Christian Dior F/W 2004.05 Paris

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It’s such an insane collection, but it’s so good.

The cherry on top is the Nina Simone soundtrack.
 
It's because of this collection I have a pair of cowhide derby docs with leopard print on them... And I love it.

Interesting how he took the manipulations from the Egyptian collection and made it into this. I find this to be a far more interesting offering than that couture show, which I find too saccharine and cliche with all it's tropes, fabrics and gestures. That show was between some of the most decadent couture collections though regarding fabric abundance. Between Spring 2003 and Fall 2004 couture collection, John certainly was feeling rather costumey (much like the Fall 1998 couture show).
 
Cocteau Stone said:
It's because of this collection I have a pair of cowhide derby docs with leopard print on them... And I love it.

Interesting how he took the manipulations from the Egyptian collection and made it into this. I find this to be a far more interesting offering than that couture show, which I find too saccharine and cliche with all it's tropes, fabrics and gestures. That show was between some of the most decadent couture collections though regarding fabric abundance. Between Spring 2003 and Fall 2004 couture collection, John certainly was feeling rather costumey (much like the Fall 1998 couture show).
Click to expand...
personally, i think ss04 and aw04 were more costumey than ss03. ss03 felt like genuine, interesting experimentations in volume and proportion. the use of brooms as crinoline, those giant opera coats and outsized kimonos... it was extraordinary
 
^ Oh don't get me wrong, I love Spring 2003 couture collection. It was the right kind of costumey, and was very innovative in ways that wasn't expected whilst still being so clear with the research and references that didn't make it all so obvious. Then there's the extravaganza of Fall 2003 which again was the right kind, but the following two were a trajectory that became a little too much.

But Galliano went through many of these phases during his time at Dior. Causes a strange cord to get cut that makes for a great following collection/s. Without the backlash of Fall 1998, we wouldn't get the personal palate cleanser of Spring 1999 (that wasn't that great, but was welcomed) which brought about Fall 1999 "Matrix" collection which kick started a new phase. Happens again between Fall 2004 and Spring 2005, then from Spring 2008-ish to the end of his tenure the whole push pull of it all was happening rapidly. Spring 2009 to Spring 2010 couture were kind of awful (particularly 2010... horrible stuffy satin pieces I'm sorry), but then Fall 2011 rolls around is fresh by comparison. This is all a bit generalised, because you also have moments like the 'Eyes Wide Shut'/Visconti collection.

It's always interesting to revisit his sets of collections, because much like his shows, Galliano's design tenure has very distinctive acts. Somewhat evident at Margiela too.
 
Cocteau Stone said:
^ Oh don't get me wrong, I love Spring 2003 couture collection. It was the right kind of costumey, and was very innovative in ways that wasn't expected whilst still being so clear with the research and references that didn't make it all so obvious. Then there's the extravaganza of Fall 2003 which again was the right kind, but the following two were a trajectory that became a little too much.

But Galliano went through many of these phases during his time at Dior. Causes a strange cord to get cut that makes for a great following collection/s. Without the backlash of Fall 1998, we wouldn't get the personal palate cleanser of Spring 1999 (that wasn't that great, but was welcomed) which brought about Fall 1999 "Matrix" collection which kick started a new phase. Happens again between Fall 2004 and Spring 2005, then from Spring 2008-ish to the end of his tenure the whole push pull of it all was happening rapidly. Spring 2009 to Spring 2010 couture were kind of awful (particularly 2010... horrible stuffy satin pieces I'm sorry), but then Fall 2011 rolls around is fresh by comparison. This is all a bit generalised, because you also have moments like the 'Eyes Wide Shut'/Visconti collection.

It's always interesting to revisit his sets of collections, because much like his shows, Galliano's design tenure has very distinctive acts. Somewhat evident at Margiela too.
Click to expand...
1997-2003 was a real golden age. the whole decon/recon direction he thrust dior into after the matrix showing has produced some of my favourite collections in fashion history. les clochards and freud/fetish in particular were absolutely sublime. aw02 is another huge standout.

i agree that everything started to go downhill from around 2008, but quite honestly the rot really started to set in with his 10th anniversary couture collection (aw07). that was pure costume parade. ss08 was ghastly which is a shame because galliano and klimt are (theoretically) a match made in heaven but that showing was so cumbersomely saccharine and derivative i couldn't stomach it. aw08 overdosed on the new look but it leaned more contemporary, so it gave the impression that things were looking up. but then ss09 rolled around and his dior just plummeted from that point onward.

that charles james/equestrian couture collection (spring 2010?) was the worst thing i think he's ever done and the previous cabine collection wasn't that much better either. you can tell he was in a really bad place at dior (not at galliano though, as his namesake collections at that time were pretty good) and i think steven robinson's death was probably the straw that broke the camel's back.
 
My favorite RTW collection from John at Dior!
It’s a fabulous mess!
I was really impressed by the whole thing and how excessive that whole exercise was!

I jumped on the Dior Rasta train at the time even if ultimately, I’m not and wasn’t a Dior woman. My second favorite RTW by John for Dior is the SS1999 which is more in tune with my personal style.

As much as I liked this collection and I loved those Dior days (the first designer Handbag that I purchased was a Dior messenger Saddle bag from the fall 2002 collection), it kinda reflects the identity crisis of the house at that time, despite the glorious creativity and intellectual symbiosis between Galliano and Dior. Galliano understood the spirit but somehow forgot about the house.

Going to a Dior store at the time was a real eye-opener on that identity crisis. The Lady Dior wasn’t a best seller at that time so it was all about Dior Addict, Saddle…etc. There was logo everywhere, satin everywhere, some tacky jeans and of course the J’Adore Dior tshirts and a small selection of conservative clothes.
It felt somehow logical for Arnault to stop the machine and for John to get back on track. Literally 1 year after this show, there were slowly moving back to a more classic aesthetic.

Nevertheless, a fabulous collection, a fabulous show and I have always loved that bow of his!
 
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