Amazing collection!!
In regards to when and why the presentation of skirts appears in one collection, but not in another....is all in the mind of Rei Kawakubo.
In some collections, the skirts are quite obvious....but in this collection....the longer pieces, worn underneath a shorter garment, gives the "illusion" that a skirt is being worn. It's all in the manner of deceiving the eye.
The tattoo print does look considerably familiar. I've see something similar presented in her women's collection from several years ago, and also in her most recent collection for the women's Fall/Winter 2013 collection.
Although the do look similar, I don't think they're identical.
I especially like the plaid presentations in this collection....and I do like that she added a bit of deconstruction into this men's collection.
I love the double-sleeve sport-coats that seem to be falling apart from the shoulder-line....and on the backside of some of the jackets, it appears as though re-attached fabric is peeling off.
The harness-like pieces are quite interesting, too...it seems like she's integrating some of her women's wear ideas, into her men's collection.