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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by vogue28, Dec 5, 2018.
Another themed costume show again. Egypt this time for pre-fall...is Karl gonna keep making collections of every and each culture/country in the world??
Pharrell Williams again (Lagerfeld must have a crush on him, because I still cannot understand the relation between Chanel style and Pharrell´s).
For next collection let me guess...Maya World? Aztecs? Ancient Rome? Chanel is starting to feel like Disney...
Forget Pharrell, irrelevant but at least an adult.. Why do fashion people act like it's not creepy to constantly bring that kid to the shows as some sort of Tadzio in Karl's aesthetic?
metiers d'art is my favorite collection but Karl hasn't wowed me in quite some time.
It's pretty and it's obviously well made but this is Chanel with Egyptian accents and elements on the same silhouettes. Too cliche and costumey in some parts.The boots are fabulous and it seems we are about to rehash the early 2000s garish fashion trends.
I'm finding Chanel to be stale which is odd because Fendi is AMAZING.
Those stiff tweed gowns are atrocious. I need more time to digest. Ha
The fabulosity of the whole thing. Karl owns the prefall season!
This is really one of my favorite Metiers d’Arts collection ever.
At first I was confused on how he would interpret the idea of NYC as he has done this twice already. There was the fabulous 30’s inspired collection in 2006 and the 2007 resort.
The Met was an odd choice so I expected to see a take on the idea of dressing well for a Gala event...A bit like what he did for the Casino collection. It was about dressing up to go to the casino.
This type of historic theme works better for Couture normally. Galliano did that fabulously. Rousteing failed last season.
The collection is very Karl for Chanel for this era. It has a familiar handwriting...
It’s Between Paris-Byzance & Paris-Moscou but it’s very different in terms of allure.
It’s so great because it’s very desirable for the huge part of the collection. The long & lean silhouettes. I just want to buy most of it! Look 3, the two gold suits, the champagne dress (look 12), the badass look on Soo Joo, the look on Yasmin and the look after (pure love), the dress on Amanda, look 56 to 61, look 71 to 75 and the last part (except for the sheer numbers).
There are so many hits that I don’t mind the misses (the graffitis and all) And it’s great to see High Fashion with a capital F, without any commercial trick. The shoes are beyond! The references and small details makes it better.
In this weird era of fashion, it’s really enjoyable to have a designer who has reached that insane level of success and who doesn’t seem blasé about it. Ok he has gave his life to fashion and he is working in the best conditions but he could be blasé or lazy like MGC and others.
Even if it’s cheesy, high fashion is supposed to make is dream. Nobody needs a 5000€ dress so make it great when you can! I love this!
I'm a sucker for anything Ancient Egyptian themed, so I am in love with (most) of this collection. I get it'll be a love/hate relationship for people as a result of its upfront theme but I think the looks are gorgeous. All of those gold pieces look exquisite.
i am a sucker for golden theme, so i wish i can win a lottery and be able to buy all the golden items in the show......
as for the denim and graffiti items, feel like they just be added to make the show relevant to NYC
seriously, I can't believe that there are people taking this so serious.
who even cares about Chanel nowadays? The only cool thing they have now is Chloe Sevigny.
I’m going to go ahead and say it, this has nothing on Dior Couture SS04. That was Egyptian magic. This looks like the gift shop version. Ancient Egypt is a tricky inspiration. It’s very difficult to modernize. Karl’s interpretation leaves a lot to be desired.
It's a nice hint to ancient Egypt. Ancient Egyptian motifs designed into typical Chanel pieces. Love some of the gold pieces but can do without those gold shoes. Love the jewellery. Very Chanel. Mature and simple. That's why it sells to people who don't necessarily want to be an "It" person showing off on Instagram. Chanel doesn't need to be an "It" brand like Louis Vuitton, Celine under HS, D&G these days which pander to the millenial social media demographic to remain relevant. Chanel will always have its mature clientele who know they're rich and don't need to show it off.
But you're right in regard to Dior SS04. Galliano took a more literal approach to Ancient Egypt and produced some incredibly magical pieces but that's what he did best. In his late-90s/early-00s collections he really transported people into alternate realities with his shows. That's why couture these days is so lacklustre...because there's no magic anymore.
Overall it's one cosplay mess, but there are definitely some redeeming looks here. I hate the tweed skirt over the white underlay accent only due to the length of the tweed. A bit shorter and it may have been passable. The gold collars and trims look cheap, but I'm obsessed with the more solid looks. Nora Attal's, for instance, was perfectly styled from head to toe. The croc jacket on Lexi and look on Soo Joo Park are also winners for me, so are the boots (not the heels!!!) As usual I find his eveningwear way more interesting. Mainly due to the hem lengths, but this time also the V straps. And the white underlay works way better for the evening segment.
Most hideous must be the stretch dealing with jackets and pants starting with Luna and ending with Kaia.
I sometimes feel Chanel was the worst thing to happen to Karl creatively. It's too stringent. You can only interpret the house codes so much. With this collection there's some flashes that with more freedom, he could actually turn out something decent.
The weirdest thing is that we know that he will never do such a thing for Fendi.
The codes of Chanel are so restrictive at some point (given the aesthetic of the brand or of the designer) that they have to find the oddest connections ever.
Karl doesn’t want to quit because not doing anything could actually lead him to die for boredom but i’m sure the suits at Chanel are also afraid of the day he will leave (even if they are showing signs of preparing the next chapter).
These collections are like a very long swan song. It’s ridiculous but it works.
Of course it’s verging on costumes. How could it not be when you have to make a theme live in a such a defined vocabulary. Dior Couture 2004 was a costume fest. But we love it not because it was beyond great but because it was by John at the peak of his career.
Showing women with masks and obvious references today might feel out of touch.
People are just fed up with the idea of Karl at Chanel.
That's why I always find these themed collections so mind-boggling. It's always so bourgeois and textbook in execution that I seriously question the Chanel woman and her intellectual capacity. Egypt > Nefertiti/Gold, Greece > draping/leather sandals, Cuba > faded vintage prints, Scotland > tartan....there's no wit to these pairings.
And yet like you say, Fendi is on a different level entirely!
Just wait for the Chanel Sicily Collection. Spaghetti Purses anybody?
Even though thats UNBELIEVABLE that a so literal interpreted collection worked, overall, so well, Im still torn. My problem here is level of taste, its a roller cost. Some dresses are like 'useless' outside of fashion editorial and others are like high fashion galore.
Its not forgettable, thats for sure, and the fact that Karl still can deliver buzz and high fashion its notable. My favorite Métiers d'Art collection still the Hamburg one tho.
The look on Pharrell (without the necklace, OF COURSE) the allure of rarity of Chanel menswear is so magical and elevate the clothes in a way that is crazy.
just saw the show video...i don't if it's the metallic glittering thing working on me, but damn, everything just so eye-catching and seems extremely expensive
I don’t know if you paid attention to it but in the Paris in Rome collection, there were farfalle embroideries on some dresses.
He has done Japan, China, Korea, HK, Cuba, Roma, Hamburg, Saltzburg, NYC, LA, Miami, Dubai, London, Dallas. At this point, he has covered almost every current part of the globe...
It’s fair that he is going back to old civilizations. It’s a pity he is not doing that for Couture tho.
He has never done Punk!
I take it as a homage to ancient Egypt as much as one to the upcoming MET exhibition on Camp.
And Karl should be banned by decree from doing menswear, EVER. It's just outside of his scope.