Designer or Dressmaker?

[ToniOrtega]

This may be a stupid question, but noticing that NYFW is always criticized for lacking in creativity (at least compared to London, Milan, and Paris), what separates the people who churn out outrageous and unique aesthetics, to those who offer basics but of good quality? In other words...

What constitutes someone as a designer from a dressmaker?

Allow me to use Elie Saab as an example. A common criticism to him, especially on his haute couture, is that his collections are always the same: the usual array of red carpet gowns and dresses. While his craftsmanship and skills are unquestionable, what separates him from the usual dressmaker (aside from skill) if his designs are relatively the same?

 

[brooksie]

For me, a designer and a dressmaker are the same thing. Basically it a matter of individual aesthetics...what sort of dress designer A makes vs designer B is about their personal vision, NOT the process of making clothes.

 

[BetteT]

Hmmm ... good topic.
Consulting Merriam Webster ... which is one of the major authorities for the English language here's what they say, in the simplest form >

Source: Merriam-Webster's Learner's Dictionary

Simple Definition of dressmaker
: a person who makes dresses and other clothes as a job


Full Definition of dressmaker
: one that makes dresses



Simple Definition of designer
: a person who plans how something new will look and be made : a person who creates and often produces a new product, style, etc.

Full Definition of designer
: one that designs: as
a : one who creates and often executes plans for a project or structure <urban designers> <a theater set designer>
b : one that creates and manufactures a new product style or design; especially : one who designs and manufactures high-fashion clothing <the designer's new fall line>

So I would say that its "dressmaking" when he or she follows a design or pattern, made by someone else. If there is any creating, or using existing details in a slightly different way than previously used, then the garment being "designed".

Of course ... some "designers" are not very original, as you pointed out. They will often copy what they have done previously ... but I would say that they are still not a "dressmaker". In fact, most working designers have dressmakers (and other crafts people, such as lace makers, beaders, embroiderers, etc.) who work for or under them . It is these people who actually "make the dress" based on the designer's specifications, drawing and patterns.

 

[Lola701]

For me, a dressmaker is someone who is providing a service when a designer is actually almost a "dictator".
Alaia for example before launching his own brand in the late 70's-early 80's was making dresses for the women of the haute bourgeoisie in Paris. He was making dresses based on their taste and their needs.

As a designer, i think the vision is very important. They are responding to their needs rather than those of the clientele. Eventually, the designer finds success when both needs met.

What you said about Elie Saab is interesting because IMO, he is a fashion designer but also a dressmaker. His couture is not at all challenging for the clientele because the tastes met and he doesn't want to lose the bread and butter of his business.

Redcarpet custom clothes are much more about providing a service (dressmaking) than being commited to your vision.

Nice discussion.

 

[Phuel]

The best designers are dressmakers, tailors, artists, graphic designers, surgeons, inquisitors, provocateurs and visionaries. They have a strong point of view; taking their influences not just from the history of fashion, but from history and culture. The best of them, to borrow an old slogan on a Junior Gaultier shirt-- thrills the heart. That’s my measure of a designer.

I take my clothes to a great tailor, not just to have them refitted just right on me, but to alter the design to my specifications. He’s a great tailor and dressmaker. He’s not a designer, because as Lola points out, I’m the one dictating the design— not him.

Many “designers" are simply glorified dressmakers; copying what others are doing from collection to collection— never developing their own point of view, and with nothing to contribute to the fashion vocabulary. And as forgettable as Eli Saab’s designs are, he’s always sticking to a very specific aesthetic that’s become identifiable as his style. I have no idea the quality nor discipline of his work, but he is a designer by right.

 

[AnaD]

You can call Elie Saab a designer and a dressmaker, since despite his gowns all looking the same he designs his embellishment to be unique every season. It's not always apparent when viewed from afar but it shows when watching his designs up close. Basically I've always seen him as one who designs patterns and then fits them onto blank shapes that he knows his clients will approve of.