Comme des Garçons Homme Plus F/W 14.15 Paris

[Scott]

the raf showroom needs to be posted in his thread as well…stunning!!

 

[margielamike2004]

I agree..the Raf pieces in the showroom are considerably stunning, too...but I figured I'd keep both collections separate from one another.

In regards to the journalist reviews of the show....I think it was hysterical how off-the-mark most of them were in regards to explaining this collection. In some ways....a few fashion journalists hit upon some significant observations...but overall, the majority were all incredibly wrong.

But...trying to predict the outcome of what Rei will do next is very unassuming. Even before the show is even presented...I try to imagine what the new collection will look like.....and every time I get it all wrong. But...that's part of the thrill of enjoying CGDHP....you can never put your finger on it. Some things are easy to assume.....such as the fabrics she might use....the boiled wool and poly pieces for example....or jackets with shirt-tales....deconstruction, etc...but too much of anything else is impossible to predict.

Most other fashion designers out there are considerably one-note. You know what they're going to present....you can predict what the story of the collection will possibly be....they're too mundane and predictable.....essentially boring and too redundant. You definitely can't say the same for CDGHP, that's for sure.

 

[margielamike2004]

I actually love the wide cut of the trousers.....it reminds me of the same cuts Rei used within her "Decadence" collection.

I know the cut is not entirely flattering on anyone's body....unless you're over 6 feet tall....but lets keep in mind that we're talking about Rei Kawakubo, here. She has a total disregard for caring about the way a particular cut will flatter one's body. She's the same designer who presented a collection for women..... that was riddled with intentional lumps-and-bumps within the garments. I'm more than sure Rei realized that her collection was never intended to "flatter" anyone's body.

One of the reasons why I like the wide-cut trousers...is b/c it's not following any trend. I mean, lets face it....I've see tons and tons of men who have jumped onto the skinny trouser/jean trend...that it's now become almost uniform...and boring. It's too much like the old-skool checklist by Dior Homme: Slim pants...short, fitted jackets...skinny necktie.....skinny lapel on the jackets...small collars on the shirts...graphic t-shirts...generic-looking sneakers...etc etc. That whole skinny silhouette is so tired, over-played, and so over-done to death...you could stick it with a fork. It's too much like what's now being shown for men at YSL by Hedi Slimane. It's the same redundant look...just change the colors...the patterns of the fabrics...the materials that are used...the hairstyles on the men... and the story of the collection...it's still the same look...the same cut....and the same boringly predictable presentation. It's too Retro-fashion...been there, done that, lets move on.

 

[Scott]

yeah,i'm really liking this slow return to more volume when it comes to trouser cuts. the skinny brigade has worn tired for me.

btw,it was revealed that rei went to her archives,specifically her debut with the hole jumpers,for this collection. it's fantastic to be as innovative as she has and have the body of work she's got…she could reinterpret so many ideas today and it feels absolutely refreshing. she needs no outside influence whatsoever,really.

and here's a fantastic article from julien d'ys on the hair sculpture--
http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/18539/1/creating-comme-des-garcons-aw14-hair

i love the fact that they have such a solid collaboration together she needs not give him any specific themes….and the hair really makes the whole narrative that much more powerful and intense.

 

[margielamike2004]

Great article, Scott!!

Although I do like what Julien Dy's did with the black wigs....I tend to overlook a model's hair. I never completely ignore it.....b/c hairstyles are a way to tell which sets the tone, the theme, and a story within a collection. For instance, if the models had pompadour hairstyles, you could predict there must be a 1950's Rockabilly theme to the collection....or if the models were wearing white powdered wigs...you could predict there must be a Victorian/Washington-Era to the collection, etc etc.

I tend to take a keener not to the clothes that are presented....and the accessories.

I will admit I absolutely hate the footwear in this collection.

The black ankle-boots with the colored suede pieces attached are okay....but nothing spectacular.

The sport shoes/sneakers with the hole cut-outs are awful. I understand that he hole cut-outs help to pull the story of the collection together...but they're just a bit too uninspiring to me....and a bit too DIY to appreciate. They look like a home project gone bad.....a lazy customization technique done to a pair of Vans-style sneakers that were sitting in a closet for too many years...LOL.

I guess the flip-side to that perspective about the sneakers is they're so incredibly DIY....you could spend 40-60 dollars on a pair of Van's....instead of spending 2-3 hundred on something identical by CDGHP??

In regards to Rei Kawakubo harking-back to her archive collections from the past for inspiration...I get the feeling that she might actually be considering her exit and retirement from the fashion industry. She keeps reflecting backwards.....kinda like a reminder of all the things she has presented and explored in the past....and the things from her past that have established who she is in the fashion industry, today.