PARIS (AFP) - Refined 1920s elegance or the brash Teddy Boy look of the 1950s? British designer John Galliano offered both on Wednesday in an energetic winter ready-to-wear collection for Christian Dior full of attitude.
Galliano cut an elongated femme fatale silhouette for autumn-winter 2004-05 inspired by the art deco illustrations of Eduardo Benito, who worked during the 1920s and 1930s as cover artist for Vogue's international editions.
Peignoir coats and boxy jackets topped with enormous triangular fur collars envelopped the models in yards of velvet and wool, with their greased-back 1950s pompadours barely poking out from the elaborate garments.
The massive check and leopard-print coats embroidered with metallic sequins were worn over organza, silk and georgette gowns in vibrant pastel hues that fell to the floor in a tumble of ruffles and flounces.
The Dior woman will be chic but also a tomboy, wearing a sheer blouse, low-slung silver lame trousers with a denim waistband, platform loafers and bobby socks -- the look of the Teddy Boys in the 1950s in Britain.
The Teddy Boys, so named because they wore romantic Edwardian velvet jackets and ruffled shirts over stovepipe trousers, eventually exported their style to the United States. In both countries, the pompadour was a must.
Dior's winter accessories, like leopard-print bowling ball handbags in loud colors with dangling silver "D" blocks and logoed plexiglass bangle bracelets, are sure to be on every fashionista's shopping list.
Bernard Arnault, chairman of French luxury goods group LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton -- in which Christian Dior holds a controlling stake -- was all smiles in the front row. LVMH said Wednesday it expected a "tangible" increase in its 2004 results after posting a 30-percent rise in net profit for 2003.
Galliano, ever the showman, greeted the capacity crowd as the ultimate Teddy Boy, in a black and white check suit, jaunty hat and a lone greased curl dangling in his face.
In one word - vulgar. 
