Chanel Resort 2020 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[perhydrol]

I'm sorry but this was so bland and anticlimatic. Even the set was so paired back that it didn't really felt like it had been meant for Chanel. It wasn't ugly or something, it's just the lack of personality that comes from this collection. It could have been designed by anyone for any brand tbh and I get that it's only a cruise show but to me it was rather a disappointing one.

 

[Benn98]

As with any Chanel collection, I normally rush towards the end because the first 'daywear' segment is always so painful to watch. This time it's the other way around. I find her daywear very strong and directional - the colours and proportions (especially from Anna onwards.) But the evening looks are generic, jumbled, and seemingly assembled in haste. What's the story with the white collars, the bows which were adapted as if MGC was in charge, and the

 

[Lola701]

I’ve been to a few debut shows but this felt actually weird...
Like, there was an anticipation but the fact that it happened for Resort actually made it more casual and less heavy than a debut for PFW...

I’ll be very indulgent with Virginie as I know it will take time for her to find her voice.

First of all, she has a good cut and in terms of skills and execution, it’s perfect as always. She was in charge of the pre-collections (the Acte1 as they call it) and it showed...

I think the problem with the collection is that it didn’t really had the energy and the wow factor of a proper grand Chanel spectacle and yet, they had the elaborate set with a fabulous breakfast, insane reproduction...

There’s something indecisive about it....
But as I said, I will give her time...

I like how she started the show with popelin, cotton and suddenly, the tweed came later. I particularly love the ecru tweed suit with the mini-skirt! I love the closing look, some of the eveningwear and that leather jumpsuit!!!
I also love look 5!

Overall, it’s a nice debut that feels quite different but also familiar. The bags and shoes were very beautiful, the beauty is fabulous!
Too bad the Prada show was yesterday as the casting was a bit meh but it was good nevertheless.

I believe in Virginie. If Karl though she could do it, i would trust him.
And she dress well (unlike MGC)...

Btw, Karim Sadli shot the lookbook. So maybe he will also shoot the campaign!

 

[dodencebt]

I went through the collection twice because I wasn't sure what I was feeling the first time. I have come to the following conclusions:

- Virginie's Chanel seems more relaxed than Karl's to me. The daywear fabrics are more fluid and less precious, things are done in an unpretentious way.
- I noticed a lot of "basic" items that they will presumably be pushing, like the simplified Chanel jacket, cardigans, a lot of shirts, the bow and chain belt (the ideal entry-level product here, really).
- I felt like her Chanel is a mix of modern and dated. I think she is going to have to work on the dated aspect of it; the way some of the colors, zirconia printed pants and leather were incorporated seemed 90s in a bad way.
- The eveningwear is a real non event and while yes - this is a resort show, she hasn't utilized even a fraction of Lesage and Lemarie's capabilities. The plastic embroidery on the plaid pieces made me cringe so hard, it was very scarce and cheap looking. And the dresses after that with the large plastic flowers were no better.
- The last look was a very nice and subtle tribute to Karl, and one of the most effective outfits from the show in general.

Is it a departure from Karl's Chanel? Not at all. She is continuing his vision and while I am ready to give her a few seasons to find her footing, I still think the way Chanel is going to work in the future is by a complete rehaul from a visionary designer.

 

[Lola701]

- Virginie's Chanel seems more relaxed than Karl's to me. The daywear fabrics are more fluid and less precious, things are done in an unpretentious way.
- I noticed a lot of "basic" items that they will presumably be pushing, like the simplified Chanel jacket, cardigans, a lot of shirts, the bow and chain belt (the ideal entry-level product here, really).
Is it a departure from Karl's Chanel? Not at all. She is continuing his vision and while I am ready to give her a few seasons to find her footing, I still think the way Chanel is going to work in the future is by a complete rehaul from a visionary designer.

If you go on the Chanel website, you’ll see the Precollection aka, the commercial collection and see that it’s totally her strength.

I think that she needs a little bit of confidence and ultimately, I didn’t expect to see it on her first show.

And yes, Chanel will need a complete rehaul but I don’t think the Weirthemers are ready for it. Everybody is still there, even Karl’s bodyguard/assistant.

I have the feeling that they are afraid of having a Hedi Slimane type of person, who will come and make it all about himself...

But it’s decision either them or their heirs will have to make...

 

[chanelh]

well, we all know she can't live up to Karl's level, and here we are, seeing a standard ACT collection
1. that woman has no talent for color, i mean she can do well with simple colors or monochrome, but she simply lacks skill and talent for mastering multi colors which can be a big issue, since Chanel and Karl always made outstanding color tones for each collection no matter what the clothes good or bad.

