Look out, New York!
It's getting haute-er by the lake as local designers put Chicago on the fashion map
By Wendy Donahue
Tribune staff reporter
October 16, 2005
The walls of the Chinatown atelier dance with sueded silk dresses and matte jersey skirts.
So do the designer's eyes.
"I have a meeting tomorrow with two sales reps who were at the Fresh Faces in Fashion show and are dying to carry the collection," Orlando Espinoza says. "This season, for spring, we'll probably double our sales."
Flipping through his fall 2005 look book, he points to a photo of a brown raglansleeve dress with bust ruching.
"This sold out in a week at Marshall Field's," Espinoza says.
So, if you ask Espinoza about the local design scene--on the heels of Fashion Focus Chicago, the city's first festival to promote its fashion industry--his enthusiasm flows like the river outside his showroom's windows.
"This is the start of something big," Espinoza says.
Never has Chicago design talent turned so many heads, not just in the city, but beyond, say fashion observers.
Two festival highlights, in particular, did wonders: Marshall Field's Chicago Designer Shop, open through the end of the month, and the recent soldout Fresh Faces fashion show, presented by the emerging artists organization Gen Art. (It wasn't the first Fresh Faces show in Chicago, but American Express sponsorship elevated this one, attracting 1,000 people to the Millennium Park Rooftop Garden.)
Not even Espinoza or Chicago's mayor, who is the fashion industry's most potent cheerleader, would deny that there are challenges to maintaining the momentum.
But, in an interview at the Fresh Faces event, Mayor Richard M. Daley said Fashion Focus, conceived by the city and centered in the Loop this year, will be bigger next year.
"We'll really expand it into the neighborhoods," he said. "We're going to sit down with all the people who worked on it: Is this a good time or is August the best time? Evaluate it. I'm excited about it because it really shows how Chicago is changing. We have great artists here--I describe them as artists, the whole fashion industry. There's a significant industry here, and the more we highlight it and the more retail it gets and the more Chicagoans buy, the better it's going to get. Instead of going to L.A. and New York, we're seeing many [designers] stay here."
To do so still requires a bit of pioneering spirit, says veteran Chicago designer Maria Pinto.
"Every time I go to New York, if one person asks me, 10 people ask me, `Why don't you move to New York?'" says Pinto, 48, who relaunched her luxe eveningwear line last year after folding it in 2002, in the wake of the Sept. 11 downturn. "Manufacturing is very limited in Chicago. In New York and L.A., there's a built-in industry."
In her Elston Avenue showroom/factory, a few miles up the Chicago River from Espinoza's, a small army cuts patterns, sews and presses alongside bulging bags of feathers on a Tuesday morning. Pinto, who expanded into daywear this fall, is starting to outsource some of her production to New York, India and, soon, Italy.
A fan base
Her business is rebuilding faster than she expected, she says. Prominent fans include Michelle Obama, the wife of Sen. Barack Obama, featured wearing a Pinto gown in July Vogue.
In a few hours, Pinto would be leaving for Paris to show her collection there--she also shows in New York--to catch eyes of international clients. She was in Paris two weeks prior to buy fabric. She'll go to New York at the end of the month.
"[All of the travel] is the downside of being in Chicago. But it's offset--family and friends, the culture of Chicago, the energy of Chicago--it's a great place to live."
Pinto, Espinoza and others have been invited to meetings on a prospective Fashion Incubator, inspired by an operation in Toronto that Daley saw, to cultivate local talent. One vision of an incubator could combine a showroom, production center and retail space for several emerging designers, with affordable rent, and an employment office for sewers and patternmakers.
Dorothy Fuller, president of the city's Apparel Industry Board Inc., isn't convinced that's necessary. AIBI already offers mentoring and loan programs as well as fabric sales and referrals to sewing contractors--it's a fallacy that workers are in short supply, she said.
At the Stylemax trade show in August at the Merchandise Mart, AIBI added its first "incubator" section for emerging designers, including Allie Adams, 27, of Doris Ruth, to reach buyers and retailers. For the "Chicago is . . . Red Hot!" fashion show that was part of Stylemax, AIBI had interviewed 75 designers for participation, and 46 were accepted.
"Of that number, 25 were new, emerging designers," Fuller said. "So the industry is healthy. It's different from years ago when there were a lot of big companies. Now there are maybe five big companies left. We're proud of the new companies that are popping up."
