Christian Dior Haute Couture S/S 06 Paris

Discussion in 'History of Style : A Remembrance of Things Past' started by Salvatore, Jan 23, 2006.

  1. j´adore dior

    j´adore dior New Member

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    ^ who, the overweighted man wearing a white beret and a pink scarf?... if that who you are talking about i think his name is or he likes to be called kapauf and is a journalist from citizen K.
     
  2. Mutterlein

    Mutterlein Well-Known Member

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    Oh?

    'On Monday, Mr. Galliano sent out a provocative collection with allusions — in the rough work boots and red-splattered white organza — to the French Revolution and, not incidentally, to the recent riots in France.

    "Hopefully, it goes to the heart of what's happening today," said Mr. Galliano, who began work on the collection around the time the disturbances — the worst since the student riots of 1968 — started.'

    -Cathy Horyn, Style Editor for the New York Times, published Jan 26, 2006

    Yes I have seen the video, which only confirmed what an atrocious collection this was. Tacky? Where shall I begin? Maybe it it the blood splattered shoes done with so much much zeal it brings to mind children's halloween costumes more than an Haute Couture collection. Or perhaps it is the gaudy make up (as much I love Ms. Mcgrath) which has fallen victim again to Galliano's penchant for the absurd. It goes well beyond theatrics and enters into the questionable realm of drag queen showmanship.

    But those are just make up and accessories, let's talk about the clothes. The clothes which are so lacking could have made the awful display of bad taste excusable. When a woman buys Dior Couture does she really need it printed in huge text onto her garment for a reminder? Perhaps this is Galliano's attempt to directly market towards the base consumer of Dior goods, logoed rich girls with a fondness for saddle bags and J'dore t's. Galliano could also use a reminder that just because he superfluously uses fabric, does not make it Couture. The sloppy and half-hazard draping looks as skillfully conceived as the doodles of a 13 year old girl bored in her history class ready to go with glitter pen in hand. John returned to what he likes, S&M references, beaten and tired ideas of deconstruction, and big big volumes that loudly proclaim their space and presence but fall short as ostentatious gimmicks whose bark is much worse than their bite. Broken corsets and various other historical under structures (crinolines, bustles) smack of Galliano's inability to sustain growth and advancement. Looks this time closely resembled parts of his own past collections up to 6 years ago. The show is not without it's strengths, but Galliano's usual arsenal was absent. The craftsmanship can be sure to be the finest. Detailing like embroidery and beading as misused as it is can be expected to be impeccable. This has more to do with the the work and skill of the atelier and workshop workers who labored over this collection and not Galliano.

    Fashion is hard to use as a means to be vocal about politics and the sensitivities that go on in the world. It's a luxury goods industry and such commentary seems inappropriate and devoid of pathos or credibility. It doesn't get anymore luxurious than Haute Couture. Perhaps Galliano is commenting about the horrible state of affairs in France right now with it's racism, classism, and complete denial of what has been an awful situation for the people sequestered in Paris' ghettos. I just don't see how $100,000 dresses telling the story can really be all that convincing. To make the assumption that Galliano understands their plight and is tying it in to his collection is ludicrous. That is even tackier than the clothes.

    those are just my two cents. not trying to be a debbie downer here.
     
  3. Mutterlein

    Mutterlein Well-Known Member

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    he did, I was hoping someone would be able to call him out on his b.s. though.
     
  4. iluvjeisa

    iluvjeisa clever ain't wise

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    Yes, now that I think about it - general interest papers wouldn't be interested enough in fashion to interpret it. They'll just report how much skin was exposed at the shows...

    Obviously, I was not wondering in what way the collection is tacky, because even though I find it more interesting than tacky, I can certainly understand that blood splatter all over the couture dresses could be described as tacky. However, what I really wanted to know was why it was tacky for editors to draw parallels between the collection and recent events. You said "I just don't like that editors are drawing parallels between this and the recent riots in France, that is really tacky to me and something naive fashion writers would do." This was a strange statement to me because why shouldn't fashion reporters be reporting what Mr. Galliano himself says was a major inspiration for the collection? Any criticism regarding the overt message of the collection should be directed toward Galliano himself.

