Chanel F/W 2018.19 Paris

^^
I kinda enlarged my point from questioning the quality of the designs to the recurrent criticism that I see each time about Chanel because I felt that it was linked.

Everything you said as far the set here, I totally agree with it but the thing is that I feel like a total hypocrite if I call out those actions or even products because I like those sets, I like those silly things that fashion produce and at the end of the day, a lot of people are consumers and feed into these kind of excess.

For me environment and the fashion industry are two things that doesn’t match, no matter how we try, pretend to try or anything.

What I find was very weird about the critic from the organization is that they are saying that Chanel is pretend to be green when it’s them who are making this assumption.
 
That doesn't justify what Chanel did but everything will be recycled and 100 trees will be implanted again.

It's a false debate as long as they went to a source where they were allowed to cut trees.

Just because you are allowed to do something does not make it right, the fur trade, hunting and bullfighting are allowed and people are within their right to protest against it. And debate is what makes things change. Cutting fully grown trees of this type to be used for a couple of hours is the type of thing that fashion stereotypes are made. And let's not even talk about the waste of energy of all the logistics involved. I'm sure Chanel has enough money to hire a team of artists to create some beautiful fake trees.
 


All the looks from the Fall-Winter 2018/19 show, presented by Karl Lagerfeld at the Grand Palais in Paris on March 6th, 2018. Soundtracks: The Liminanas « Dimanche (Feat Bertrand Belin) » Courtesy of Because Music/Because Editions / Wagram Publishing The Liminanas « Ouverture » Courtesy of Because Music/ Because Editions / Downtown Music Publishing A.R Kane « Love from Outer Space » Courtesy of Luaka Bop The Liminanas « Istanbul Is Sleepy (Feat Anton Newcombe)” Courtesy of Because Music/ Because Editions / Downtown Music Publishing Erol Alkan : A Hold On Love Courtesy of Phantasy Sounds / Bucks Music Group
 
I'm always surprised by people criticizing Chanel for being the same when in fact it has never pretended to be anything different. The changes doesn't have to be drastic...It could be a new shoulder, a new technique, a detail..etc. That's what i believe TFS was meant to be about. To elevate the conversation towards that.

The reason why i mention this is because at the same time, we (myself included) are willing to worship any designer in the "anti-fashion" movement who is doing that exact thing. Nobody complains for Yojhi not having drastic changes each seasons. It's always black and architectural. Helmut Lang was mostly about more of the same...Yes, if we compare wht he did in 1986 when he presented for the first time in Paris and a 1992 collection, the change is drastic but for a longtime, it was very subtle.

The same for Margiela at Hermes. Nobody can say that each season, he reivented himself, even if he did IMO.

Two different things. Completely different issues.

I hate their sets. Always have. Just go back to the mirror stairs, I don't care, but these "mega" sets are a joke and quite offensive. Always have. Have money to throw away? Donate it. Invest in public transportation for the attendees and have a non-destructive show in a nice new area. It is about the clothes. I hate these gimmicks around the collections: over the top styling, over the top sets, it all screams "I don't trust my own work" written all over it. The only one that made that successfully was McQueen and it had a whole deal to do with the theatrics/storytelling (and he had a few less fortunate ones too).

As for the second issue, the one quoted here, I actually miss the time when a designer meant a DNA, a "look". I'm 100% against designers changing the DNA of a "house". I like Yohji because I want that look. I know exactly what I'll get from him, from quality to design. I loved Helmut too. I love Ann and I love how the new creative team continues to work on her DNA. That is also why I hate this new Gucci. Same for Balenciaga, YSL and many others killed by new directions/changes.

Karl changed Chanel. He changed it a lot. Sure, you still have a few staples but he experimented more than I wished for that house. That is why I think this collection is one of the best of his, it's a more subtle collection, closer to the good ol' Chanel.
 

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