2.the collection is not ugly, but indecisive and inconsistent. There is a very clear theme and set-up, but she didn't follow it. as if the set-up just for social media and experience, not for the collection. I see she is trying to deliver a diversified collection, but it feels like just randomly put a few collections together, the looks lack of connections with each other.

3. the dresses are uninspiring and accessories are weak.

4. the silhouette and cutting are safe and boring;

5. first and second looks are the only design seems deliver an point of view, yet it look too much alike with looks from Paris Hamburg collection

overall, this is exactly what i expected form her, safe, boring, bad color-tone, with some chic and clean moments, a typical Chanel ACT collection;

And i don't believe she will get better, i mean at her age, she just got what she got.
She is an outstanding executive, but to be a creator is totally another world.

 

[chanelh]

another thing really concerns me, Chanel is too much work for any designers alive......i mean 6 show collections within a year with each demanding a big load of creativity and productivity,especially two are couture collections which are even harder to master......

i don't think she can handle such workload well.... no one can actually.... so be prepared for much worse collection in future perhaps.
Hope I am wrong, but unlikely, indeed.

 

[jeanclaude]

Maria Grazia Chiuri 2.0...the Chanel version.

 

[Benn98]

I think it will be difficult for anyone to work at Chanel now. On the one hand, Karl made sure half of a almost every collection was filled with staples (for the regulars), while the other half had more of an experimental, modern take. And that was part of the reason why the brand consistently topped best selling lists. A shock overhaul probably isn't the solution, neither is just churning out staples. Virginie just wanted to be understated which imo is the right direction. If I were her I would just pay a little more attention to the elements she's using, and try a little harder to put out an authentic point of view. Because what I see here is Escada, Max Mara, Salvatore, Prada with a heady dose of MGC. Sadly for her, the elements one can see in this collection are almost the trademark and identity of those brands.

 

[TianCouture]

I'm trying so hard to see the MGC elements here and I just don't. I see a really clean, good, young, new Parisian Chanel collection that I legitimately have no issues with. It's very French and it's very her. Colors are great. Not stuffy or over complicated. I feel strongly that if she went all out, wild set, et al. she would be getting panned on here.

 

[balmain1914]

Bring Phoebe Philo to Chanel, thats what I wish for.

There are 3 Parisian women I hate most, coz their works can not fit in this new era of fashion: Virginie, Emmanuelle Alt and Carine Roitfeld. Chanel should drop all of them, from design to commercial ads and editorial stuff.

 

[HeatherAnne]

I don't hate this at all. I agree with Benn who said she has her work cut out for her on the evening looks, but then it's a Resort show so I have faith that she's still capable of more formal and serious looks. I don't want an overhaul of Chanel's identity I like that you could still recognize this as a Chanel collection, too many houses have lost their signature-look over the past few years, I don't want to see that happen again. Excited to see how she does at the house, but do hope she give us more Parisian sex appeal in the future.

 

[MyNameIs]

I think this is great. Very Chanel but more relaxed, more youthful and the shapes are more flattering. I honestly don't know why people are unhappy and what they were expecting.

 

[sn0wflaker]

This was a refreshing twist on the Chanel girl! I like that Virginie isn't setting out to completely overhaul the house, and it wasn't as "boyish" as the collections usually are. I also loved the lack of tweed.

 

[disco54]

Just get Phoebe Philo god dammnit.
Virginie aka Maria Churi 2.0 does not have the chops for this, the fitting of the pants are terrible. After seeing this I know why they called Karl, a master designer.

 

[Lola701]

Just get Phoebe Philo god dammnit.

It’s not going to happen anytime soon...

 

[sweetpop]

The first part of the collection felt cohesive and was visually quite nice. The middle ensembles looked a little messy, like too many ideas were attempted in one look. Not a fan of the big bows, and the application of bright colours here and there didn't really work for me. I liked the jacket and skirt looks though; quintessential Chanel but pared down from Karl's, which I thought was a good choice, especially for her first collection. It means a 'clean' slate for her and any ideas she may have to reimagine the jacket later on.
I don't think she'll ever be able to escape from the comparisons of Karl's work (nor any designer that takes the reins in the future), but overall I think Virginie walked the fine line between keeping with Chanel tradition (or Karl tradition?) and setting foundations for her own ideas for Chanel well.

A solid B+ for effort from me.