^^^ Viv had her time and no doubt she was a force of fashion in the 80s, but she's clearly stalled at this point. Her collections have been the samo samo for nearly two decades now. the last time I remember Viv doing something great was back in the early 90s when she sent out silhouettes with the exaggerated Victorian-bums. Rei is completely on another level, plane, even dimension.
I love Rei's beautiful mind. CDG womenswear is the only label from her that matters to me, the other branches are all throwaway and forgettable compared to her womenswear. I don't think I've ever not been impressed with any of her CDG womenswear collections. And this is no exception. Her combination of anarchy, chaos and classlessness makes Punk look ultra-conservative, meek and bland.
There's a kaleidoscopic MadHatter's sort of excess I love about this collection-- except it's not hats; it's bolts of fabrics, shreds of fabric, twists of fabrics, and even colorful children's japanese wrapping paper all meticulously and masterfully, delightfully sewn into garments. I particularly love all the pinstripes because they remind me of her earlier work back in the 80s-- except more deranged , but never undisciplined. And there's nothing retro or nostalgic here; The woman only looks towards pushing ahead. Thom Browne can only wish he could conjure such fantastical silhouettes. Even the plain shoes with ankle socks create a striking compliment to these creations: business women gone mad. None of these strokes of fashion genius will ever see the light of day outside this show and editorials, of course-- but it matters not; she's already worked her wonderful poison into my head.