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Discussion in 'History of Style : a remembrance of things past' started by Scotty, May 4, 2019.
I thought I'd share:
Beyond fabulous. That "Jerry! Jerry! Jerry!" chant on the soundtrack is so iconic.
When fashion was so fun.
SS 2001 wasn't John's season. Too many good and iconic collections...
I've always hated this collection and still today, it's one of the worst he did at Dior ever...But what a show! That was the magic of that time. Models were almost performers, the soundtrack was fabulous and even if the clothes weren't great, it became so ridiculous that it became good.
And talk about total creative control! It's hard to imagine that Dior was like that once.This is Dior targeting the millenials in the early 00's...So this is Galliano targeting a younger me. That was the time when Dior started to be a real big selling machine .
Almost all the ingredients that brands are still using today to target that generation were there: T-shirts, denim, a certain idea of streetwear and logos a gogo!
Every young girl wanted a Dior T-shirt and a saddle bag.
Fashion was so fun because it was all so new. That era of Dior was almost a total gamble.
Lola, it’s so true. Total creative control. And look at the results! It’s bursting with energy, life, creativity, humor, spectacle. No wonder it was a hit!
And also so true about John providing the public a real, accessible offering of products...t-shirts, jeans, bags, sexy little dresses, bathing suits, etc. It was a genius strategy. It’s all here.
The Matrix Couture collection was definitely the turning point for John at Dior - after two years of very pretty, albeit more traditional looking collections (still amazing), the Fall 1999 Couture show I think was so impactful because it was the first time that a Parisian Couture house had a designer come in and instead of uphold a legacy (like Gianfranco Ferre’s tenure, for example), John was able to get to the core of Dior’s cache and interpret it for the contemporary world he lived in.
Think about it...by today’s standards...The New Look is rather conservative. But put in context of decimated post-War Paris, a world of rations and sobriety, you realize how truly shocking a skirt was using meters and meters of fabric really was!
John’s most creative period at Dior - from 1999 to 2006 - you realize he was remaking Dior in that same strategy for the aughts. Shocking. Irreverent. Decadent. Brave. Glamorous. Excessive and exuberant. I think it’s why his tenure at Dior is so legendary. It was the perfect example of reviving a house. It was electric!
I also think it’s why...when things began to take a turn for the worse, post-Madame Butterfly collection...when all he did was reinterpret the literal New Look again and again...it had no life...it was the literal interpretation of Dior...not the interpretation of the spirit of it, anymore.
John in a way was almost a heir of Karl in that aspect. They both started with a modern interpretation of the aesthetic of the house then, went totally crazy to finally establish a more classic vision for the house.
The only difference is that I will always feel a bit weird about John’s tenure at Dior because unfortunately, I don’t think the pressure of Arnault helped Dior at the end.
I remember after the fabulous RTW FW04 (maybe my favorite RTW with SS1999 from John), he was asked to clean everything and to gradually return to something more classic.
I wonder how things would have turned out if it was as genuine and instinctive as his bold move from 1999.
Because let’s be honest, when you have such a powerful voice like John, clients follows. I think they didn’t let the new clientele (us millennials) evolve gradually.
At the time millenials had enough money to be able to buy at retail price, Dior, while still relevant, looked so grown compared to Lanvin, YSL or Chanel.
The irony of Dior adapting today the early 00’s Galliano formula with a less talented designer. And it’s also quite sad to see that the house still struggle to have a vision as strong as the one Galliano had.
I’m thinking about the fashion landscape and how despite the financial success we see, the majority of the houses who ruled fashion for the past 20 years are almost sleeping beauties in the creative aspect (Dior, Givenchy, YSL, Lanvin, Prada and I want to say Gucci and Balenciaga). The competitive aspect and the fact that every season almost created a new frenzy are all gone.