Chanel Haute Couture F/W 2019.20 Paris

Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by vogue28, Jul 2, 2019.

  1. vogue28

    vogue28 Mod Squad Team Leader

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  2. vogue28

    vogue28 Mod Squad Team Leader

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  3. vogue28

    vogue28 Mod Squad Team Leader

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  4. perhydrol

    perhydrol Active Member

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    She needs to take her time to learn how to edit her ideas because this collection was all over the place. That's weird because she was the right hand of Karl for the last 30 years so she knows that he used to stick to one theme and work around it. Here we have literally everything for everyone and as a result the collection doesn't make any impact. It's beautiful (but there are some looks that are just blah- that's the problem with lack of editing, too) but it should have been more directional. If she doesn't get that, she'll be another Maria Disgrazia and that would be just so sad.
     
  5. tricotineacetat

    tricotineacetat Well-Known Member

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    Everything about this collection feels like an imitation of Karl Lagerfeld's work at Chanel without the sassy, exaggerated touches that often helped to make matronly tailoring seem youthful and soulful. The other problem I am seeing here is that, besides the argument that Virginie Viard was lauded as the most insightful choice with the authority to delegate all the speciality ateliers, I get the feeling there is a lot less of the stupendous detail work (embroidery, feathers, etc.) going on that made Chanel couture the stuff of dreams.

    All in all, I find this collection to be shockingly pale and anonymous, in the way that Bouchra Jarrar's stint at Lanvin felt or how any interim designer choice would be understood (see Lucie Mayer and Serge Ruffieux at Dior).
     
  6. blackcherrified

    blackcherrified Active Member

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    It’s... well made... but at the same time... it’s... bland.

    I guess maybe we are too used to Karl Lagerfeld’s extravaganzas and everything Virginie Viard is doing now feels very basic.

    It’s definitely nice to see what does a stripped-down Chanel looks like (e.g. the construction, the architecture, the artisanal aspects...), but this... hmmm, I could bring a photo of the fifth or sixth look to any tailor and they can recreate that for me in less than a week or so.

    And this is a very ‘functional’ collection isn’t it? It’s very very very ‘work wear’. Don’t really feel like a haute couture collection to me...
     
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  7. apple

    apple Well-Known Member

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    The biggest risk of Virginie being the head designer at Chanel was that she would make the house a low impact version of Karl's Chanel and this collection proves that this is the direction. It's not bad but it lacks that magic touch which made Chanel the biggest house in the world. Even in Karl's worst collections, you could still see the amazing job by the atelier and a sort of scheme by his incredible mind. Here, we don't have creativity in design but what is worse to me is that she's not able to show the ability of the Atelier, which is a waste.. I'll give her some more time but my prediction is that she goes on autopilot. If it works in terms of sales and press coverage, she will stay.. Otherwise I can see a big change.

    About the show, I'm very happy to see Kiki opening instead of their usual girls but then Vittoria closed so here we go again. Also I'm constantly annoyed by their cast.. I feel like they lack if diversity so much.
     
  8. dodencebt

    dodencebt Well-Known Member

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    Is it pretty? Yes. Is it well made? Yes. Does it remind me of Karl's collections? Yes. Will it sell? Very likely. Do I still want a complete change of direction at Chanel? 100%.
     
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  9. YeohRocks

    YeohRocks Active Member

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    I don't think these photos do the clothes justice. Some looked divine in motion.
     
  10. blackcherrified

    blackcherrified Active Member

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    After looking through the collection again... some looks feel like a reaction to Alessandro Michele‘s Gucci (e.g. ‘black and white tuxedo’ gown in look 54, gown with white shoulder and chest embroidery in look 58)...

    ... while others like the long coat in look 4, jackets in look 5 and 6, the green jumpsuit in look 10 and the green halter top in look 32 we can expect to see them in Zara in a few weeks’ time :lol::lol:

    Actually I would call this collection ‘The Beauty is Yawning Again’
     
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  11. HodanChloe

    HodanChloe Active Member

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    There’s something missing. That black satin gown with the white belt looks so cheap! I couldn’t believe it when I saw it.
     
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  12. Marc10

    Marc10 Moderator

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    Yeah now I can see clearly this isn't gonna work out. As I feared, she doesn't seem to have a lot going on in the creativity side. It's pretty, it's inoffensive, it's well made, but it's also lacking of singularity and vision.

    I said from the beginning that Chanel needs to hire a new designer to usher a new era with a new creative direction. Karl is gone, so the brand has to move on without him. Having her here to deliver collections that kinda sorta looks like his work on surface to keep the status quo is not a good move at all.
     
