit to France and Belgium this summer. They looked pretty great if I dare say so.

 

[Mutterlein]

Decided to revisit this thread before Paris Fashion Week comes up. Hope it's still ok to post in it...

I did like this collection when it came out actually, even if it does come off as boring. I had seen some people wearing Celine clothes during my visit to France and Belgium this summer. They looked pretty great if I dare say so.

There’s some things in stores now that I wouldn’t mind owning.

 

[perfect blue]

There’s some things in stores now that I wouldn’t mind owning.

They are very flattering pieces actually. Yeah of course since it is expensive but still.

 

[reese06]

The shearling boots were just too Michael Kors for my taste when I saw them in the boutiques.

Nicely made clothing although I honestly thought I had walked past zadig & voltaire when I walked past the boutique the first time