When I look at Karl's "side" projects.. like his horrid photography, his guest editing for Vogue, the articles he's written, I feel like my brain starts generating a combination of anxiety and fear.. for reaching that awkward stage in life where you have to make room for
new life, but since you've hung your existence around your occupation, you can't! because that would mean giving up on your own life. And seeing him in motion only makes it worse
. So most of the time, I guess I wonder what everyone else around here does and I'm sure he asks to himself too, why are you still here?..
Once a year or once every two years, I think he answers that so loud and clear that you just want to punish yourself for having even wished for him to go away and certainly understand the rest of his work is mere survival, the mechanism that supports the path to productions like this, which are naturally slower now but that still convey what he does best and what he's done in years but so refined, safe, reassuring, joyful.. detailed, with his hand on the pulse closer than any other designer in a major house.. he understands the mood of society better than anyone in similar positions right now, probably due to experience... and even if it's the Ritz and decadence and opulence and all of that, which has fractured things deeply and celebrated inequality in many ways, he sends out a message of optimism and hedonism, nostalgic instead of superficial. He says it's intentionally an atemporal collection but I think it refers to all these decades where societies were pretty battered (or about to be!) and for the same reasons, creativity was nurtured and abundant.. and you didn't really have to apologise for vanity!.. I think that's been missing in fashion and will probably remain like this for a few more years, but his presentation and clothes just put a big smile on my face.. one of his best in years imo, even the seemingly fugliest piece is desirable in that context.
This dress is kind of whatever in pictures (especially the one on vogue.com- which appears to be some kind of lazy back shot...) but in motion is so gorgeous and dreamlike...
[chanel.com]