  13. chanelh

    chanelh Active Member

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    This is so uninspiring! Chanel couture should represent the highest level of Fashion fantasy.
    I mean you have the best Atelier teams in the whole world! give those ppl some challenges to live with!
    if you can't, at least fill the clothes with embellishments, it's couture for god sake. Who gonna pay more than 40000euro for your plain, uncreative, non-embroidery dress???

    i never trust her as a designer, never, i know she won't live up to the house.
    Still i mean spending time with Karl for 30 years, at least you expect she would learn some tricks from him, lift by his boldness and imagination, but again, I think i could come up better concept than her.

    This woman is hopeless! no matter how much time u give to her, the result would stay the same.

    And last but not least, she is bad at color as usual, a solid proof that she is not talented enough for the house.
     
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  14. Lola701

    Lola701 Well-Known Member

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    I tried so hard to not look at the collection before the show...
    So, it was a beautiful collection. I was emotional because I couldn’t stop thinking about Karl and the fabulous collection he did one year ago...

    As I said, it’s a beautiful collection. Very chic, quite bourgeois in a very 60’s/70’s way but also very pared back. I got some touches of Delphine Seyrig in « Last Year at Marienbad » and Romy Schneider in « Boccaccio 70 ».
    My favorite looks are the black coat on Vittoria, the silver dress with the boléro on Anok and the fabulous look 56 (coat with the belted dress). It all looked very beautiful on set.

    That being said, I wish the collection didn’t looked like a fresher retrospective of Karl’s work for Chanel HC. The opening coats are very 1996 HC, then the pantsuits are very 1994-1995. Then, we move on the late 80’s part and then the rest is a mash-up of of his last few collections mix with some 90’s stuff. The bride, as fresh as it is, looks like a look from the Paris in Rome collection.
    While the whole thing was pleasant and well executed (I think the images don’t do justice to it), it wasn’t as decisive as Karl’s work.

    Karl drew his clothes and he added some clever, fun or gimmicky details which were very important like a double neckline, an embroidered zipper that will showcase a pleated sleeve from a blouse, resin flowers on a very classic Couture shape. Karl had a very graphic eye and even if sometimes it was weird, it was sharp.

    This is more « Couture on the eye of the wearer ». It’s very pragmatic and maybe more practical tha what Karl did in his last few years. But Karl also did very practical collections...One of my favorite ever Chanel HC is FW2001, The Pants collection. It was practical, fresh and focused with a lot of inventive ideas.

    The main problem with me is that It looks like a mood board kind of collection. Karl didn’t worked with a mood board and suddenly, it shows. When he designed, the only point of reference was his own...They might have been classical costume designs, historical references or anything else but because he didn’t worked with what he did directly, even when he referenced himself, it didn’t looked like a diluted version of it.

    Virginie has a cool style and she wears HC so, I expect from her to maybe go deep into her own references. I don’t want to see a fresher take on Chanel but HER VISION of Chanel.

    That being said, this will work well on the Redcarpet. I wonder what Anna will choose from this and if she is going to continue wearing Chanel HC.
     
  15. GivenchyHomme

    GivenchyHomme Well-Known Member

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    RIP Chanel.

    I will admit that I loved this look. It's completely out of place and very Raf Simons.

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    vogue
     
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  16. jeanclaude

    jeanclaude Well-Known Member

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    Look, here´s Maria-Grazia long-lost sister from other parents!!
     
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  17. GivenchyHomme

    GivenchyHomme Well-Known Member

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    It's absolutely hideous and uninspired. I see very similar styles from Resort. It has the same casual approach which is not appropriate for Haute Couture. I don't see luxury. It's like a department store knockoff of Chanel. You would have to be a complete idiot to invest in such mediocrity. You could wrap a carpet around your body and it would still be more interesting than these frumpy rags. She's not new to the game so there is no excuse. She's proven herself to be talented interpreter of the fashion sketch. However, talent as a designer is still in question.
     
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  18. KissMiss

    KissMiss Well-Known Member

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    Apart from a few looks, it reeks of boredom...
     
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  19. bennyboy

    bennyboy Member

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    Thank God ,it looks still CHANEL
     
  20. Benn98

    Benn98 Well-Known Member

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    Yikes, she really had such a strong hand in Karl's collections. It clearly hadn't been all him for some time now. One can just tell by the way she dealt with elements and the proportions. It would just be very random motifs to copy if she copied, so that tells me that this is really all her.

    I still reckon she deserves a few more seasons to truly make her statement, at least 3, but it looks set to be a bumpy ride. For starters, this should really be more streamlined considering it's all supposed to be her vision. And it should make a stronger case for a departure from what Karl stood for. Everybody knows he's gone, I don't think anyone is expecting Karl V2. Or is that the reason why the Wertheimers hired her? To continue servicing the existing Chanel clientele?
    This is way too ersatz and referential. I liked the softer power shoulders in the opening segment, and it looks like she could turn out strong and defined eveningwear because the more flowing and experimental ones actually look interesting (not the Dior-looking ones!), but the rest don't appeal to me at all because Karl's Chanel never really appealed to me. His Fendi, yes, but never his Chanel!
     

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