Espinoza agrees the resources are here.
Introductions needed
"But I think the problem is the [sewing] contractors do not know the designers are there," he said, "and designers do not know the contractors are there. Having it, possibly, under one roof may help."
For now, Espinoza handles small orders in-house and contracts large orders to Chicago manufacturers. He lifts the curtains that border a fitting room separating his showroom from his production room.
There stands a mammoth computerized pattern plotter and stacks of plastic-sealed orders ready to ship. A single sewing machine hums as Espinoza's sole samplemaker stitches the panels of a chocolate flannel pencil skirt.
"We're completely computerized," says Espinoza, 39, who started out studying computer applications before answering the fashion calling in his native Los Angeles. He moved to Chicago about five years ago.
Espinoza even sketches and drafts patterns on his laptop.
Infiltrating every store on the planet is not in his business plan.
"What happens is, you'll take all these orders in, and before you know it you have a nightmare with production, and that's when stores notice--orders are late, defective. So as a small business that's growing, you have to be really careful."
The owners of Jake boutiques, which started on Southport Avenue and just opened on Rush Street, praise his quality control.
"Certainly we would not carry a line simply because it's made in Chicago; however, we love the cachet of nurturing local talent," said Lance Lawson, co-owner of the two Jakes, which carry Espinoza's women's wear and menswear from Kent Nielsen, 27, another Chicago designer featured in Fresh Faces.
"Both Kent and Orlando design clothes that are very appropriate for our customer," Lawson said. "Plus, for both of them, their manufacturing is really solid; the quality and production are really superb."
Lawson and his Jake co-owner, Jim Wetzel, attended Gen Art's Fresh Faces show in New York before Chicago's.
"We were expecting [New York] to be a world above," Lawson said. "I think the talent here is stronger."
Even Manhattan is becoming less myopic, said Gen Art fashion director Mary Gehlhar. Based in New York, she was a panelist for a Fashion Focus Chicago seminar related to her new book, "The Fashion Designer Survival Guide" (Dearborn Trade, $22.95 paper). More than 300 people turned out at the Chicago Cultural Center for it.
"New York has gotten a bit obvious," Gehlhar said. "Now people want to discover something nobody knows about. This would be an ideal place for Barneys or Bloomies to adopt a new talent and take it up the ladder into recognition."
As part of Fashion Focus, the Street Beat runway show showcased the designs of fashion students at the School of the Art Institute, Columbia College, the International Academy of Design and Technology, and the Illinois Institute of Art.
"I talked to the people at Saks in New York about it," Gehlhar said. "They said, `That's amazing, but the timing is wrong for us because we'll be in Milan' [for the Italian shows]. If they knew that the talent was here, they would come to the student shows."
Smaller can be better
On the manufacturing side, New York is facing competition not just from China but also from other U.S. cities, Gehlhar said. Smaller factories can work to a cottage designer's advantage; they might not require a minimum number of garments, and the designer's line won't be bumped because Marc Jacobs' order turned up.
"A lot is decentralizing out of New York," Gehlhar said. "The opportunities are huge."
From the beginning eight years ago, Tricia Tunstall made launching local talent a cornerstone of her p.45 boutique in Bucktown. She carries Lara Miller, Shane Gabier, Michelle Tan and newcomer Kelly Pasek.
"Now there are so many more boutiques in Chicago that are interested in emerging designers," she said. "And our Chicago designers aren't just selling to boutiques in Chicago. They're going to markets in New York and L.A. and they're very successful. It's nice to see."
Chicago fashion schools seem to be incorporating more business guidance lately, she said. (She has spoken to classes.) It's starting to make the benefits of staying in Chicago multiply.
"What's refreshing is our designers have their individual style," Tunstall said. "I think a lot of times that gets stifled if you're in New York, because so much of the emphasis is on the trends of the year."
Iconic fashionistas can appreciate that from their coastal perches.
During Sarah Jessica Parker's visit to Marshall Field's to promote her new fragrance last month, designer Miller, 25, left her a box containing a few of her designs.
Parker called her afterward, leaving a message that she thought they were beautiful and appreciated the gift.
"She actually has on her answering machine Sarah Jessica Parker," Tunstall said. "I told Lara, `Don't ever erase that message.'"
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