Courrèges Resort 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It's what Coperni was trying to do but couldn't quite achieve.

Very 90's

Reminds me of Helmut Lang.

 

[tricotineacetat]

It's what Coperni was trying to do but couldn't quite achieve.

Very 90's

Reminds me of Helmut Lang.

Not sure what lead to the Coperni guys leaving Courreges, but considering that a lot of influential retailers at the time jumped on board and their vision showed promise, I don't think the designers were to blame. I don't quite appreciate their own brand but their Courreges was in many ways similar to what Di Felice did, although at a time when the market wasn't ready for it yet - I kinda wished they kept the re-branding introduced during the Coperni years as it looks way more modern and timely than the one Di Felice returned to (including the old logo that ruins all their outerwear to me...).

 

[perhydrol]

I absolutely love this collection. It's a focused, sharp, and sensual reinterpretation of the minimalism of the early 00's. What's more, not only is it way more interesting than Coperni, but it also doesn't need any gimmicks. I can't wait for the menswear collection, but I hope it will be as strong as this one.

 

[LadyJunon]

Not sure what lead to the Coperni guys leaving Courreges, but considering that a lot of influential retailers at the time jumped on board and their vision showed promise, I don't think the designers were to blame. I don't quite appreciate their own brand but their Courreges was in many ways similar to what Di Felice did, although at a time when the market wasn't ready for it yet.

In all honesty, I think that the issue Coperni's Courrèges had is that while the individual pieces were good, the whole image had a dusty 70s department store feeling in its feel. Di Felice's Courrèges has a more modern high-fashion packaging to it.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Not sure what lead to the Coperni guys leaving Courreges, but considering that a lot of influential retailers at the time jumped on board and their vision showed promise, I don't think the designers were to blame. I don't quite appreciate their own brand but their Courreges was in many ways similar to what Di Felice did, although at a time when the market wasn't ready for it yet - I kinda wished they kept the re-branding introduced during the Coperni years as it looks way more modern and timely than the one Di Felice returned to (including the old logo that ruins all their outerwear to me...).

In contrast the Coperni Courreges was a lot messier.

NDF is a lot more thought out. It's a real system and every piece makes sense.

I think when you actually look at the clothes available to purchase, it's a very different thing.

Ultimately I think NDF is a better designer.

 

[LadyJunon]

In all honesty, I can't help but feel impressed with how Di Felice and Da Maia (the CEO) have turned Courrèges around:
• They redirected the label away from Zobel's overly referential space-age to a sleeker sexier take on André Courrèges' aesthetic, with a focus on everyday clothing.
• They've established a permanent offering alongside the seasonal collections, creating a security net that will allow Di Felice to experiment later in his tenure without alienated the clientele along with a revamped fragrance line.
• They've established a set of branding indentifiers: the white square/box for runway settings, the reissue of the abstract dual flower AC logo, the references to Belgian rave culture, the use of metal and glass in imagery and retail spaces.
• They've redecorated the François 1er boutique, opened two more in Paris, a fourth in New York and there's plans for a fifth in Los Angeles.
• They've repositioning Courrèges as an advanced contemporary label, placing it aside other cool luxury adjacent lines such as Miu Miu, Jacquemus, Diesel and Blumarine.
• They've released three bags that could potentially be part of the permanent offering: The Loop, The One (impressive pattern work on that one) and The Racer.

It shows that they're going out of their way to ensure Reboot Courrèges' success and it seems to be working. Hopefully they continue to strengthen their menswear and footwear offerings and maybe give us a relaunch of the "In Blue" perfume. If they do this right, this could become the next Balenciaga.

 

[Lola701]

Not sure what lead to the Coperni guys leaving Courreges, but considering that a lot of influential retailers at the time jumped on board and their vision showed promise, I don't think the designers were to blame. I don't quite appreciate their own brand but their Courreges was in many ways similar to what Di Felice did, although at a time when the market wasn't ready for it yet - I kinda wished they kept the re-branding introduced during the Coperni years as it looks way more modern and timely than the one Di Felice returned to (including the old logo that ruins all their outerwear to me...).

I liked their Courreges but there’s something more organic and real about Di Felice’s work.
The fact that it’s less futuristic can allow him to take the aesthetic of Courreges at another level in the same way that Dossena managed to make Paco Rabanne exist beyond the glorious 60’s days.

When I see Di Felice’s Courreges, i can see it worn by somebody in 10 years…