Bernadette
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Comme des Garçons S/S 2014 Paris
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Bernadette
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is this like a deformed chanel? i see a lot of classic chanel elements interpreted. perhaps often being compared to the icon,kawakubo wanted to pay tribute to the legacy in her way. not bad but not as brilliant as autumn.
TheoG
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I definitively seen the Chanel element of this collection, I think you hit the nail on the head with this.
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I am glad I am not the only one who saw Chanel; the fourth look even looks like the chanel logo
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It has to be Chanel; that's what I thought too. But then I was wondering if the allusions spread to other iconic designers too?
The head and hair pieces are outrageously cool!! And the first and last looks are unforgettable.
The head and hair pieces are outrageously cool!! And the first and last looks are unforgettable.
Well, that certainly made me laugh. After, what, ten or so seasons of beautifully cerebral (and brilliant) collections, I was wondering if it was about time Rei showed something just truly bonkers (the S/S 2007 show being the last one, I believe; F/W 2012 was almost there, were it not so strangely seductive). I guess she was fed up with the good press she was getting and simply wanted to produce an entirely undesirable collection 
I thought it was funny that in making an homage to Chanel, she succeeded in creating its antithesis: complete and utter undesirability (although I personally find Chanel so undesirable). The punchline being that this collection can be seen as a success in that light. Oh Rei, you know we'll always indulge you.
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It has to be Chanel; that's what I thought too. But then I was wondering if the allusions spread to other iconic designers too?
The head and hair pieces are outrageously cool!! And the first and last looks are unforgettable.
The floral print might be a reference to Chloe when Karl Lagerfeld was designing for the label. On the other hand, you could also say it's a reference to Ossie Clark and Celia Birtwell...
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"Rei Kawakubo says she couldn't think of anything new so didn't make clothes"
jeanclaude
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I think there are a lot of interesting concepts and ideas, that could be translated into wearable garments (i hope so).
By the way, I am the only one that cannot relate this to Chanel...apart from colours and some vague elements.
By the way, I am the only one that cannot relate this to Chanel...apart from colours and some vague elements.
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i don't think i've never seen a collection before that is so difficult to like, it's quite amazing really.
in an industry that seems more interested in pleasing as many people as possible than focussing on themes like originality and creativity this feels like a breath of fresh air to me
in an industry that seems more interested in pleasing as many people as possible than focussing on themes like originality and creativity this feels like a breath of fresh air to me
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Bernadette
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Remember when the world was flat? That was back in fall 2012. Now it’s as 3-D as can be, all arcs, curves, circles and swirls in a collection that nevertheless referenced Rei Kawakubo’s groundbreaking 2-D collection with its first look out — a black dress (of sorts), its sheer bodice revealing a harness underneath, its huge skirt made of what appeared to be stiffened organza, rippling like waves and bordered in padded velvet.
A little help here, Rei? “The only way to create something new was to start without the intention of making clothes,” she said backstage postshow.
Got it. Well, maybe not. That Kawakubo challenges is a given; the questions each season are how and why. Is she making a major proclamation on the state of fashion or the larger world? Is she mocking us for assuming so? Does she ever think, in the deepest, most private recesses of her mind and soul, “Commercial — that’s what resort’s for”?
Kawakubo’s runway suggested spring’s antiflat manifesto; the models traversed a large, gently sloping arc of unpainted wood. There were lots of bound arms and harness constructions, and some pieces were framed on pannierlike cages. Even given such recurrences, each look was wildly different from the one that preceded it, a point highlighted by the soundtrack: Every girl had her very own, its music (or other sounds) unrelated to the next. Some in the audience viewed the cages as exoskeletons; was there a bug motif?
One thought crossed the mind: that Kawakubo was in twisted merch mode, set on delivering something for everyone in the world’s most perverse lifestyle lineup. Cocktail Dominatrix in harness and flounce. Pretty Crazy in Pink with separation issues (teddy bear attached). Galactic Morticia in saucer skirt with train. Lolita at the Asylum in baby-doll pleats. There was even a perversion of a chic chemise. And were the big black overlapping curves on white canvas intended to reference the rue Cambon?
The show triggered countless other questions, rumblings, musings, as we expect of any Kawakubo extravaganza, and along with them, the raw, rare excitement that such uncertainty brings. Nearly four weeks into the season, that’s called fashion fabulous.
Source: wwd.com
A little help here, Rei? “The only way to create something new was to start without the intention of making clothes,” she said backstage postshow.
Got it. Well, maybe not. That Kawakubo challenges is a given; the questions each season are how and why. Is she making a major proclamation on the state of fashion or the larger world? Is she mocking us for assuming so? Does she ever think, in the deepest, most private recesses of her mind and soul, “Commercial — that’s what resort’s for”?
Kawakubo’s runway suggested spring’s antiflat manifesto; the models traversed a large, gently sloping arc of unpainted wood. There were lots of bound arms and harness constructions, and some pieces were framed on pannierlike cages. Even given such recurrences, each look was wildly different from the one that preceded it, a point highlighted by the soundtrack: Every girl had her very own, its music (or other sounds) unrelated to the next. Some in the audience viewed the cages as exoskeletons; was there a bug motif?
One thought crossed the mind: that Kawakubo was in twisted merch mode, set on delivering something for everyone in the world’s most perverse lifestyle lineup. Cocktail Dominatrix in harness and flounce. Pretty Crazy in Pink with separation issues (teddy bear attached). Galactic Morticia in saucer skirt with train. Lolita at the Asylum in baby-doll pleats. There was even a perversion of a chic chemise. And were the big black overlapping curves on white canvas intended to reference the rue Cambon?
The show triggered countless other questions, rumblings, musings, as we expect of any Kawakubo extravaganza, and along with them, the raw, rare excitement that such uncertainty brings. Nearly four weeks into the season, that’s called fashion fabulous.
Source: wwd.com
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