Derercuny F/W 07.08 Milan

[peacelover142002]

MILAN, February 21, 2007 – It’s not often that a new label emerges on the Milan runways, so it was with some enthusiasm that a small audience assembled for designer Mina Lee’s debut Derercuny show. Until now, the small collection of prettily embellished clothes that glance at the trends rather than follow them blindly had been seen by appointment only. Chalk it up to first-timer jitters and inexperience, but some of the pieces (a gold jacquard matelassé skirt worn with a lamé blouse, and the bubble shapes) hinted perhaps too much at Prada and Marni. More discouraging, a pair of long tiered dresses in woven cashmere with an overly stiff drape just didn’t do enough to flatter the models.

Those issues aside, there were enough good things here to bring the crowd back again next time—from the sculptural black coats, including the requisite cape, to the elegant cocktail dresses with hand-constructed bows at the bust. The young company can be thankful, too, that it has been backed by Samsung. Judging by the A-list models booked, the expensive-looking fabrications, and the over-the-knee flat boots, Derercuny has pockets deep enough to give its talent time to work out the kinks.

– Nicole Phelps

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[peacelover142002]

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[peacelover142002]

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[peacelover142002]

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[peacelover142002]

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[peacelover142002]

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[peacelover142002]

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[peacelover142002]

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Some of the pieces seem a bit amateur-ish. A lot of the coats are nice though, and I think this label has potential.

 

[Whitelinen]

I like the coats, but that's all. I think I am getting bored of black.

 

[Trista]

I second that. Black has bored me to tears but I love the gold coat.

 

[Dustcakeboy]

Yeah, the colour pieces are much more exciting, were all the modelz told to scowl ferociously before they walked?

 

[kezme44]

too much black but some really nice coats though. the boots are also interesting.

 

[crepebacksatin]

the only thing that stands out to me is the first dress in post #4... i'd wear it in a heartbeat. otherwise, not so interesting.

 

[LibertyRose]

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This look is so Marni. Sometimes I wonder when the auspicious moment for a designer to launch his or her own label would be. A lot people have talent or some interesting vision, but their aesthetics simply don't stand out in the market. Oliver Theykens and Nicholas Ghesquiere don't have a namesake line, yet Peter Som does. I mean, aside from personal satisfaction, why make something so similar to an established label?

I don't dislike the collection. In fact, I find the presentation watchable. But I can't help but think she could benefit from being the second-in-command for someone stronger a little longer before she steps out on her own.