    I don't think that reusing shapes he developed before is such a bad thing. After all, Chanel dresses certainly often look like they could have been made 20/30 years ago - even though some don't. No, IMO, whether you like this collection or not boils down to is two things:

    1) Do you like goth and S&M references? Do you like the emotion these kinds of references provoke? If you don't, then you're likely to feel that this has been done before and that it's silly. Next please. But if you do like Edward Gorey and Aubrey Beardsley, and if Marquis de Sade makes you laugh rather than cringe, then you might feel differently. You might then feel that making the S&M references in his work more prominent, Galliano is bringing forth one of sources of inspiration for him to use broken corsets in his work in the first place.

    2) Do you like political messages in your fashion?

    3) Do you think that it the collection is beautiful?


    I must confess, I'm all for goth and S&M references, but I don't really like political messages in fashion - or in fact in any artistic expression. It bores me - I read newspapers, books and blogs on political topics, there is no need for it in my cultural intake. Unless it is subtle enough not to disturb.

    I obviously don't know exactly what he means by the collection, but it seems rather obvious that to make Couture wearers dress like reapers with "Liberté, égalité, fraternité, ou la mort !" written all over them, when one of those dresses could feed an average European family for years, nevermind what it could do for a family in an underpriviliged region, could be perceived as ironic. Or as a challenge to the buyer.

    As, for what I think of the quality of this collection - I found half of the outfits intriguing and sexy, but I would have preferred the other half of the dresses to be more beautiful/poetic than gory.
     
    #324 iluvjeisa, Jan 27, 2006
    Last edited by moderator julyandluvy: Jan 27, 2006
  5. Faith Akiyama

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    Oh I see! :P :lol:
     
  6. Mutterlein

    Mutterlein Well-Known Member

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    I find it tacky on both Galliano and the editor's part, specifically Cathy Horyn. Galliano for having the audacity to suggest his collection could seriously tackle such an issue and Horyn for buying into it. It shows a gross insenstivity and a self-congratulatory attitude that feigns good intention but in the end fails to address any real issue.

    The collection with all of it's historical allegory and flashy details just falled short. Do I like S&M, sure why not? I liked it the first time Galliano did it and the second time, but for the umpteenth time it loses it's relevence and becomes a tangent fantasy that I was hoping some of the better fashion minds would not also lose themselves in, nevermind Bernard Arnault or Dior's prominent couture clients.

    Political messages in fashion can sometimes work. Issey Miyake's A-poc clothing inherently speaks volumes for the way the clothing and textile industry will head in the near future and what amenities it will afford those who are currently in need. He doesn't need an exspensive show and A-list celebrities to show this, rather he can direct you to the material research and engineering leaps that are being made within his studio and science laboratories. This is all from a man who was trained in french Haute Couture. With political messages, of the likes Galliano makes, it is becomes no more than a gimmick and for anyone who really reads the news, a complete disgust.

    This collection is a farce on the fashion industry. Galliano's well of creativity has run dry, at least for Dior Couture.
     
  7. Zazie

    Zazie Active Member

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    The statement stands - one clear recent example would completely collapse your "argument". Just consider the 6 million Jews (most of them Germans by birth), dying without ever being able to "rebel" against the SS, and they didn't even have the bombs we have today.

    If we are talking about blood and death, right now, there is very real blood spilt, and the innocent ones, women and children dying cannot do a single thing about it. The ones ordering the killing are the richest and most powerful in the world against the weakest and most defenseless, and realistically, at no point will the situation ever reverse. This is gross injustice and murder, and contravenes international law, but so what? The more deadly the weaponry, the less likely anyone, even hundreds of thousands of them, can ever meaningfully "rebel". That is one *huge* difference from 300 years ago.

    Frankly, I myself wonder if one day, I'd be dragged screaming away like Winston in 1984, for having the incorrect opinion. It is not so inconceivable anymore. The more powerful people get away with murder without any accountability, the closer we get to this situation.

    I appreciate Galliano for attempting political statements, his heart is in the right place, but he gets it all wrong. The angry youths of the banlieux will not get anywhere. The Revolution will never happen.

