Chanel Pre-Fall 2022 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[dontbeadrag]

Very contrasting collection. Personally, it has some of the best pieces by Virginie, but also some of the worst. Coats and dresses I really like, but separate tops and bottoms - what is that in holy mother of god? How do you make somebody who is so slim look like they have their hips 5 times thicker or very feminine shoulders look like those of a construction worker? Does Virginie know what tailoring is?

 

[chanelh]

This is bad.....so bad.....not only her worst Métiers d'art (which was her peak in past two years), but one of her worst collection ever....there is no theme, no direction, no heavy craftsmanship vibe which is ironic cause the show was literally held in 19M, the heart of Métiers d'Art.

After reviewing the pics on vogue, all i can remember is bunch of sweaters and cardigan with ugly logo layering on each other

She is really a booster for vintage market, pushing pieces from Karl's era with higher and higher price after each collection.

 

[charles01]

This is bad. I want to say her worst collection yet? It’s a shame because S/S 2022 was a strong one.

 

[THD96]

Some of the looks reminded me of the Salzburg collection but it's more basic and badly construction. It's sad because métier d'arts has always been my favorite collections under Karl.

Beside being mediocre version of Karl, she doesn't have any distinct POV. And the styling is just messy.

Some of the coats are good tho, but the dresses are so bad. And her use of logos are just straight up tacky.

 

[MagFan]

new version of this suit in blak on Vuitton girl looks like it been washed in washing machine

firstview.com

 

[Olaffo]

I really hope she will get fired soon, preferably in 2022. This is just lasagne-like embarrassment: so many layers of ugliness, laziness etc it makes me sick.

Gvasalia to Chanel !

 

[bc collector]

Very contrasting collection. Personally, it has some of the best pieces by Virginie, but also some of the worst. Coats and dresses I really like, but separate tops and bottoms - what is that in holy mother of god? How do you make somebody who is so slim look like they have their hips 5 times thicker or very feminine shoulders look like those of a construction worker? Does Virginie know what tailoring is?

Exactly. It's a point I have already stressed in the past and the reason why I do not join the discussions on Chanel anymore, there is just nothing left there to say. It really astounds me how little she has picked up from Lagerfeld's super-exacting eye. She seems on a deliberate mission to give a matronly flavour to everything the touches and I have reached the conclusion that probably that is just her questionable taste.

 

[Caffeine]

I will contribute with a minority opinion...as someone who buys a little bit of Chanel RTW, mostly for day wear - jackets, pants, coats, etc., I look at them as a consumer, not as a fashion critique.

With Chanel, it's always very difficult to see the pieces underneath and to see the fabric and craftsmanship with pictures or video.

In the previous Metiers collection, I found a few pieces that were not obvious from the pictures at all. In the past SS22 collection everyone raved about, I found nothing that was practical.

With Chanel, what sells is always what looks good when it's tried on. Not even on the hanger. There could be many great fashion ideas or concepts, but when the rubber meets the road (in the fitting room, not on the runway!), it tends to be very different. This is why the previous Metiers was selling so well even though it received its fair share of critique.

 

[Lola701]

It’s inoffensive and basic and the fit issues will be solved in stores.
It’s just another collection. The problem is that it lacks the special nature of Metiers D’Arts. Metiers d’Arts is supposed to be the line between RTW and Couture…More detailed than RTW but less adventurous in terms of silhouettes or fabric treatment/experimentation than Couture.

And more than that, this is supposed to be the highest form of sophistication available at Chanel in terms of RTW.

Seriously, this doesn’t necessarily makes me want to buy new Chanel. I’ll keep my Karl stuff, continue to buy some archives but that’s it.

 

[Frederic01]

CHANEL

 

[Frederic01]

It's quite a boring collection but there are some exquisite pieces here, like the glittering tweed jackets and coats, and some of those cashmere Barrie cardigans. The styling is such a let down though, far too 80's in parts. Is Emmanuelle Alt already there?

The real problem with this collection though is the fact that there is no strong vision; it's merely an assortment of clothes intended to sell, much like the Pre-Spring (Act 1) and Pre-Winter (Act 2) collections. There's no storytelling or narrative to inspire like we expect from the Metier's d'art. In parts of the show, I felt like I was watching a trunk show for the Chanel staff in the offices! They could have come up with something more creative for the mise-en-scène, no?

I digress. Viard is not leaving anytime soon that is for sure. Her collections sell so well, and her ready-to-wear is so popular. She does has a very commercial eye and obviously that works for the brand. She knows what the Chanel clientele want: classic tweed jackets and CC logos, and she provides those things aplenty.

 

[Norden]

I wish she made us dream a bit more. It’s so banal. The weight of the clothes and heavy handed ness are just amplified by the banality of the presentation. i sympathize with her, I know this is her Chanel, and she deserves it, it looks like it. But it’s just not enough.

 

[avonlea002]

perfect for a party at a private geriatric ward.

 

[jeanclaude]

Is this trend of creating uninteresting and undesirable collections a hidden ecologic strategy to stop consumerism?

 

[fashionapprentice]

It’s inoffensive and basic and the fit issues will be solved in stores.
It’s just another collection. The problem is that it lacks the special nature of Metiers D’Arts. Metiers d’Arts is supposed to be the line between RTW and Couture…More detailed than RTW but less adventurous in terms of silhouettes or fabric treatment/experimentation than Couture.

And more than that, this is supposed to be the highest form of sophistication available at Chanel in terms of RTW.

Seriously, this doesn’t necessarily makes me want to buy new Chanel. I’ll keep my Karl stuff, continue to buy some archives but that’s it.

What would you say is the primary difference between ready to wear and couture... I know that you note that its more detailed and less adventurous (which is super helpful) but as someone who is trying to educate themselves on high end fashion I would love the opportunity to hear more about what differenterates the two.

 

[kasper!]

Most looks seems baggy in a very bad way. There is nothing refined about it.

 

[Frederic01]

What would you say is the primary difference between ready to wear and couture... I know that you note that its more detailed and less adventurous (which is super helpful) but as someone who is trying to educate themselves on high end fashion I would love the opportunity to hear more about what differenterates the two.

One of the principle differences between Chanel RTW and Haute Couture is the tweed they use. In RTW, there are three types of tweed, Uni, Fantasy, and Lesage. Haute Couture uses the same combination, but with a focus on producing exclusive tweeds for that collection. You will see a lot of Lesage tweeds in Haute Couture.

Uni Tweed is the very plain (typically single yarn) tweed:

Vogue Runway

Fantasy Tweed is more complex, usually using more yarns, which gives a depth to the tweed:

Vogue Runway

Lesage Tweed is a hand-made tweed made on a loom which incorporates several types of yarns, and which can include ribbon (as below), which is incorporated on the loom. Lesage tweeds are very expensive to make, because only a small amount of tweed fabric can be made per hour. An example from the collection:

Vogue Runway

Other differences include the fabrics (Haute Couture fabrics are more expensive by the meter and often produced exclusively for Chanel), no CC logos on buttons or elsewhere (the buttons are usually hand-crafted and often look like jewels), no costume jewellery, and of course more craftsmanship like embroidery, featherwork, etc. A lot of the work happens behind the scenes for example too, like in fabric development which sometimes takes years of experimentation to achieve the desired result.