Christian Dior Haute Couture F/W 2024.25 Paris

despise the set, don’t mind (some of) the clothes… that being said, christian dior is NOT ancient greece
That's Madame Grès without the taste. Azzedine Alaia had a very impressive collection of Madame Grès, and they were brilliant.

MGC deserves the Nobel Prize in Medicine because she definitely found a cure for insomnia.

On a more serious note: why Dior is keeping Haute Couture ateliers in Paris, those garments could easily be produced in Madagascar and Mumbai now? You should just the suits would happily close the Paris ateliers to produce in those countries, if Dior wasn't so much associated with Paris...
 
On a more serious note: why Dior is keeping Haute Couture ateliers in Paris, those garments could easily be produced in Madagascar and Mumbai now? You should just the suits would happily close the Paris ateliers to produce in those countries, if Dior wasn't so much associated with Paris...
take dior out of paris and the entire brand loses its myth. that's the problem today; houses like chanel and dior have entirely lost sight of just how much the mythologisation of their founders and history has kept them afloat. you can't cut corners on couture.
 
I’m watching look 17 now and starting to feel sleepy, if I don’t post again it’s because I died of boredom. It was a pleasure to meet you all.
 
Her shows actually do her a major disservice. If these creations were simply, casually, effortlessly shown on hangers—better still, on mannequins, her straightforward, no-nonsense, flattering, pragmatic sensibility of designs that flatter a women’s form rather than hinder it, would be more appreciated. Women can imagine themselves in these, and that’s more powerful than how she’s presenting it now. Peter Hawkings has the same problems with his Tom Ford shows.

(Could do without the Haute Couture underwear LOL)
Absolutely 100%. I’ve seen some of her couture creations on mannequins at various museum shows and without exception, I was like “oh wow, I get it now”. That feeling never sticks, though, because, to your point, she keeps undermining herself with subpar presentations (sometimes because what’s on the runway cannot compete with the set it’s presented in)…but also a lack of editing or an over-reliance on “sending a message”.

On first inspection, this collection doesn’t really move me in a good or bad way. I feel quite neutral, which in itself is not necessarily a good thing for what is supposed to be the epitome of a brand’s creative expression.
 
Mary Grace never disappoints!! She is like a reliable clock that wakes you up, just when you were in a deep and sweet Dior dream...and then suddenly reality hits you in the head like a ton of their clothes bricks!
 
It isn't bad, but I'm so distracted by the tank and halter-tank top necklines.

Not that they can't be at a couture show/collection, but you have to have a bit of a design knack to really make them work. And to also not run the risk of broadening the model's shoulders too. I do like the 20s-meets-antiquity references in this for their ease. Nice to kind of pare back and look at the likes of even Gres and Vionnet. Maria just makes them look too slouchy to look like couture (or the models do that, or maybe it's both).

The sportif references though are a strong dupe for Lanvin's Spring 2011 collection (among others). Miles ahead of this, but I'm very, very biased.
 
It's becoming painfully clear that when Maria Grazia presents Ancient Greco-Roman clothes / collections like this at Dior, it means they didn't have time to come up with any real ideas. It's her back-up plan and it has been done ad infinitum. And before that too it was already done one million times at Valentino. And to much better effect. I don't think you can top what she did with Pierpaolo for Haute Couture in 2015. The clothes, the set, the ambience, everything - it was truly sublime. And then to see this "interpretation" of that same theme. It's quite depressing really.

Seriously though, what is her obsession with bringing Ancient Greece and Rome into the Dior vocabulary? It doesn't really make any sense with the history of the Maison, and the more she pushes it, the more awkward it appears.

Don't get me started on the set design. Truly ghastly and distracting. I feel sorry for all those women who spent months embroidering this....
 
boring with extra boring models who can’t even stand with their shoulders straight and walk without showing despair.
I only liked 5 looks (and I’m being nice)
 
Why is the draping always so sloppy?
She's literally throwing fabric around. Or making elongated t-shirts it's like they're on a budget. They're clearly not even sketching anymore it's her greatest hits collection, the things that she sells the most.

Screenshot_20240625-083225~2.png Screenshot_20240625-093553~2.png
 
to call this Haute Couture is one of fashion’s biggest insults EVER.

all this terrible draping and folding got me having flashbacks of myself as a child, wrapping my cousin’s Barbies with kitchen cloths and bedside table napperons.
it was only cute for a 5 year old.
 
It doesn’t feel like Dior to me. This is very much her safe space. I’m sure it’s all nicely made, but to me this would work better at something like Saab.

What’s lacking here is a sharper silhouette, I associate Dior with more of an ambitious shape than these meek gowns. The Dior woman here feels lost and depressed.

I can’t believe they’re keeping her there, surely lvmh sees the same thing?
 
Everyone here keeps bringing up the romanticism of Dior that has kept this brand alive and that’s what makes this collection specifically so pedestrian! I’m pretty sure my mom fashioned a similar dress for a halloween party I decided to attend last minute and used a blanket for a greek goddess look. It’s very lazy but I think we can keep expecting the same from Dior for years to come whether couture or rtw. If it sells, don’t fix it.
 
take dior out of paris and the entire brand loses its myth. that's the problem today; houses like chanel and dior have entirely lost sight of just how much the mythologisation of their founders and history has kept them afloat. you can't cut corners on couture.
I know you can't take Paris out the myth of these houses, but it's really obvious Dior by MGC is dying to cut corners and outsource every where they can. Or at least that's what her output looks like, because there is nothing truly unique here, nor aesthetically neither technically.
 
Maria should give a campaign to Jennifer Lopez, it was the only time I saw someone so good with one of her creations...
 

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