    Raf Simons tied kaffiyeh scarves around his gorgeous models once, and he got it right. That statement made a difference.
     
  8. iluvjeisa

    iluvjeisa clever ain't wise

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    I never said genocide could not happen. So this does not "collapse my argument". I just said that under certain conditions it's likely (in human nature) for rebellion to occur. Clearly, this doesn't happen in every conflict.

    Anyway, I agree with you on some things but disagree about other things. I'll take this to PM right now because I don't think I can stay on topic anymore. I guess I'm still wondering how you can be so sure what Galliano really wanted to say - the show seemed pretty ambiguous to me. Anyway...PM it is :wink:
     
    #328 iluvjeisa, Jan 28, 2006
    Last edited by moderator julyandluvy: Jan 28, 2006
  9. iluvjeisa

    iluvjeisa clever ain't wise

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    Still, other designers often develop their style, involving certain techniques and preferences regarding material, color and the use of material. I don't see why Galliano's recurring theme of S&M paraphernalia would necessarily be any worse than Lagerfeld's (and Chanel's) preference for a lady like, preppy, early late 50s/60s look.

    Unless of course, you prefer careful, cautious, perfectionism of Chanel over the dramatic exhibitionism of Dior. I find myself loving both. Lagerfeld is continuing the tradition of Chanel and is adding his own style influences quite beautifully, in my opinion. However, Dior seems to me to have changed far more with each designer in chief than Chanel has. But ever since some of the ground breaking advertisements of Dior during the 70s - they've had a distinctly decadent niche to fill in fashion. Galliano is definitely persuing that path.


    Actually, you can "really read the news" and still find his interpretation or ambiguous message moderately interesting, provided that the fashions displayed are enjoyable.:wink:
     
  10. j´adore dior

    j´adore dior New Member

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    although this wan´t my dream Dior show i still wanna save it but they have changed the extention of the video, does someone have the same problem and know how to fix it?, thanks in advance:flower:
     
  11. Frida

    Frida Active Member

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    The executioner Doutzen birth the same day of the show, she look so cute...

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  12. Mutterlein

    Mutterlein Well-Known Member

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    Lagerfeld's stagnant reworkings of Chanel's orginal aesthetic are at least appropriate for the brand and customer. With Galliano it becomes more about satisfying his own vision and it doesn't really have much to do with the brand. Of course, it sells extremely well and that is probably all that needs to be said. Sex sells, and part of my agitation with Galliano is his lack of skill in using it as a design tool. Not that he hasn't had his moments, the last two couture collections were the best of his most recent efforts. But part of me really wonders why to even bother with Galliano when designers in their 20's and 30's are up to much better things. Nicholas Ghesquire and Olivier Theyskens are the most obvious examples of designers IMO who have surpassed Galliano. Ricardo Tisci, once he is grounded, isn't too bad either.


    When you read the news on a normal basis, it's hard to imagine a fashion show offering any real abating ideas to problems that are drastically out of it's scope. Not that it can't be thoughtful, but usually it just ends up being patronizing and inconsequential.
     
  13. JJohnson

    JJohnson New Member

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    Hey the new Dior formats is in .flv so wait on it to pop up in the temporary internet files directory...but i use the FLVPlayer to view my files go here to get a copy http://www.martijndevisser.com/archives/000063.php Marc Jacobs also uses this format for his online shows
     
  14. Ceptuouse

    Ceptuouse New Member

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    From news.sawf.org :flower:
     
  15. Guessgirl96

    Guessgirl96 New Member

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    This is just a random guess, but could it be that interior designer that did anna nicoles and mandy moore's house?
     
  16. Royal-Galliano

    Royal-Galliano völlig losgelöst

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    OMG generally she looks horrible but this is ultrahorror! :sick:
     
    #336 Royal-Galliano, Jan 29, 2006
    Last edited by moderator sunflower: Jan 29, 2006
  17. Ceptuouse

    Ceptuouse New Member

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    thankyou:woot:
     
  18. mk0702

    mk0702 New Member

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  19. j´adore dior

    j´adore dior New Member

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    thanks :flower:
     
  20. Ceptuouse

    Ceptuouse New Member

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    the backstage video is now up on dior.com :flower:
     

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